20 Most Recent 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C50 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

My next check would be the safety switches in the system- clutch and kickstand. But if you really want to check the fuel pump, you can remove the tank from the frame, disconnect the fuel line ( pinch that quick-release coupling HARD! ) and run a hose from the tank tube to a safe container. Turn on the key and note the volume in 30 seconds- I believe it should be about 15 ounces minimum, but mine put out nearly a half-gallon. You would need special gauges to test the pressure.

If you did have have the EFI system remapped to adjust for the more open exhaust, then that could account for it. You can also install a fuel controller so that you could adjust it youself.

Sorry, no dipstick; the oil level is checked at a sight window low on the right side of the engine. This is best done with an inspection mirror, as the bike must be held level to read accurately. Side note: when changing the oil filter, make sure that the rubber gasket of the old filter does not stick to the bike- some have failed to notice this, causing a total loss of engine oil while the bike is running!

Have the battery load tested. You will need it fully charged when you take it in. The dealers I have asked will do this for free.

Some have problems with the tensioners at that mileage, but not as a rule. I am at about twice that mileage on my '05 with no related issues.

Issue with Sleep Ring inside Kick Start Rod..Sleeve not response Due to Broken Loc-pin Refer To Certified Motocycle Garage For Service Repair ...Good Luck

Make sure the battery passes a load test, on FI bikes it is "CRITICAL" to have a good battery. Do you have a multi meter? Also when charging the battery you should be using a 10 amp battery charger when it goes dead, not a trickle charger. To load test your battery hook the meter leads to the battery terminals, set the meter on 20 VDC scale,static test( key off) voltage needs to be like 12+ volts. With your key on it should stay right about 12, Next press the starter button and observe the cranking voltage if it goes below 10 volts your battery needs to be replaced. This is critical to these and for the most part all bikes.

I am currently dealing with the same issue and have worked a way to figure out how to obtain the code yourself. Then you can cross-reference the code with which sensor is reporting the error.
All newer bikes these days are equipped with a connection point that shops may tap into in order to identify which connector is throwing the flag. The best part about this connection point is that anyone can access it without using any special tools or code readers. You just simply connect two wires together and the code will display in the same spot as the bike's odometer. You don't need to splice or cut or do damage whatsoever to the bike. I have used this technique and was extremely happy to figure it out!
The first thing you have to do is locate this special connector. It is located on the right side of the bike in the same location as the ECU. You only need remove one frame panel in order to gain access. Item labeled "1" in this picture is the panel you need to remove. You need a 6mm allen wrench to remove this panel. The botton right bolt is only for aethetics and will only continue to spin if you try to remove it. So, don't worry about that bolt. After you have the bolts of the panel removed, you will be able to pull the panel right off. There are rubber plugs that keep the panel attached, you just firmly pull and it will come right off.
Once you have the panel off you should see two connectors that are not connected to anything. One of them has a soft, black rubber cap on it. This is the connector you want. There are 4 wires that go into this plug. You only need to be concerned with two of them. There is a black wire with a white stripe, and there is a white wire with a red stripe. You need a paperclip or a small piece of wire. A paperclip would be easier to use. Put one end of the paperclip or wire into the hole of the connector where the black wire is. Then connect the other side of the paperclip or wire to the hole where the white wire is. So, basically, you are connecting the black wire and white wire together. Here is a completed connector for you to reference. This is an exact picture of what your C50 connector will look like. Once you have the paperclip in place, you just turn the bike on and take a look at the odometer. It will display a -C00 (dash, C, zero, zero) for about 2 or 3 seconds, and then it will display the current -C code. Take note of this code and then cross reference it with this list of codes.
C12 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR C13 - INTAKE AIR POSITION SENSOR C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1 C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2 C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3 C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4 C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1 C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2 C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3 C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4 C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (C50's need not worry) C49 - PAIR CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
Once you find out which code is yours, you should always start small. You may just have a blown fuse or a bad sensors. Fuses and sensors are very low cost items and are usually quite easy to replace. I highly recommend doing this yourself before taking it to a dealer where they'll just dilly dally for an hour before getting the code, when you can get the code yourself in about 10 minutes. It may or may not be a bad fuse or sensor, please remember that your bike may have something wrong and the sensor is simply reporting data that exceeds the acceptable range for the bike. So, if you check the fuse and replace the sensor, and the bike still returns the code, you may still need to have a more in-depth look via a dealer/shop.
Let me know how it goes!

cant say for sure on a 2005 but I think it is inside the tank ... Hope this helps

There is two adjusting screws, check for some small slots round the outside rim of the headlight. Use a philips head scredriver and make the adjustments while shining the light on a wall.

I believe that the recommended interval is 7500 miles- I waited until 15k with no apparent ill effects! I am now at 32k, and have been putting it off since 30k- it is a tedious and time consuming job, but one that anyone can do if they pay attention to detail and instructions. The forums at Volusia Riders have much good advice.

It is secured by nuts on studs that protrude into the steel sub-fender; simply remove them and slide the housing aft. There is no disconnect for the lights, though, you will have to cut and re-splice the wires if it is to be reinstalled.

To access the radiator cap, remove the seats,then the bolt at the rear of the gas tank. You should now be able to slide the entire tank and dash back enough to expose the cap on the left side of the frame. When replacing the tank, be careful not to knock loose the rubber buffers that slide into grooves on either side of the frame.

Hi and welcome to the site,

Initially, have the battery charged and load tested.

Offhand, determine if there is a clicking sound. If none but there is electrical power, then check the sidestand switch. If there is, then temporarily jumper the starter relays big terminals.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

bad coil,plug wire,or spark plug. check wiring also. loose connections and grounds.

Nothing external; it simply slips onto the splines of the shifter shaft. Since the Volusia became the C50 in '05, they have been stock, did a previous owner remove yours?

Pretty much at the bottom center of the engine case, and, yes, it is a longer bolt than one might expect.

lift it up and back the bush locates the pin in the fixing hole to stop it rattling around simply push it back in the vacant hole

Engine noise is a very subjective thing to diagnose second-hand, but the C50/Vol engine is notoriously noisy, being referred to as the "angry sewing machine". The valves are quite loud in comparison to other bikes- especially if adjusted properly, and do quiet down after warmup. If the noise you have is more violent, one culprit may be the cam chain tensioner- some have experienced early failures of these, and they can make quite a racket.

The f1 code is generally related to air/fuel back pressure- check to see that all air cleaner and EFI components are secure.