20 Most Recent 1987 Yamaha FZR 1000 Questions & Answers


Hi, Blommie73 your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Oct 31, 2018


Hi, Regn for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Jul 15, 2018


Hi, Star_breaker for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your problem. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 22, 2016


Hi, Bryan sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha despair, not for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 22, 2016


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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 22, 2016


Hi, Anonymous you can but why would you want too your battery wont charge for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 22, 2016


Hi, Anonymous sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha despair, not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Valve Adjustment FZR 1000 The FZR Forum
Fzr 1000 valve adjustment part 1
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 16, 2016


Hi, Raymond and the usual suspects are:
1. A severely drained battery.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Hard start Backfires The FZR Forum
FZR1000 exup fuel system help please
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 15, 2016


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
7. Intake air leak.
8. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, O2, and/or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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92 FZR 1000 carb help The FZR Forum
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 15, 2016


Hi, Jimmy sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yahama despair, not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
View topic engine rebuild help
YZF600 Engine disassembly 2nd Gear Rebuild Full tear down
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 15, 2016


Hi, Anonymous sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yahama despair, not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 15, 2016


Hi, Allan try deglazing your rotors with Scotch Brite and your brake pads with a flat belt sander sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yahama despair, not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Clutch Adjustment The FZR Forum
Clutch Bleed
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 15, 2016


Hi, Anonymous sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yahama despair, not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
cam timing The FZR Forum
Yamaha R6 pt 1 CAMSHAFT CRANKSHAFT TIMING
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 15, 2016


Hi, Anonymous sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yahama despair, not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 15, 2016


Hi, Anonymous they don't exist sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yahama despair, not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 14, 2016


Hi, Anonymous sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha despair, not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
View topic crazy turn sugnals
How to install aftermarket turn signals
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 14, 2016


Hi, Anonymous sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha despair, not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Mar 14, 2016


Hi Zafar, I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha but despair not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Nov 12, 2015


Hi, the elements of internal combustion engines are: correct fuel/air ratio, spark at right time, adequate cylinder compression.
There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also have effects on performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.
Carb Cleaning 101 Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o'rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.
Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.
Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.
Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.
Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).
Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below...
Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.
Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.
Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).
Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.
Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve's spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve's tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.
Choke Plungers: It is common for Mikuni slide carburetors to have indented or hardened choke plunger pads. If the pads are worn, indented or hardened with age, then the idle of your bike will vary wildly as the pads no longer seal well.
Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.
Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or verneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It's a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

1987 Yamaha FZR... | Answered on Sep 19, 2015

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