20 Most Recent 2004 Yamaha V Star Classic - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The v twins do have some valve train noise it is a charistic of the v twins.

try the fuel shut off turn it to reserve this might work my wifes virago did the same thing and now will only run when it is tuned on reserve.

you may have plugged your mufflar remove and run off the header should be a marked improvement if so replace the mufflar

That is the problem,You need to clean the carb jets and get the gum out of the bowl.

the best advise i could give you is don't ride a yamaha be a real man ride a harley!!!!

As far as your clutch adjustment ,I can't help you but the fact that the bike is older you might want to try removing the exhaust pipe at the baffel end and see if there is a difference in power ,if there is clean out your baffel and your good to go. hope this helps
jerry

the stuff it came with is just fine. your bike shop where you buy the oil from will give you what they deem best for your bike, oil weights depend on where you are and ride. a K&N airfilter will help it breath better than the standard one but it wont do much for the performance. i have jardine pipes on mine i believe it was re-jetted when the previous owner installed them but i run a standard air cleaner and all is fine.

Yes very easy to do...

0.003 - 0.005 in. intake
0.005 - 0.007 in. exhaust

yamaha v-star 650....

change the coil you may not think it got hot but sometimes a coil can overheat on the inside just enough to break the copper winding. when riding hard slow down for a couple of miles to give everything time to get back to normal temps before shutting it off

Your battery is too low. Take out the battery and have it tested.

try cleaning your fuel tank vents. sounds like it is clogged and causing the fuel to vapor lock.

Im guessing here this is the first startup since garaging over winter months. Check your carb jets, if clean.........drain the gas and put fresh gas in its place.

Hi ...... Sounds like float levels are set too high or debris in float chamber. Switch petrol off from/at tank and drain fuel from float bowls, if you use the cap off a paint can etc you can catch it and look at it to see if any water or debris present. Retighten drain screws, switch petrol back on and see if it still overflows.

There is a clutch linkage kit you can purchase which will take the "**** " out. It is mounts between the end of the clutch cable and the transmission. I have one on my bike and love it. Easy to adjust and customizes the clutch to you.

Charles

take a look at this page (top portion) to see if it provides enough info to take the basket apart on this bike.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/atlanticcycleandpower/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=450&B=14

i'm assuming you already have the oil drained and side cover removed.

pull the breather cover off and see how it does it sounds like you need more air going in when you go up on jet size it will change the air fuel ratio thus making it lack power or just run absolutely funny

Sir,
The bike you are working on has a couple of way to adjust the clutch. Obviously the adjuster on the handlebars would be the first place but actually there is an adjustment on the other end of the cable that has a locking nut on it. You will need to loosen the nut that locks the cable and there should be another nut on the other side of the cable that you can tighten. As you tighten the nut it will take the free play out of the cable.
There is another adjustment on the inside of the clutch cover, it is on the clutch hub. The adjustment for this would be done by removing the clutch cover to access the clutch hub. On the outside of the hub there is an 12mm nut locking down a 6mm adjusting screw, the screw is adcually the first source of adjustment on initial assembly.
Let me give you the breakdown of how this works, your clutch mechanism has the hub adjustment, a ball, and a push rod that goes through the primary output shaft of the transmission. Then it goes to the actuating arm where your cable connects. The reason I'm telling you this is because often the ball in between the hub adjuster screw and the clutch push rod becomes welded to the push rod or it will actually start to come apart. When this happens your clutch adjustment goes away and you have no adjustment available through the cable or the clutch lever. Should this be your case I would recommend you take the clutch cover off, (be sure to drain the oil first), remove the six 10mm nuts securing the clutch hub, (this also holds the clutch springs in place), then you will have access to the push rod and the ball. You may have to tilt the bike over on the right side to get the push rod and ball to come out.
When you go to reassemble the clutch make sure all the adjusters are loose so you can adjust the clutch in the following sequence:

1. Assemble the hub and secure the springs. You want to adjust the hub screw first. Gently turn the screw in until it contacts the ball, then back out the screw 1/4 turn. This prevents the ball from welding it's self to the ball and plunger.
2. Install the clutch cover and the clutch cable all the way to the lever. You will first adjust the free play out at the base of the cable so you have maximum adjustment at the lever.
   
3. Adjust the lever so you have 1/4 of free play at the lever.

This will give you a properly adjusted clutch that has lots of adjustment at both the handlebars and at the base of the cable.

Good Luck! This is a DIY job, you wont need to take the bike to the shop if you are able to do any routine maintenance. Should you have to remove the clutch cover you will need to replace the right side, (clutch cover), engine gasket. If you take it apart I would recommend replacing the ball if it has any signs or wear, it will be blotted, this is a very cheap item that can cause much grief.

Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Regards,
RSelvy

when you installe new pipes you lost some back pressure this means you engine is now breathing better and so you need to adjust your carbs by rejetting to a richer jet.

If your 2005 model 650 motorcycle is experiencing a loss of power and struggles to go beyond 50 mph when you reach about 1/4 throttle, there could be several potential reasons for this issue. It's important to identify the underlying problem to resolve the performance concern. Here are some common causes to consider:

1. Fuel System Issues: Insufficient fuel supply or a clogged fuel filter can restrict the flow of fuel to the engine, leading to a loss of power. Check the fuel filter, fuel pump, and ensure the fuel lines are clear and not kinked.
2. Air Intake Blockage: A blocked air filter or a clogged air intake system can limit the amount of air entering the engine, affecting its performance. Clean or replace the air filter as necessary.
3. Carburetor Problems: If your motorcycle is equipped with a carburetor, issues such as a stuck float, clogged jets, or incorrect adjustments can lead to poor performance. Cleaning and tuning the carburetor might be necessary.
4. Ignition System Issues: Faulty spark plugs, ignition coils, or ignition timing problems can result in incomplete combustion, leading to a loss of power. Check and replace any faulty ignition components.
5. Exhaust System Blockage: A restricted exhaust system, such as a clogged or damaged muffler, can impede the flow of exhaust gases, affecting engine performance.
6. Engine Compression: Low engine compression due to worn piston rings or cylinder head gasket leaks can reduce engine power. A compression test can help diagnose this issue.
7. Throttle or Choke Cable Problems: A misadjusted or sticking throttle or choke cable can affect the fuel-air mixture and throttle response. Ensure that the cables are properly adjusted and move freely.
8. Electrical Issues: Faulty sensors, wiring problems, or issues with the electronic control unit (ECU) can impact engine performance. A diagnostic scan might be required to identify electrical problems accurately.
9. Valve Clearance: Incorrect valve clearance can affect engine performance. Ensure the valve clearance is within the manufacturer's specifications.
10. Transmission or Clutch Problems: Issues with the transmission or clutch can result in power loss and limited top speed. Inspect and service the transmission and clutch components.

It's essential to perform a systematic inspection and troubleshooting process to pinpoint the exact cause of the problem. If you are unsure about diagnosing or fixing the issue yourself, it's recommended to seek the assistance of a qualified motorcycle mechanic or dealership. They have the expertise and tools to diagnose and repair the problem effectively.