20 Most Recent 1995 Triumph Trident 900 Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Cars and Trucks Here is a Service Manual which covers Trident and others. https://www.triumphriders.nl/FoldersPDF/Daytona_900-1200_(1993-1997)_Service_Manual_(eng).pdf ..

Try to start it hold two fingers above hoses one with most suction is vacuum or follow hoses may be hard but follow one of them to middle of car thats fuel or unhook other ends of hoses plug one into gas let other one hang freely you will see gas u no thats fuel line

as long as your forks are straight and your bolt is torked right then your fine but if your axel and bold arnt tight then you will have serious problems when riding.

Does it go away when riding if you pull the clutch in? If so, it is the throwout bearing on the clutch.

What is the question? It just says valve shim. What do you want to know/

most modern motorcycles only need the standard plug - the dealer can tell you which to use -

sounds like the thermostat is stuck

The ride heighet will be lowered if you do this, however you will alter the geometry of the bike thus the rideability will be compramised, carefull measurments must be taken before and after, front and rear, lowering the rear will slow down the turn, so the front will have to be lowered in the yokes too, also be Aware the drive chain will run at a diffrent angle make sure it will rotate without contacting other parts

Normally if you have been following your Owners Manual, it would tell you what need to be done every 200 miles (or weekly), 600 miles (or monthly), 2000 miles (or quarterly) and 4000 miles (bi-annually).
Generally, most important is doing oil and filter change every 2000-2500 miles (quatertly) and if you have fuel filter installed to ensure it is clean and free-flowing. Air filter need to be changed depending on your travelling conditions, rule of thumb speaks every year in the spring if your live in a 4 season or every 6 months in a 2 season element weather.Tightening and adjusting all nut, bolts and valve clearances as required, drain beather hose (must be done quarterly), adjust chain-tensioner, clutch, spark plugs gap, inspect brake hydraulics functions, pad thickness and liquids (a good idea is to change brake fluids every year), check electrical systems functions, suspension, wheel-bearings, steering linkages,suspensions, etc. If your bikes shakes at 50 - 60 mph then get your wheels immediately balanced as this will create a bigger headaches if not attended. Good luck and if comment is helpful then return 4 thumbs up.

You will want to check to see if the bike is getting fuel and if it is getting spark. If no spark, check the coil and power from the stator plate to the coil.
If no fuel, check the injector pulse, fuel pressure or if you have carbs, check that the floats aren't sticky and fuel is getting to carbs.

Remove the caliper (brake) take note of the position of the anti-rattle spring, like a thin meatal plate on the edge of the brake pads. May be coverd with a plastic shield. Then remove the brake pin(s) they cross horizontally through the top edge of the brake pads, usually chrome or gold colour. The pads will then drop out,take note of any backing plates that may come out with the pads, as it is important that they go back right way up etc. While the pads are out inspect the brake pistons for rust,pump the brake lever once no more as the piston will come out,big nightmare !!.so be carefull. clean with soft brush ,then push back with soft metal or hard wood dont damage the rubber.The piston will resist so be patient . Once the pistons are home,smear the back of the new brake pads with copper grease match head size per pad,and reverse proses to re-fit. lock-tight caliper retaining bolts and torque to spec. PUMP BRAKE LEVER BEFORE RIDING OFF as pads will not touch disc first go.give final inspection try brakes while standing next to bike ,then gently bed them in for next 100 miles or they will glase over.

Parts Suppliers. The normal thing to think is "I'll just bypass them", but the tip over sensor cuts power to the engine if you drop the bike riding it. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Triumph+600TT+kickstand+and+tip+over+sensor ..

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj1rfLS9vL-AhXFATQIHSEjDGMQFnoECBwQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fixya.com%2Fmotorcycles%2Ft20960514-went_start_triumph_tiger_1050_as&usg=AOvVaw0JsHR2CItbYHI-nBz7GaK8

There are several possible reasons why the battery on your 1997 Triumph Daytona 955i may not be charging while you are riding it:

1. The battery may be faulty. If the battery is not holding a charge or is not functioning properly, it will not be able to charge while you are riding the motorcycle.
2. The charging system may malfunction. The charging system is responsible for supplying power to the battery while the motorcycle is running. If the charging system is not functioning properly, the battery will not be able to charge.
3. The voltage regulator may be malfunctioning. The voltage regulator is a component of the charging system that regulates the voltage supplied to the battery. If the voltage regulator is not functioning properly, the battery may not be able to charge.
4. The battery cables or connections may be loose or damaged. If the battery cables or connections are loose or damaged, the battery will not be able to receive a charge.

To troubleshoot the problem, you should start by checking the battery to see if it is functioning properly. If the battery is not the issue, you will need to check the charging system and voltage regulator to see if they are functioning properly. If the problem persists, it is recommended that you have the motorcycle inspected by a qualified mechanic. They will be able to diagnose the problem and recommend the appropriate repairs.

It sounds like the battery is flat. Turn the headlight on and try and start it. Does the headlight turn into a dim glow worm?

It is a known issue https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+triumph+america+no+power+to+start ..

Must be a loose connection in wires caused by movement. Inspect harness etc. Buy a clymer book for that model....for service&repair

That is usually indicative of a fuel supply issue. Check the Petcock is open and working. Strip and clean the carb fuel bowls and jet.

You are probably describing a frozen clutch caused by a long period of disuse - the clutch plates long pressed together under the pressure of strong springs have become frozen together. Sometimes only dismantling the clutch will cure the problem. Lots of people just keep the revs low and jam it into gear and hope the shock loading will do the trick. A much kinder method is to start the engine with first gear selected and go for a ride - changing gear without the clutch is quite a trick but possible. Keep the clutch lever pulled and by the time the engine is developing high torque in a high gear most clutches would become unfrozen...

W a factory scanner..private shops r bettr then dealers. Buy a clymer manual fir complete repair