20 Most Recent 2007 Suzuki GSX-R 600 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

ya i have the same problem and the clicking from my battery either the battery is done for therefore wont charge or it didnt charge long enough try an overnight charge if it dosent work then afraid its 50 quid for a new one

When you turn any vehicle on the oil light comes on. This is the the test that the lets you know the oil light is working correctly. When you start your vehicle the engine builds oil pressure and the pressure should turn the light off. If your oil light does not turn on when the key is turned on you either have a burned out light bulb, no power to the switch, or a defective oil pressure sender. Always start with the cheapest fix first (light bulb).

The trackers are hidden to prevent thieves from getting away with them.
Contact the manufacturer and supply chassis number and proof of ownership.

HI, DID YOU CHECK YOU ARE GETTING 12VOLTS TO THE IGNITION SWITCH, YOU MAY ALSO HAVE A FUSE HIDDEN BENEATH A PLASTIC COVER ON THE STARTER SOLENOIDE,

Voltage regulator failure, possibly overcharged the battery. Did any lights burn out? Is the battery water low or gone in any cells? Voltage regulator failure usually means no charging but it can overcharge to. Take battery to the shop for load test etc.

If you jump the two terminals on the starter solenoid and the starter works you need a new starter solenoid. If you hold the starter button and tap starter with a plastic hammer and the starter works you need new starter brushes. If you bench test the starter and new brushes do not fix the starter, then you need to buy a new assembly , starter parts other than the brushes are not sold separately.

it is always best to top up using ready mixed solution of coolant, apart from protecting your engine from freezing in extreme conditions, it also protects your engine and hoses from corosion, however if you are talking of a very low amount of water to bring it up to level, and you dont live in an area with very cold conditions, then it wouldnt hurt, be sure to check the strength and freeze level of protection in you cooling system, if you are unsure of the history at all have the coolant changed periodicaly

So long as gravity is in play with the fuel petcock it will work in any way.
Does fuel go through the line before the carbs?
If so then the floats or the float pin has a problem.
Check by removing the float bowl cover and check the bowl floats for movement.
A in line filter will help stop future problems,If you need to clean the needle jet try a guitar string or a piece of un-wound copper wire to clean it up.

Well it shouldn't be to hard just use common sense. Without knowing the model i can't be much help.

when you say stoped workig do you mean no digital desplay at all when you turn on the ignition, does this bike have an aftermarket gear indicator,? remove the screen and check at the rear of the clock for any broken wires, have you recently had a new front sprocket fitted, if so it is possible you have desturbed the speedomiter drive which is located in the sprocket cover secured by an8mm bolt check the wire conection from the drive follow the wire up you will find a plastic conector, check that it is joined corectly by pushing top and bottom together, it may well be that this unit is burned out a resistance must be found at this unit using a multimeter.also behind the case located on the front sprocket is the drive gear this is secured in the gearbox shaft with a 8mmm alun bolt check for security if the bolt is loose the drive will spin on the shaft and speed will not be recognised,

HI WHAT BIKE IS THIS

Check for air leaks in the exhaust system and air leaks in the intake rubbers and especially the screws where the sync gauges were connected

First, are you boiling over? If not suspect a bad temp sender giving false information. If you are boiling over, is there a secondary air bleeding point near the head that is causing the rise in temperature. If so burp the air out. If the sender is good and there is no air in the system , have you tried a coolant modifier like "ICE" to see if you can cool more efficiently. Worst case scenario, you have a hairline head gasket leak pushing hot combustion gas into your coolant (should see discoloration in the anti-freeze). This would push anti-freeze into the over flow bottle and cause an air pocket that would raise the engine temperature by creating steam. Often you will see anti-freeze discoloration on the spark plug of the affected cylinder if this is happening. In this case you will have to replace the head gasket. The fact that you say both the light and the gauge read hot leads me to think it is the sender. Hook the sender to an ohm meter, place it in pan on the stove in water, turn the stove on high, and monitor at what temperature the switch activates using a candy thermometer. As always start with the cheapest options first and work your way up. Hope this helps.

Check your fuses, and never let a car jump a motorcycle. The resulting power surge can fry things. If it's absolutely needed to jump a bike with a car make sure the car is off when you are hooking up the cables.

Change the spark plugs and spray the wires with ignition spray.If this works for u change the wires as well.Good luck and hope this works for u.

Hi and welcome to the site,

Offhand, that the only working part is the neutral light is significant. The neutral light is powered by the ignition +12 supply but its ground is switched on/off by the neutral switch down near the gear shift area. This would then indicate that the instrumentation cluster and/or the harness / connector leading to it is missing its ground connection. This maybe due to loose connection, poor terminal & pin contacts, burned / frayed / pinched ground wire.

Initially, try hardwiring an additional / temporary ground wire immediately after the biggest connector leading to the front. This would be the black/white wire. Alternately, locate the black/white wire of the headlight. Connect an electrical wire from this towards the - terminal of the battery.

Of course the black/white wire of the battery and its connector must also be checked, cleaned or even bypassed.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

G'Day,
Thanks for coming to FixYa for some advice on your problem. I will need you to answer a few questions initally to help you sort out the drama.

When you say it makes a "put put" sound, does this happen when the bike is idling, under throttle, hot or cold. Is the sound coming from the exhaust?

What have you done so far to eliminate things that may be causing the problem.

What year is the bike? Let me know and I will be better able to assist you.

regards
robotek

test the batt make sure its at 12.6V--are u gettin gas from the tank thru the carb--chec if ur gittin spark-may hav flaw in ignition,spark cable or coil--cud do a compression chec for good measure

Hi and welcome to the site,

Almost always, the description would indicate fuel starvation. This may either be caused by dirt, sand, rust or any other foreign material along the fuel line delivery. Initial approach for a fix is to clean the fuel delivery system from the tank to the intake manifolds. Of particular interest would be gummed or varnish like film coating the insides of the carbs or throttle bodies. It would be to an advantage to pull down and soak non-rubber in carb cleaner. Thereafter, ensure no blockages, dirt, sand on any of the jets, pin holes. On carb models, ensure that the floats are properly adjusted and that the float valves opens correctly to allow fuel flow to the bowl.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

my best guess over the new would be a valve train issue

have your technician run a compression and cylinder leakdown test


either that or you are running too lean