20 Most Recent 2007 Yamaha Ybr 125 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

side stand warning sensor, bypass it or service it

cor that reminds me of old days when we used to disconnect our front break light switch so the police could not see you breaking when your speedingany way try looking under your front break lever you will find two wires going into it just where the switch gear clamp is failing that probably the problem lies inside your headlight

Seat should remove by using key which releases a latch. As for an alarm I would recommend a manually installed bike immobilizer instead. Cheaper and more effective unless all you are looking for is a way to make noise.

If the stator needs to be replaced, get a new one. Rewinding would cost you much more. Have a different shop check the problem. Stators usually last the life of the bike.

1 service 600 miles 2 service 500 or 1 year and ones a year there after that hope this helps

It should be 0.07-0.08 mm.Cheers

Your alternator is generating 14.1 Vdc to chargwe your battery and when the bike is running it will also do the same except the voltage regulator will keep it stabilized to around 12.2 -12.4 Vdc. In saying that check your voltage regulator function. Cheers

Are you sure the 2008 YBR even has a carburettor ? I thought the YBR went fuel injection from 2007.

If you can't afford to have it looked at by a garage, you need to buy the Haynes manual. They're very easy bikes to work on, and you'll just have to learn by doing.

Could be dirty fuel, dirty lines/carb/throttle body - check your fuel filter if you have one, and no harm to clean out the tank anyway.

Could be the plug is knackered - check the gap, and that it isn't messed up and sooty, could be the plug cap.

Could be the electrical side - start the bike on the stand, and give the big bunch of wires in the rubber jacket (behind the headlight) a good wiggle around. I had a problem there with a connector block melting, and the bike wouldn't go at all til I found it.

With the bike idling, spray something like WD40 or carburettor cleaner all around fuel intake side, esp where there are any rubber sleeves etc - if the bike revs pick up, you know there's an air leak somewhere. That would cause rough running at idle.

You need the manual ! Best of luck.

Generally there is a screw or screws on the back or somewhere to tighten the chain within a certain inch wise range.

take the cylinder head off take off the 2 caps at the top of the cylinder head . there you should see the top of the tappit and an ajustment bolt.get a feeler gauge you then need 2 open a vaulve by turning the cam sprocket ( remove rocker cover held in by 2 wratchet bolts left side top of engin) once valve is open ajust gap by turnig the bolt nt5ill u reach the right spacings sorry carnt tell you the spaceings dont know myself ask jeves of somwere like that should tell you though good luck is fun trust me

It is likely that your noise is coming from either the cam chain or rocker arms. As the engine gets hot, the oil gets alot thinner-especially if the oil is in need of change. This would explain the extra noise when it is hot.

First thing to check is the valve clearances to be sure they are within tolerance.(Intake:003-.004" an exhaust:.004-.006") Be sure to check the valves on a cool engine only.

If they are in spec, and you've got fresh oil in it, and the noise continues-next is the cam chain. You can check this by removing the valve cover from the top of the engine. You have an automatic adjuster on this bike, so there should be no slack in the cam chain. Specifically, check for slack on the rear side. If there is slack, you'll need to get your cam chain replaced.

If you've verified all the above, next thing to suspect is piston noise- usually from wear on the piston skirt. This can be verified by having a leakdown test done on the engine, since an engine with piston noise will also show alot of leaking past the rings. I hope this helps you out.

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I never heard of a brown plug. It should be black, blue, crud, or oil. The mix will turn the plug blue from being too rich, burning hot, and of course the black from soot or carbon, from being lean, Then the oil you don't want to see, but changing plugs is a must. I get great performance from Autolite plugs in my bike. 10 times better than champions. Clean the air filter while you are at it. Hope this helps.

Check the speedo cabel for damige and reconect both ends. i had this same problem and found that the cabel had sliped out of the connection on the back of the speedo. Hope this helps

Did you replace the fuse with exactly the same fuse? There are slow AND quick blow fuses, BIG difference.

yes it does! if this helps, please let me know and give me a positive rating so that I can continue to help more people!

Check the front and rear wheel/tire alignment by a professional, incorrect wheel alignment and drag created by wind on high speeds effects the handing of the bike. Have a look at it and comment if you need more advice, and please don't forget to rate the question if it was helpful, it effects my general rating, thanks!

They are o.k like most bikes of this class,just change the engine oil every 3000 miles ,They handle fairly well for what they are and go about 65 mph. If you want something more sporty go for the Honda CBR 125 very solid bike .Check adds to get feel for price ,and avoid a learner abused dog.

to be fair getting more power from this engine is impossible. save your money for a bigger bike. we all make the mistake of tuning our small bikes at great cost and little result. but do check the air filter is clean ,all seals are in place .new spark plug and no holes in the exhaust.the valve clearances get loose on these bikes but is very cheap to service at a dealer. finally if your rear sprocket is very big 50 teeth or more then going down by a few teeth about 2-4 but no more,may increase speed but reduce punch.-check local law when doing this as it may be illegal- I think your bike will do about 65 mph from new.

your bike isnt very old so i would say you have a loose wire or carb blockage try gently wiggling the wires around the kill switch and ignition as a friend tryes to start the bike if this fails, take the tank off and check the earth connections from the coil to frame clean any rust and check thick ht lead to ht cap and plug fof good connections. replace spark plug . allso check side stand cut out switch by bypassing it by joining wires together for test. finally it may be dirt in the float bowl underneath the carb drain petrol with brass screw.

The only way to get it back to new is to have the chrome stripped off in an acid bath & have it re-plated. Many chroming companies will not strip used exhausts as they ruin the acid, but some will.
Otherwise clean with an abrasive metal cleaner, not too much as it wears the chrome away, & spray often with WD40 or equivalent.


Good Luck
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