Puma Runner 50 Black Soul - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals


when you crossed the wires you prob. blew the fuse it should be a fuse on the pos battery wire there.on one of the wires from pos side coming off. replace fuse it should start. hope this helps

2010 Puma Apollo... | 184 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Richard for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Fuel+line+routing+Puma+Juliet+150&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj25I_hu5DiAhUEyFkKHXV6AboQsAR6BAgIEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i68u1sU5scI
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
https://www.scooterdynasty.com/juliet1504tac-2.aspx
http://www.ssrmotorsports.com/store/ownersmanual/scooter/Gensen%20150.pdf

Puma Motorcycles | 18 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Starter+clicks+Puma+Romeo+150&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj5oY265JzlAhWitVkKHYlGD_0QsAR6BAgGEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAqhEmx8dFM
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
https://www.scooterdynasty.com/romeo1504tac-2.aspx
https://absolutelyscooters.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf

Puma Motorcycles | 351 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Sindri for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected] Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.1130cc.com/threads/fork-oil.105638/
http://www.mediafire.com/file/uwq02sfdx8kv37v/2006_Harley_V-Rod_Service_Manual.zip/file
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
https://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/vrsca-v-rod-2006-owners-manual-66484
https://www.6ya.com/

Motorcycles | 127 views | 1 helpful votes


The CDI is not easy to diagnose because the observable symptoms of a faulty CDI box can lead to different directions. Sometimes, a bad CDI does not cause sparks at all. Again, when a CDI box is about to go bad, it can lead to misfires, issues with starting, rough running or even stall the motor.
https://www.hotstreetscooters.com/how-do-i-know-when-my-cdi-is-bad/

Motorcycles | 208 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Barry for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.r125forum.com/threads/error-code-list.8660/
https://www.raptorforum.com/threads/blinking-engine-light-codes.65179/
https://www.scribd.com/doc/202351160/Yamaha-Wr125-Service-Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611329/Yamaha-Wr125r.html

Motorcycles | 45 views | 0 helpful votes


You might need a workshop manual for this one. If you are in ANY doubt at all, PAY A MECHANIC TO DO IT. The Cam sprockets and the Crank sprocket will have set markings on them. These will line up with matching markings on the engine block.
**NOTE** I am NOT familiar with this Particular engine.**
Generally CAM marks are usually at the 3 o'clock, (exhaust), and 9 o'clock, (intake), positions NOT TDC!!
The CRANK marks are usually at the 12 o'clock position, known as TDC. I think your engine has a 'notch' on the crank pulley and a raised line mark on the engine block.

Motorcycles | 370 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Helen you need to repost your question under the Lawn Chair category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | 92 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Mike before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. The following is a list of usual suspects that will cause your bike not to turn over.
1. Ignition Switch is in the "OFF" position.
2. Ignition Switch is faulty.
3. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
4. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
5. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
6. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
7. FOB battery low or dead.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Faulty starter button.
10. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
12. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
13. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
14. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
15. Faulty ignition relay.
16. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
17. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.volusiariders.com/threads/2005-c50-wont-turn-over-found-the-problem.199323/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAib7fhsOrk
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1000591/Suzuki-Vl1500.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Motorcycles | 25 views | 0 helpful votes


broken ignition wire on the start circuit. ON any unit when you are in the run position you have a resistor ed wire that runs the system
when in start you have a circuit that is not resister-ed so that you get full voltage to the system for starting to compensate for the voltage drop when the starter is engaged . If there is no power in the start ignition system , then there is either a break in that wire or a faulty ignition/ start switch

Motorcycles | 30 views | 0 helpful votes


Google or library has similar text. What is the problm w bike

Motorcycles | 24 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, JJ you need to repost your question under the Ninja Blender category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | 27 views | 0 helpful votes


I think you have upset the anti-theft security system. In a car system, after fully depleting residual current in the system, you put the key into the ignition lock and then connect the positive lead, and then quickly, connect the negative lead. Leave 15 minutes to fully reset and register.

Rider'sManual R 1200 R, R 1200 R Classic - BMW Motorrad

manuals.bmw-motorrad.com > PDF > R_0400_RM_0112_R1200R_01

PDF R 1200 R, R 1200 R Classic. The Ultimate ... Anti-theft alarm telltale light ... reset. Resetting average values with on-board computerOE. Switch on the ignition. Missing: 2012 ‎' Must include: 2012

Motorcycles | 59 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Tony for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.faxvin.com/vin-decoder/yamaha
https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Yamaha
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/book_motorcycle_identification.pdf

Motorcycles | 21 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Mark it should be noted that the reasons your FI light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or may not and run great or sputter, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying the bike down/crashes, rain storms/bike washings just before FI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed. The newer the bike the more sensitive the ECM becomes and will not let the bike start when aftermarket accessories have been installed without being reprogrammed. That being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. A discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty safety switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads, etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
6. Installation of aftermarket accessories ie. exhaust systems, mufflers, air cleaners, fuel tuners, electrical component, etc.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=1383.0
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/fi-code-flashing.15091/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1004329/Suzuki-Gsx1400.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/905098/Suzuki-Gsx1400.html

Motorcycles | 29 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Danie, there are a few things you need to look at when trying to troubleshoot your scooter for power loss. How does it sound? If you run it wide open throttle when warmed up, does it max out? or stutter? is it loud, or very quiet the symptoms can help decide what to try? When you are going full throttle, the engine should get to a high RPM and sound smooth here are a few things you should look for:
1. Plugging air intake- will start well cold, but be hard to warm up and not reach top speed. The engine will stutter at high RPM.
2. Open-air intake- to much air or air cleaner is disconnected- the engine will not have power at high speed, make vacuum cleaner sound. Acts like it's running out of gas. ( sounds almost the same as a dirty carburetor.)
3. Plugged exhaust port the engine sounds and runs good, but has no power. Slow to take off. Same as a plugged muffler, but if the muffler is plugged you get a very smooth exhaust note at idle. Humming instead of pop pop pop pop.
4. Fouled spark plug- backfire. If you get backfire, pretty good chance the plug is fouled.
5. On models with belts, the gear ratio drops as the belt gets thinner (most Hondas have belts).
6. On a moped with high mileage, the belt will cause slow top end speed if worn thin.
7. If you have a bike with chain drive in an oil bath and you "OVERFILL" the oil amount in the chaincase, that makes for slow running as it requires too much power to turn the oil.
8. If your engine does not rev up well and stutters or sputters, like when it is cold with the choke on, the engine is running too rich. (too much fuel).
9. Is the air filter soaked with oil? Clean with soap and water!
10. Is the air opening in the airbox plugged? Very common for a spider or mud wasp to build a nest in one of the intake holes.
11. On some scooters it is common to get a leaf stuck in the intake port of the airbox, causing a 10mph drop in top speed.
12. Don't try to adjust the screws on the side of the carb to get lean or rich, as they are for the idle circuit only.
13. The idle air screw should be about 1 1/2 turns out on most scooters.
14. Say your engine revs but kind of wheezes or acts like, it runs out of gas it is common to have a buildup of hard carbon on the inside diameter of the hole in the main and pilot jets, and it must be carefully removed.
15. If your moped does not idle the pilot jet is likely plugged.
16. Anytime a moped has not been used for 1 year or more, and still has the same fuel in it, good chance you will need to clean the jets.
17. The poor quality of today's gasoline has made this a rather steady bet.
18. Mopeds are affected more than most vehicles because the small size hole the jet requires is easily plugged, even by thick oily fuel, or water.
19. Drain your carb once in a while! Most have a screw of some type at the bottom (where the drain needs to be) of the carb.
20. Make sure the air boot to the airbox is not on wrong, kinked, hard and shrunken.
21. Don't oil the air filter if you got the stutters.
22. On some scooters, you can leave one snap loose on the airbox lid to allow it to slightly open, to get full rpm.
23. "WARNING" too much lean out on the gas, and since the fuel cools the piston, the piston can "MELT"
24. Still slow? Check the muffler tip. Make sure no carbon buildup is inside the tip, stick something in as far as it will go.
25. Common on some scooters to have the tip bent over on a curb, then carbon up solid. common of all types to have the whole muffler plug.
26. When you have the muffler off, is it heavy?
27. Can you get the baffle out to see if the holes are plugged?
28. Check the exhaust port on the cylinder.
29. If you can't see all the way into the piston, use a mirror and a flashlight to make sure the piston is ok and the port is not plugged where it meets the piston.
30. Common on all models to plug here, Just scrape it out so the hole is full size again.
31. Don't worry about the small film on the inside of the port, I am talking about a very thin film that forms a wall in the exhaust port right next to the piston.
32. A 1 1/2 inch hole can be reduced to the size of a pea...... With a thin film of carbon.
33. If you can see the piston ok, it's not the problem.
34. If you are in doubt regarding your exhaust pipe being plugged, put your hand behind the muffler to see how much pressure is expelled. compare to another bike.
35. It should blow pretty good and have a distinct pop pop pop pop sound while idling, not a steady humming.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://bike-mania.co.za/big-boy-scooters/
https://gokartsusa.com/GY6-180cc-Power-Upgrade-Kit-1.aspx
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
https://www.scooterdynasty.com/stockoempartsforscooters-27.aspx
https://absolutelyscooters.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf

Motorcycles | 81 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Kelly you need to repost your question under the Trailer category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | 25 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Bernard and the usual suspects are:
1. The front-wheel or transmission drive unit has failed.
2. The drive unit tab is not properly indexed.
3. Broken speedometer cable.
4. The speedometer has failed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vtxcafe.com/threads/speedometer-not-working.61030/
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/396422/My+speedometer+is+not+working.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/722750/Honda-Vtx1300s.html#product-VTX1300R
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.vtxcafe.com/threads/2005-vtx-1300r-owners-manual.57763/

Motorcycles | 24 views | 0 helpful votes

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