1987 Yamaha FZR 1000 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
Fzr1000 exup valve not working
Can you give a little more details? It could be the actual valve, it could be the cables, it could be the servo, or it could be the wrong computer, or a defective computer.
Fuel leaking from petcock bolts
i know of a mechanic that uses PTFE TEFLON plumbing tape on harley petcocks. my bolts i got with my xvs 650 petcock dont look any special.
a bit of thread lock may do it fo you
Hello
I have replaced the clutch plates,the
Back wheels often move when the lever is pulled in...this is due to hydraulic drag caused by the oil on the clutch plates and is totally normal. You should be able to stop the wheel by hand with the lever in.With the lever out the clutch is fully engaged and the engine will therefore stall with the brake on...As long as the wheel rotation can be stopped by hand with the clutch pulled in it's behaving normally...Rocking the bike in gear is a method that's used to seperate the plates on a clutch that is dragging...usually if it's not been used for a while.
I got a 87 yamaha fz1 and i cant use it because
Have you tried pushing the bike, in neutrol with the engine running, and put it into gear whilst moving, from your thread i cant work out if it is a clutch problem or not, if it is, with the engine turned off, put the bike into gear, pull in the clutch and push the bike the bike will not move because of the cluutch drag, if the clutch is working, it will be slightly difficult to move but it will move without the engine turning over but , other things to consider the wires are connected on the clutch safety switch on the handlebar micro switch ajacent to the clutch lever, also the side stand safety switch, check that the plunger on the switch is not sticking due to hardened grease, dirt rust, etc
I need to tighten my
The first step is to find the tightest part of the chain. Unless it's a brand new chain it will have a tight spot somewhere on it. It's easiest to do this with the bike on a race stand if you have it. Rotate the wheel and observe the lower part of the chain and watch it lift up when you hit tight spots. The spot where the chain lifts highest is the tightest part of the chain. Once you have found this spot, grab the chain on the low side under the swingarm and move it up and down. It should move up and down around 30-35mm or so, or an inch and a bit if you're an imperialist :) If the chain moves more or less than this then it needs to be adjusted.
To adjust the chain, you need to loosen the axle first. Don't take the nut off but it has to be loose enough to undo by hand. Using 2 spanners, unlock the lock nuts on the end of the swingarm and wind the nut in or out until you get the correct amount of chain slack. always do the sprocket side (left side) first, then repeat the same on the other side. Check the chain adjuster marks to make sure that the adjusters are equal on both sides, this will make sure your rear wheel is aligned properly.
Once you have adjusted the chain, tighten the rear axle and check again. The chain slack will change slightly after you tighten the axle, it might go tighter, it might go looser. Depends on the bike. But the chain slack must be correct with the axle tightened. A bit of practise here and you will be able to guess the correct amount before tightening the rear axle.
Once you have the slack set correctly and the axle is tight, make sure to tighten the adjusters. Tighten the front nut first against the swingarm plate so it can't move. Do it tight but not crazy tight. Then holding the first nut so it can't move tighten the locknut against the first nut. Repeat this on both sides.
If you are not quite sure if the chain is right, always err on the side of making it too loose rather than too tight. Running your chain too tight can destroy your output shaft bearing. It's only about $30 or so for a new one but your engine needs to be completely stripped down to replace it, it's not a fun job. I have seen a lot of FZs and FZRs have this problem because people ran chains too tight. If your chain really is too loose then it will start making your gear changes harder to do, that's the sign you need to tighten it.
How do i get a
Sounds like the idle is set too high. Around 900 rpm is good.
These folk may have a manual for you:
http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php
I get mileage of 25km per litre and i wanted to
to improve mileage by not sacrificing too much of its performance, you'll need to have a silent exhaust or better, the stock exhaust, stock jets but better flowing air filter element. Replacing the spark plugs to iridium or platinum types would often have better results since it will surely fire better. Usually, a more silent exhaust would prove more efficient than a louder one.
Hope this helps
Do you have a diagram or drawing that shows how to
This website has pics of the starter and parts lists http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr1000tc-1987_model9276/partslist/... But you can go to a yamaha dealer and purchase a repair manual that will tell you and show you step by step whatever you want to do to the bike.
I hope my advice help you out and do not forget to place a testimonial, voting/rating for my advice please. TY.. Stormi
Not finding what you are looking for?
The therm is under the fill
