1983 Yamaha XJ 650 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

remove clutch cover and look if you can see the selecter shift arm isnt bent or broken ! they normally have a hook at each end and as you shift up or down it moves the selecter barrel ! they do bend/wear/snap !

Is it just one loud clunk when you press the starter, or is it a noise that continues until you release the starter button? If it is continuous, that might be the starter clutch. Unfortunately, a look at the service manual shows that the engine case must be split to access the starter clutch (huge job, engine must be removed from the bike and turned upside down.)

if the problem drain plug is faulty, you need to replace go www.advanceautoparts.com and get a new oneGod bless you

return the idle screws on both carbs all the way in. Then turn them out by around 2 to 2 and 1/4 turns make sure they';re both the same adjustment :) If you can get one, a carb balancer will help you out big time :)

you need to unbolt all of the nuts and bolts holding the wheel in place if your pulling the whole wheel. the axle is held on by a nut on the left side, and on the right it slides through the frame, and there a a bolt at that hole that requires an allen wrench to loosen it. after you loosen that, thread the nut just slightly on the left, lightly tap it through to the right side, and you should be able to slide it on out. but its recommendable to pull the whole wheel, might be a challenge on your other components if you dont

had the same problem when I changed my engine. turned out to be wires broken for the distributer. the distributor cover is on the lower front on the left of the engine, with wires coming out of it. check that, also make sure the bike is in time and dist. magnets are good

it should be about 2.5 quarts. there is a sight glass at the bottom right hand side of the motor. u need to put the bike on the center stand to level it, then fill it until u see the oil reach the top notch

follow the wires to the side stand there should be 2 wires disconnect 1 wire either by the little plug or by cutting wire

have a look in the headlight as all the wiring is usually at the back there , you could have a loose connection .
Just unscrew the headlight and have a look through all the wires and make sure all connections are ok .

Have you changed the oil and cleaned the air filter, after the fuel tap problem.
fuel in the oil can cause this symptom. the fuel ends up in the sump when the taps fail as yours did
also check choke is not stuck open, and battery is in good condition

You should get an owner's manual for the bike. The oil capacity is stamped on the clutch cover - I believe it's 2.5L. You can also use the sight glass (bottom of clutch cover) to verify, but the oil level must be checked when the bike is level on the center stand, engine off.

I think what you are looking at is the crankcase vent line.....the blowby gases from the engine flow into the airbox to be burnt with the incoming air.
Have a close look at the oil level in the crankcase....Yamaha usually has an oil window ....down low on the side of the crankcase....with the bike warmed up and shut down a few minutes on the centerstand...the oil level should be about half way in the glass.....overfilling the crankcase will cause the oil carryover situation you describe.

I had the same problem before when I got my bike. I was trying to start the bike and always giving throttle. I figured just start with choke on and it starts (do not give any throttle).

Probably your starter button is the problem. On a lot of motorcycle the starter button is a two position switch. Push the button halfway in the headlight turns off. Push it all the way in and the solenoid engages the starter. This is to send more power to the starter motor. Try cleaning the button . If that does not work you may have to replace the switch assembly (the button is usually not sold separately).

definitla a fuel problem, check carb mounts for cracks, next step is to rebuild cabs

ur ignition is failin somewhere-u may not hav rite heatrange plugs--inspec plug cable for wear or test it for conduction--coil may need test also--harness wear with age and things get hot slowing operation

Oil Capacity each fork 286+/-4cm cubed {10.1+/-0.14Impoz,9.67+/-0.14US oz}
please visit this site for more info --> http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=18730/highlight=seca+fork+rebuild.html

When you remount the switch after inspecting make sure you're not jamming the back of switch against something.When you turn key you're actually pushing down,that gets connection "bar" room to slide from one connection to another.With no clearance the "bar" can't move.