Ridley Auto Glide TT - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Question moved from Cars and Trucks. This says never jump the battery. It also says to loop the wires together so they don't get mixed up and to check they are tight. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSblhcFnuFo More here https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Ridley+Auto+Glide+won%27t+start ..

Look for overheating ignition components. Charging system would have nothing to do with this condition. Test to see if you have spark during the time that the unit will not run....

You probably need to rebuild the fuel petcock, if parts are available. If the fuel petcock is only sold as an assembly you may have to replace the assembly. If it is a vacuum petcock, you may just have a cracked or broken vacuum line.

If you push the starter button and the solenoid clicks, the button is good. Take a wire and jump the two posts on the solenoid or touch the two cables together. If your starter works, then you need a new solenoid. If you hold the starter button and tap on the starter with a plastic hammer and the starter works you need new starter brushes. Anything else wrong with the starter and you need to replace the starter assembly , unless the manufacturer sells replacement parts so you can repair the starter. most manufacturers only sell replacement starter brushes.

this time there was alot of smoke coming from under the seat. I found the Start Mod had a melt down. Now I'm still waiting for part to come. Has anybody had a similar issue? The bike is an'06 TT with only 710 miles. I bought it used with 660 mile on it.Let me start by saying that someone is not getting the the battery terminals tight to begin with. These are just bolts not Ridley bolts and should be tightened as you would tighten any bolt. If you find that bolts are continually getting lose there is a product called Loc-tite that can be applied to the threads to prevent loosening. The smoke is a different matter. Generally when this happens we find aftermarket lighting or changes in the original wiring. You now need to see a mechanic,

the engine dies due to (what seems to be) the clutch not fully releasing. When the engine is started it is OK. The driver clutch has about 2500 miles on it since new last summer and has been lubricated within the last 1000 miles. This doesn't happen all the time only once in a while. Any ideas??? The problem is in the drive clutch. It needs to be checked out. Sounds like a lose bushing in one or more of the torque pins holes.,,,

I don't know of a green liquid in the motorcycle but there are directions for servicing your transmission on the Ridley Owners Club website. There are also directions for servicing your motorcycle. Check it out: http://www.auto-glide.com/

front caliper is cool to the touch. Bike has about 2000 miles on it. I looked on the website and was floored by the price of a new caliper. Wondering what my options are.Sounds like a brake pedal adjustment. You should call our tech line for help with the adjustment procedure,

wondered if the tool bag might interfere with the natural cooling of the engine. I didn't know and thought I would ask. I've got it in such a spot that the leather doesn't come in contact with the exhaust pipe so I got that item covered.I can't imagine that that would effect the cooling.,,

Made to measure, custom plastic windscreens https://www.google.com/search?q=motorcycle+windshield+mde+to+measure ..

There should be

carb clean rebuild or replace and or needs tune up --

There are 2 fuses under the seat thats about it google the owners manual its available :)

Doesn't sound like the bike is charging your battery. Check the voltage regulator and the stator.

u cant tighten it, you'll have to replace it if there is over 1" of play. My guess is it wasnt tracking straight. U may need to shim the engine sproket so the belt trachs slightly away from the block
and - good luck

FYI, the flywheel is the problem why its not charging the battery. If you can re attach the magnets you won't spend at all for a new flywheel.

In my limited experience the handlebar wiring usually can't be unplugged but has to be disconnected from the handlebar controls and unthreaded from the handlebar.