20 Most Recent 1999 Yamaha XJR 1300 Questions & Answers

Then it's probably a dodgy oil sender

If the oil warning light is again coming ON, and remains ON.Then inspect the oil level, but if the oil level is ok, then check oil filter, if the filter is clogged then this will cause oil to get blocked and not reach the engine.-------- If the filter is replaced and very much clean and still the oil light is coming on then oil level sensor needs to be inspected also the oil sending unit circuit needs to be checked.There is something getting shorted and causing the problem.-------- BUT, mostly this oil warning light comes if oil is low or oil filter is dirty/ clogged. -------- The oil level should be between the maximum and minimum level marks. If the level is low, add sufficient oil to raise it to the specified level.----------- To get details from Yamaha XJR 1300 manual.Click this link below:--- http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCMQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fymenvom.nl%2Fmanuals%2FU5EAE2.PDF&ei=actPTqDSFYHtrAfgqeGsAg&usg=AFQjCNE2edFe9tsFtaptxaEBIflIa3mI3g --------- See page number 3-3, then page number 6-7,6-8,6-9 and 6-10 --------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

most likely from the gearlever shaft

See your other enquiry. Its a cartridge type in a housing with a central bolt just above the sidestand pivot.

Find a Yamaha agent and yes the same key fits.

I would check, read, swap out, your electronic ignition module. as this is what it seems to me?

there is one switch under the front brake lever, and another pulled by a spring off the rear brake lever, unhook the wires from each and see which switch is staying on.
It is most often the rear switch that causes trouble and just may need a slight adjustment

its normal,it is the fuel pump sucking fuel to the carbaretta

If, at any point, your bike has sat for more than about a year, the carburetors could have clogged jets. That means that the carbs will have to be disassembled and cleaned.
Otherwise, make sure the choke is operating fully and that there isn't any excess slack, or free play in the choke cable. Take out any excess free play by using the adjuster on the choke cable.

Unfortunatly sounds like a bent selector shaft or worn gear dogs ..,which means large sums of money to get fixed.One option is to skip second and double shift to third,Yeah it's a pain but it"s cheaper but go easy on the clutch, have some revs on the clock before the change.......Chow.

use a camers phone a take a picture of both discs. put pics on computer and compare both images. measure disc diameter and bolt patterns.

You can get a petcock rebuild kit if this is what your fuel tap refers to.

It can be as simple as a slight burr or piece of debris caught in your seal. You can try a 3x5 notecard wrapped around your fork leg and GENTLY work it down past the seal. Also inspect the fork tube closely and if you can see a visible burr remove it with very fine sandpaper or emery cloth.

If you have to remove the fork because it is leaking elsewhere (and you have checked your drainplug) that is rather involved and requires you to suspend the front of the bike to remove the front suspension. How far apart you take it depends on what you have to fix though.