20 Most Recent 2005 Suzuki Boulevard S83 Questions & Answers

Question edited for a lot more clarity. Question moved from Suzuki Cars category. fuse and wiring https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+suzuki+s83+boulevard+1400+fuse+box+diagram https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+suzuki+s83+fuel+relay+location https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+suzuki+s83+service+manual

The s83 is the same as the vs/vl 1400. There are two carbs on that model. One down draft under the fuel tank which the fuel tank needs to be removed and the other is located at the rear cylinder (towards the seat) not as obvious as some models unfortunately. Little bit of dismantling is required

Synthetic 10- 40

the clutch fluid will be the same as used in brake fluid i believe it calls for dot # 4-- right on top of the slave reservoir wher you add the fluid it will be stamped in the top

Thumb wheel type screw located in front of r/h frame cover. If carbs are in good working order screwing in should speed idle up.

Hi Charmaine, Kindly check this site to find the parts you are looking for. Hope it helps. 2005 Suzuki Boulevard S83 VS1400GLP OIL PUMP FUEL PUMP Babbitts Suzuki...

replace your battery although you have 12 volts your battery is producing very little amps not even enough to energize your start relay let alone your starter motor

dismantle starter & clean with a good quality lubricasnt water dispersant like Inox Mx3

The pass switch flashes the high beam, some countries road laws require this before overtaking or passing

figure out which is hot side (red wire) drop it inbox with that side close to each other, hook up positive (red) first then black (ground)

Check the exhaust system for leaks, starting at the headers.Put your hands over the tailpipes with the bike idling.If there's a leak, you'll know. You block an exhuast system and 1 of 2 things are going to happen, (1) you will blow said blockage out or (2) the motor will die almost immediately.You will hear the hissing/pfft pfft pfft sound where the leak/ blockage is there.-------- check for burned out gaskets at the rear header junctions.Just go behind the air cleaner, pull the rubber hose off the back, and plug it. That keeps the pair from injecting fresh air into the exhaust, causing the popping sounds.Don't forget to plug that hole you left open on the back of the airbox.Also for loosing power and running rough problem, check the fuel system.
A fuel issue so open the float bowl drain and see what comes out, If significant crud is present it'd be a good idea to remove the float bowl and give everything a good cleaning.If no dirt or water is found, check the fuel flow; if it seems restricted, than you'll need to find out why and rectify the problem. There's also the chance that you simply picked up a load of bad gas. It does happen, so if nothing else you might want to drain out what's in there and replace it with some fuel you know to be good.Lastly, if you eliminate the potential fuel-related issues, and the bike still doesn't run right, I'd take a long hard look at the ignition system.------------- Getting this checked will point towards the cause of problem.This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

G'day,
I have a couple of suggestions for you.
Your symptom sounds like your bike is running lean(problem improves with choke).
Add that to your other symptoms & it sounds like your bike is sucking air at the inlet tract(front of carbies).
I recomend that you check that any hoses that may be fitted to your bikes inlet manifolds,arn't damaged or split.
If you find they seem fine,try running the bike,& while it's runnung,spray some WD type spray on the manifolds at the front of the carbies(use the nozzle).Be sure to spray the joint of the manifold where it bolts/is clamped to the cylinder head.
If any leaks are present,the engine speed or smoothness will change(as the WD gets sucked in through the leak & then changes the fuel mixture).
Another way to check is, using a piece of hose(about500mm long)place one end in your ear &use the other end as a probe to search for leaks while the engine is running.If there's a leak you'll hear it through the hose in your ear.
I hope that my guess is right & you should find a leak there somewhere.
I hope that this may help.
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

Back fire will happen's in multiple reasons major happens because of bad spark plug & improper timings check spark plug & timings.

You will need a length of fuel pipe, 1/4" internal diameter about a foot long (ish) and an old yoghurt pot with some break fluid in it, to stop the air going back up the tube.
Crack and unscrew the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder one turn and place the pipe over it and down into a small amount of break fluid in the yoghurt pot.
remove the cover on the master cylinder and fill with fresh break fluid. pump the break/clutch whilst topping up. When fresh fluid is squirting out and no air in the system, tighten the bleed nipple.
There you are, an easy way to bleed your breaks and clutch.
The yoghurt pot doesn't matter, a standard clean plastic/glass container will do. I just like yoghurt straight from the fridge, so I have a lot of empty pots!

I would check you fuses.

I image when you put the battery in backwards, you blew at least the main fuse on your bike.

sounds like the exhaust may be clogged,remove silencer and you can usually dismantle this and clean it out.

On you motorcycle the wire is part of the coil and there are two coils. Either you have a bad coil, a bad spark plug , or a bad spark plug cap. NGK makes some spark plug caps for about $5 each. Replace both of your spark plug caps and spark plugs. This should solve your problem.

Make sure the battery is good, ie. no bad cells........should read 13.2 volts min. Take it to any local parts store and have them load test the battery. If battery tests good, make sure that the charging system is not putting out more that 14.8 volts max. If it is putting out more than max, replace voltage regulator/rectifier.

check your starter switch, they break and half the connection is lost

NO remove the caliper, remove the pad pin fit a screw driver in to the pads where the disk would sit and lever the piston back in...