Top 20 2002 Yamaha Xv 250 Virago S - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Check out distributor and rotor.

you must be more specific about your model. I am not aware of any Yamaha That has a distributor and rotor type ignition such as in an automobile.

I need 2 rubber grommets #4 on your diagram for left side cover for verago 1100. Need some help ordering them ?

The battery needs replacing, when you have choke on, on any bike or car you should never use throttle but your problem is the battery, if you have a multimeter, start your bike, put the meter on Volts, and put black probe on negative, red on positive and you should have a reading higher than 13V, this is telling you your charging system is ok.

Look at the sidewall of both tires. There will be a 'MAX PSI' embossed on the tire. It will probably say Max 45 PSI. At 45psi the bike will ride like a rock. At 15psi it will ride really squirrely. Find a psi at which you feel the bike handles well and rides well. One rider may weigh 125 pounds and the next rider may weigh 300 pounds. The best psi for each rider will be different due to weight. Chances are that 30 to 35 psi will do the trick. A Yamaha dealer should be able to get you a manual. Please take a moment to rate my answer. Thanks.

Try here: http://www.filecrop.com/6377157/index.html

Several different factors can cause the stumble you talk about. It could be one thing or a combination of things. First buy a new pair of spark plugs and a new pair of spark plug caps. You can get NGK brand spark plug caps for about $5 each and they are the same caps Yamaha will charge $28 for. This should address any issues with poor idle or take off from electrical issues.
Next, an air leak or dirty carburetor could be the cause of a bad hesitation. There is a vacuum piston in the carburetor. If the diaphragm is stretched of damaged (cracks or holes) or if the actual sliding surface of the carburetor piston and piston cylinder surface is dirty or sticky you will have acceleration issues. Carefully unscrew the top if the carburetor and remove it noting the order of the spring and sealing o-rings. Gently peel off the diaphragm and pull the piston out. Clean the piston and the carburetor mating surfaces being careful not to get carburetor cleaning solution on the rubber parts. Inspect the rubber diaphragm for damage and replace the assembly if necessary(about $135). Consider removing the carburetor, disassembling it completely and shooting carburetor cleaner through and the jets and main body passageways.
Finally, age may be a factor on the intake manifold . Unbolt the manifold from the heads and carefully inspect the rubber boot that seals the carburetor to the manifold. Replace the manifold if damaged (about $90). When installing the manifold back on to the cycle use NEW o-rings to address any air leak issues between the heads and manifold. Be sure to inspect all the tubes and plastic T fittings for cracks or damage and replace any damaged parts..
Any one of the these items or the combination of all of them is probably the cause of your hesitation.

I'm surprised it started and ran. Most often the fuel system is fouled out to the point it need to be repaired. Okay the problem you are having now is the clutch is seized and with a little luck you can break it free. If the engine starts and revs freely without bog or backfire then here is a way to see if you can loosen it up.

Select a quiet long street or empty parking lot. Start the bike in neutral while sitting in the ridding position and get someone to push you fast enough that you can maintain balance. Pull the clutch in and put it in 1st gear, it'll clunk in hold the cluch in as you are giving it a little gas to maintain a low speed. A low speed where the engine isn't at high revs but still fast enough to keep your balance.

Now here is the part that breaks it free. With the clutch still pulled in crack the throttle and back it off. The bike will leap ahead and brake down when you do this so prepare your self for the lung ahead and the stopping. Don't let the bike get down to a stall speed or it'll just kill the engine and you'll fall off. A few times doing this will **** the clutch free, once free it'll operate as normal.

Remember to keep the clutch pulled to the handle bars as you are doing this.

I had a 350 Honda that would do this to me and it was just a (four letter word) to break it free once free I didn't have anymore problem with it.

Cheers hope that works for you as it did for me and don't fall of the thing ;-)

There are a few safety interlocks on most Yamaha street bikes.
The starter circuit will only operate if:
the bike is in neutral and the neutral light indicates this OR
if the bike is in gear (or neutral light not showing) you must have the clutch pulled in and the sidestand must be up (there is a clutch lever switch and a sidestand switch )
The engine stop switch "kill switch" on right handlebar has to be in the RUN position to allow starter cranking.

That is either the crank case vent tube or the Air Box vent tube. There is a tube like that on most motorcycles. You can attach a small plastic bottle to the end and it will catch the oil that drips out. I have a small bottle on my 2005 Vulcan 800 Drifter. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

Drain any old fuel as it will be no good, take a spark plug out connect plug lead lay the plug on the side of the engine to earth it then push the starter button check to see if there is a spark at the electrode should be a bluey colour,make sure the engine has some compression with both plugs in put the bike in 3rd gear and push slowly should feel compression on both cylinders. hope this helps Pete.

Remove spark plug cap and use a spare plug grounded to engine to see if you have ignition when cranking starter.
If you have spark, try replacing the spark plugs. Also ensure fuel is getting to carb.

Hi, if you don't hear a click then your best bet would be to replace the starter relay. It's a $5 part that goes out often. The relay is what makes that click. When you hit the start button, 12 volts goes to the relay. This tells the relay to switch on. When on, a connection is made between the battery and the starter motor. No click means no connection between starter and battery.

On second thought, before buying a new relay you can test the voltage going to the relay from the start button. If you aren't getting 12V then you have a problem with the wiring. Check the connection at the button. If that is fine, check for broken or smashed wire.

If that doesn't work, I would trace the wire from your start button to your relay and look for a break or a loose connection....

it does not hook up to any thing it is a drain for the air cleaner box, it should lay over the top of the transmission there might evan be a small wire hoop that it slides threw.....HAVE FUN and be careful on that thing !!

It is more likely to be either the Regulatoer/Rectifier or the Magneto coils or pick-up. Your magneto sends a series of pulses at various revs. This is changed and evened out by the Reg/Rec. First step is to check quality of all connections from magneto upwards to all relevent components. IE; ignition coil, CDI unit, Reg/Rec, battery (if applic.). If the bike normally runs with a city light or running light when ignition is on, then check all switches for crossed, pinched or broken wire connections, especially around headstem area. Ideally, a service manual with relevent ohm resistance figures and a multi-meter should lead you to the problem. CDI units, Reg/Rec, Magneto Coils and pulse coils are very expensive as are ignition coils. They will all be affected eventually if the problem is not identified and fixed. Goodluck.

Go to the site below and enter whatever motorcycle you have, they have many manuals for free download.

http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/?r=0

NO.You do not need a new carb.If it has been repaired 3 times,it was not repaired properly on all 3 occasions.OR,there is another problem with the bike.Carbs only have a few parts in them.They are either blocked with gunk or not adjusted properly.Take some time and work out when the bike 1st started to run badly.Then go from there.What did it do? was it a fast or slow breakdown?Hey!Is there water in the fueltank.Small things 1st.Hope this helps

u need a clymer manual-plus the whole bike is explained

hows it goin, check the fuse box, it is under the seat. if no fuses are blown, check the horn and flasher unit/Flasher relay connections. I think you have to separate problems.

Hi and welcome to the site,

Initially, postback the model.

Offhand, on most 2 coil Yamahas, the red/white wire is the IGN +12 while the orange & gray would be the wires from the CDI. The Orange would be for 1 or 1 & 4.

Good luck and thank you for asking.