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The rebuilder may have move the jet needle position clip. Take the top off the carb and pull out the slide. Remove the needle and then move the clip to position 5 from the top. Try it noe. What you did was to provide a richer mid-range fuel mix. Hope this helps.
I need to adjust the
To adjust your valves you will need a few standard tools and most importantly a set of feeler gauges. You can buy these at any automotive store. The first step is removing the tank and valve cover to gain access to the valve train. You will see both the intake and exhaust cams plus the tops of the valves. This is where you will be measuring with the feeler gauge. The next thing would be to rotate the motor to top dead center. You will need to remove both inspection covers that are on the side of your ignition cover. This will give you access to the timing marks and to the bolt that allows you to turn the motor over.
Check in your manual as to what direction to turn the motor over. You do not want to turn the motor over in the wrong direction. Turn the motor over looking into the inspection (top) hole. You will notice a mark on the fly wheel. When you see this mark come around, look up at the cams. There should be two punch marks on the cam gears that line up with the gasket surface towards the outside of the head. At this point you should be at top dead center compression. Check the lobes of the cam, they should not be touching the valve buckets. If they are touching the valve buckets, this means that you are 180 degrees out of time. Rotate the motor 180 degrees and then start to measure.
After you measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the valve bucket, you will want to write that down. You will then need to check your numbers against the spec's provided in your service manual. If you are outside the specified range, you will need to remove your cams and replace the shims. There should be a chart in your manual that will help you to decide what shims you will need to bring you within the safe range. When dealing with the KXF250 or the RMZ 250, you want to make sure you use the correct shims. There are two types that will fit these bikes, but only one is the correct shim. Shims come both forged and sintered. They look the same until you put them under a magnifying glass, then the difference is very clear. The forged shims have a smooth surface, while the sintered shims have very small cavities. Using the sintered shims will prematurely wear the coating off of the valve stem. This will shorten valve life and cause the valves to go out of adjustment sooner.
Now, after replacing the shims, all that is left is to reassemble your machine. Pay closer attention to the instructions in your owners manual. Always double check your cam timing with what is recommended in the manual. Do not start your bike without turning the motor over by hand first. If you feel it is unusually hard to turn over or it will not turn over, you probably are off on your cam timing. Once again, do not try and start the bike. Go back and retime your cams.
Sospension original set up
The best way to set up your suspension is to have someone hold the bike while your on it. Then a thrid person to watch. You with your feet on the pegs jump down on it with out sitting on seat. This thrid person is there to watch to make sure that the bike will rebound or come back to normal, with both the front and rear coming up at the same time. As far as the best set up, it is all a weight thing. Keep it where it is take to woods, if you don't like it adjust it. Keep doing this until you like it. It took me 2 days on my bike just to race one Harescramble.
Drive chain adjustment
To adjust the chain you need to make sure you make the adjustment with the swing arm parallel to the ground, (this is the tightest point in the arc of the swing arm moving rotation), at that point you want to be able to put two finger between the chain and the swing arm at the swing arm pivot bolt. This will insure proper adjustment every time. The best thing to do is have somebody sti on the bike off the stand to make sure the swing arm is at its MAXIMUM arc, otherwise you stand a significant chance of over tightening it and this can and WILL cause SERIOUS damage to your engine. You will rip the output shaft bearings out of the center cases.
You also want too make sure you have proper wheel alignment as well. There are marks on the rear of the swing arm for adjusting the chain, make sure you have the marks on the adjusters in the same location on BOTH sides of the swing arm.
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
Howdy, I have a problem
remove plunger and replace with a new one moisture has ruined the other one clean out area well
Suzuki rmz 250 2005
if its making a rapping noise its the valves ,possibly contacting the piston
Could you guys illustrate to
Set your piston at TDC (top dead center), align the dots on the cam gears parallel with the top gasket surface of the cylinder head, then install your cam chain. Install and set your tensioner assembly. Your engine should now be in time. Turn the engine over one full cycle, re-check your cam timing, and adjust if nessesary.
4 stroke engines require a leaner than normal fuel/air mixture to start when hot. The cold start choke allows more fuel into the mix. The hot start choke allows more air into the mix.
Carb is not a pump. Carbs depend on suction and pressure to operate. If you are not getting fuel, the fuel pump may not be delivering the fuel to the carb or the carb may not be allowing the fuel in due to a stuck float valve or a dirty jet. I'm leaning toward a dirty jet or bad fuel.
What are the valve clearances
so here is the answer straight from the manual:
Intake: 0.09 - 0.16 mm (0.004 - 0.006 in)
Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.24 mm (0.006 - 0.009 in)
Hi, i have a denso
this particular year was very unusual because it removed the multiple inputs from magnetos and just went with a single (2 wire) signal coil (green, black) which will ultimatly go into the left side case behind the pull start. the white/blue wire goes directly to the coil. the orange wire goes to the ignition and will have 12 volts when the ignition is powered on, then go to ground with ignition off. the black/white is constant ground. this year was different because the cdi let the regulator do all the converting from ac to dc. it is also one of the haardest years to find a box for used.
Rmz 250 2007 sometimes wont shift up from 2nd to
The bike has a slightly bent shift fork. The repair requires a complete
engine teardown. Special tools needed include a torque wrench, impact driver, flywheel puller, and case splitter. This repair is not recommended for the novice mechanic. There are a lot of parts involved and just one mess up can force you to take the engine in a basket and plead with the dealer to reassemble the parts. The dealer will charge you more to repair a basket of parts than if you had just let them do the repair from the start. Below is a generic diagram showing how the shift forks, ( your bike has three ), move slider gears left and right to engage other gears. Please rate my answer.
My Suzuki LTF250 quad bike
you can do it just need patience and time, if your motorcycle has more than one carburetor be sure not to interchange the parts because there are jets not in the same number. thanks!
Rmz 250 09 model with
Compare the old cable to the new cable. The outside casings should be the same length and the Inside cable should also be the same length. The dealer may have supplied you with the wrong cable. If the cable is the correct one then check the positioning of the clutch release cam.
Rear brake was fine but
Possible you ran out of fluid before refilling...or maybe didn't get bleeder closed tight when you released brake pedal, and some air got in the lines. I'd just bleed it again.
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