2005 Suzuki RM-Z 250 - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

exhaust 0.08- 0.16mm
inlet 0.03-0.10mm

Hello,

Kinda sounds like a problem I had some years back with a Honda. We checked everything and finally found a small hole in the carb boot. It was running fine at idle, but when taking off at full throttle it would **** out. We replaced the boot and clamps and it ran like new.

I hope this gives you an idea of what to look for.

Regards,

Oz

motul 5100 5-40

You can go to Autozone and get an epoxy. You really need to get all of the water out of the system to make the epoxy stick. If you go to Autozone tell them that you need an epoxy for forged aluminum. That is what the case is made of. It is best if you can epoxy both sides of the case.

You red line this bike don't you? The first thing to start going on a cam is the bearings. Change bearings and run the bike for about 30 hours at 1000rpm and let it break in, then change the oil and hit it hard. It will last longer.Might want to look in the crankcase too and see if there is metal shavings there too. You may need to change the rod bearings. But either way you are on the curve of burning up your engine.

have u checked your top end on it , u might need a new set of rings compression ring might be weak install a pressure gage on it kick start it check your pressure readings should be around 160 if it bleeds off then u need a new rings

hi,no easy answer i,m afraid,you will have to split the engine,before you pull it all aprt check the shift drum selector rawl pins,if one of those has come out,it will not shift up into the next gear,hope this helps...cheers

2 things
reed valves are worn out
or low compresion

unscrew the black colored screw, install in the engine side of your bike,,, wipe it with a cloth, reinstall it,, start your bike, for 2 minutes,, unscrew it it tell you the level of oil in your byk

fresh fuel, drain old out of system, clean air filter and fuel filter clean spark plugs and kill switch(use electric contact cleaner on switch.)if still hard to kick start clean the carbs out.if trash or water is in the system the jets and needle valves are probably dirty as well.

stock settings should be spot on for 10 stone. if you are a good too fast rider , go 2 clicks harder on compresion. shock and forks.

hi, the easiest way is to remove the air box . then remove the throttle cables. undo the throttle position sensor. undo the front carb flange, pull the carb off. it should then come out of the left side of the frame.

eleavate the back wheel,lossen wheel, lossen chain adjusters, make sure both sides are at the exact mark and back and tighten pull

Are you CERTAIN the two cams have not been switched? Chances are there will be the letter "E" on the side of the exhaust cam gear and/or an "I" on the intake cam. The diagram below is for a WR250. I don't have a manual for an rmz250. Your cams are probably the same. Note that the caps should tighten to only 7.2 Ft lbs. (10nm / 1.0 m-kg ). Many other things could be wrong. Was the cam assembly removed incorrectly? Doing it incorrectly can damage the cam, cam caps and cylinder head. Is the cam runout out of specifications ( .0012 )? Are you using a standard torque pattern? ( Cris-cross from inside to outside ) for installing. The reverse when dis-assembling. It may be best to let the shop figure out the problem and do the repair on this one.

A bent shift fork is the problem.

If you purchased the bike used the previous owner may have modified it for an older carb. I would take the old carb to the shop where you bought the new one and see if they can match it up with a rebuild kit or an identical carb.

8mm bolt-18ft/lbs 10mm bolt- 22ft/lbs
Hope this helps
regards Andrew Porrelli

dirt on disc/dirt in the caliper take the caliper off and clean it with a wire bruch and get back to me

hi buddy these picture will help you the axle block will have a line in the middle and it will line up with the marks on the frame

Did you forget the crankshaft seal or install the wrong part behind the flywheel? It should be replaceable when the flywheel is pulled. I'm not sure what that has to do with blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. Did you over-oil the rings when you put it together? The smoke may clear itself after running a while. Other than fouling the plug and alerting the EPA, it won't hurt it to smoke a little while. Did you check to see that the oil level in the crankcase was correct?