20 Most Recent 1983 Yamaha XJ 650 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

ur ignition is failin somewhere-u may not hav rite heatrange plugs--inspec plug cable for wear or test it for conduction--coil may need test also--harness wear with age and things get hot slowing operation

Oil Capacity each fork 286+/-4cm cubed {10.1+/-0.14Impoz,9.67+/-0.14US oz}
please visit this site for more info --> http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=18730/highlight=seca+fork+rebuild.html

When you remount the switch after inspecting make sure you're not jamming the back of switch against something.When you turn key you're actually pushing down,that gets connection "bar" room to slide from one connection to another.With no clearance the "bar" can't move.

Do you mean can not start the motor? Have try to press it down first then turn it?

With the bike on the main stand, Take out the rear axle and disconnect the rear brake linkage, on removal of the spacer on the axle the wheel can move away from the drive hub enough to disengage the drive spline and should wheel straight out the back of the bike.
Don't be concerned, these are less hassle than a chain drive to do!

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/
Take look here if you want a hard copy call the guys at C.C. Motorsports Corpus Christi Tx
They can hook you up with the goodies you need
They have a seca turbo in the shop really cool bikes
Mark

try and find one on ebay (Parts&Accesories)

Check the battery should be 12V or more , Then check the coils the connections are under the gas tank make sure they are securely connected.
What kind of fuse box do you have? The glass fuses? Or did you replace the fuse box. If it is the glass fuses you need to replace with a new fuse box.
Check the kill switch and the side stand switch.
Check the coils too..

rubber band is secured to battery box w/hook.release rubber band,remove battery cable connections lift/slide battery out.

• Do you see spark? If not, check the side stand kill switch. It kills the engine so that you don’t start out with the side stand down. If broken or out of adjustment, it would kill the spark. Check for a broken wire at the side stand switch and coupler. Try moving the side stand kill switch by hand. If that doesn’t work then wire a jumper around the switch to bypass it.
• Is the handlebar kill switch on? Is it shorted out?
• Are you getting power to the coils?
• Check the fuses. How good is the battery? Try a jump start from your car battery.
• Check the operation of the ignition switch and all kill switches with a volt ohmmeter. Check the wiring harness. Did a wire come unplugged? Are all wires clean and with solid connections? Any abraded or pinched wires? Is the bike in neutral and the neutral light is lit up? If no neutral light, check the neutral switch and neutral switch wire on center or side casing. If still no spark, get CDI system and coils checked at the dealers shop.

you might check to see if the carbs were syncronized. They sell a tool for this, or take it to a shop for this to be done. It might also be a clogged jet.

this may help,it doesnt sound like the clutch is out of adjustment,it sounds like the clutch plates have become stuck together,(this happens quite a bit if the bike has been parked for a while..ie over winter)..to fix it get the bike moving,down a drive way or something..then just bang it into gear,then shift into the highest gear you can by shifting without the clutch,once you have a bit of pace on simply hold the clutch lever in and work the throttle on and off all the while holding the clutch lever in,the clutch should free itself fairly quickly and should be back to normall,a lot of older bikes are good at doing this..hope this helps

could be a few things going on . have you checked the vacuum lines? could have one plugged or collapsed? Could be a carb problem? have you installed a carb kit yet ? or you could try a hotter spark plug.

Check the earthing of the left hand side blinkers first both front and rear, since the right hand side is functioning we can rule out tht the flasher unit is ok.
Not bad too to check the bulbs of the left side blinkers if they are of the required voltage and watts both front and rear.
Hope this helps!

Set the intake at .005 and the exhaust at .007

Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.

FYI ---- Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks! < < And it doesn’t cost anything extra!

Check the side stand kill switch. It kills the engine so that you don’t start out with the side stand down. Broken or out of adjustment, it would make the bike die as soon as you put it in gear or release the clutch. Check for a broken wire at the switch or coupler. Get a service manual and check out the electrical section. Some bikes have a diode integrated into the turn signal relay. Try moving the kill switch by hand. If that doesn’t work then wire a jumper around the switch to bypass it. If that doesn’t work, check out the relay. Chances are that your '83 does not have the special relay.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Check out the tab "ELECTRICAL 2" at the bottom of the diagram, item #15. Babbit's has them in stock, $60.00. I don't get paid for my answers but I do take pride in them, and I am only trying to help. So if you will, > > A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

I had a simular problem on one of my other bikes. Bike will start fine, idle, rev up, but when you try to go it would spit and sputter. I found that the carbs were gummed up and not firing on all cylinder. easy way to check is start it up let it idle for a few seconds then get a spray bottle with water and spray the exhaust. if the cylinder is firing the water will sizzle if it is not it will just bead off. DO NOT do this when it is HOT this can cause many other problem only just after start up with a few minutes of running. Then you would know if you have some dead cylinders and then you can start back tracking from that because it could be carbs, plugs, coils, loose wire, but it will give you a start.

ah the old 5G2 nice bike.

if sat around for a year the battery will be shot, so it will not take a charge or hold it, that may be why the warning light.

after a year idle the carb jets will gunge up,

might you have no spark because the battery is so flat?

a year laid up... why.? did it have a fault then? carb diaphragms don't like being laid up, nor carb slides, one may be stuck in the old petrol residue.

think I'd be tempted to try a new battery, and if not charging, the regulator probably packed up, beware though, a shot regulator can feed ac through to the battery rather than DC, and it will bust your new battery. loads of people fall for that one.

sounds like that chatter is your solenoid, not starter clutch. Try a jumper cable on battery and see if that doesn't work... make sure donor vehicle is used with their engine not running...next you need to fully charge your battery or buy a new one....good luck to you friend..Tim