20 Most Recent 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

hi, You have an electrical switch in the radiator. Unplug the wires from it and hook up an electrical test meter to the switch when it is cold. It should not show any continuity when it is cold. If it does show continuity when cold, you need a new switch.

If it revs well in neutral, you might have a bad kickstand position switch.

I assume you mean low or no power at low RPM? Best place to start is a compression test to make sure the engine is in good condition

Hi, easy is a relative word. For me it is. You need a differential compression tool. It has two gauges and you hook one end to your compressor and the other to your spark plug hole. That piston must be at top dead center on the compression stroke. The second gauge will tell you how much pressure the engine is holding compared to the first gauge that is reading how much pressure the compressor is supplying. If you have a bad valve you will hear air blowing out the intake or the exhaust depending on which one is bad. Or out of the oil fill hole if the rings are bad. Great tool!

Hi, yep that is a low reading. Only one cylinder?

You'll ll need to pull the engine out of the bike then pull the head off the bike. You will then have access to the rings. Why do you think they need to be replaced?

check manufacture specs

Hi, I have a quick question, I was rolling on the hwy going about 89mph an my bike just shut off, wat does tht mean???

no they had limiters from stock,but many owners raised or remved them

The following is for a 2001 model, may be the same on a 2000. Follow your shift linkage from the foot shifter 'up' the linkage rod. Where the linkage rod meets the shift shaft, right beside it you will find a gold colored Knob. Thats the idle adjuster. You will want to loosen the left Mid-fairing to allow you to get your hand behind it to reach the adjuster knob. You dont have to remove it, just loosen the 1/4 turn screws holding it. do not adjust the idle when the engines cold. Have it good and warmed up. When your finished, retighten the 1/4 turn screws, and your finished. Small adjustments, allowing the engine to 'catch-up' work best. Good luck.

The header tank for the coolant is inside the fairing at the front of the bike in the v shaped bit behind the front wheel.

The thing about electronic ignition is the setting cannot change, as there is no points to wear down and alter the timing.
with the exception of the flywheel key breaking or the cam timing jumping teeth, both highly unlikely occurances, as it wouldnt run cold with either of these

hard to start when hot can be flooding or too rich , or possibly an electrical problem, but if it starts cold OK and runs fine, doesnt cut out or misfire as it gets hot, and the only problem is hard hot start. then fuel mixture is likely.
If it will push\roll start when hot, this may eliminate ignition problems.
recheck the valve clearances.
Make sure the air filter is new.
I also find that some moreys upper cylnder lube in the fuel can help, but cant explain why

I think you don't do nothing there ,because this system works mechanically with cables and if you remove the engine will have no power at medium speed.Until it reaches full capacity it will be like when you light it and go with a cold engine

Cylinders are numbered 1-4 as sat on the bike. That means when you are sat astride the bike the number 1 cylinder is on the left (clutch lever side) and number 4 on the right (brake lever/throttle side)

If you have an ohm meter, check the resistance on coil 1 and 4 - across the positive and negative wires and compare that to the coil that feeds 2 and 3. If the resistance is higher on coil 1 and 4 that would cause a week spark and i would suggest changing it. If you don't have a meter, simply connect coil 2 and 3 to the wiring of coil 1 and 4 and turn the bike over and check the spark. if it is a stronger, then your 1 and 4 coil is the problem and will need replacing. Prior to checking all this, make sure that the earth contacts on your coil to bike frame are good and are clean and free of corrosion and the like. Hope this helps

Change your oil pressure sender. It is more common for the sender to go out than the oil pump. But you should never drive with your oil light on. If you are out of oil or have no oil pressure and you keep driving, you will destroy your motor. There fore you want your oil warning light to function correctly. The sender is part # 11 on this diagram. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2000-yamaha-yzf-r1/o/m8953#sch115516

replace starter solinide and check earths etc are clean !

Check to make sure all of your coil wires are plugged in and check your fuses. Make sure all connections in the wiring harness are connected as well. make sure the neutral switch is working as well as the side stand switch. Check the pulser coil as well. If it is fuel injected the bike won't start without these signals working properly. If this doesn't help post more info about your bike in the comments below!