2004 Suzuki RM-Z 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The rmz and kxf 250 2004-05 is a shame for both suzuki and kawasaki, they worked together to create a 4 stroke engine but failed.The first thing to brake is the waterpump. So everybody has to buy a new waterpump, but not the original one because it was a failure, they all broke and some motors got destroyed. The second thing is the valves and you can mostly reshim them once and then you would have to buy new ones that will also fail after a little use.The last thing that i know of is the camsaft, both the camsaft and valves are weak and wont tolerate any heat and you cant really ride the bike like a real offroad bike.This is my personal experience.When i bought my bike, everything in the motor had been replaced. Probably because the waterpump failed.Nothing was wrong with it and it was great, great in cold starts and the motor ran great. But after 2 rides 10 hours tops it was hard to start, so i went to the suzuki dealers and they checked the time, set the carbonator and reshimmed the valves.The motor ran for 5 minutes and then was just the same as before. Then they told me that i would have to get new valves.But then i went to check around and everyone that i asked something about these bikes said that i should have asked them before i bought the bike so they could have told me that these bikes will never work properly.And here in iceland it's better for me to throw my bike away and buy a new one, a bike that is not older then 2006.Its costs 250 dollars just to reshim the valves and set the carbonator.New valves cost around 520 dollars and the suzuki dealership takes around 280 dollars for the work of installing the new ones.

to much oil in crank case or possible rings gone

could be the shifting paw

compression under 110 get's is questionable. check your crank bearings and seal. also clean carb and check float level

do not pull in on the clutch rock back n foward mildly trying to shift it

Exhaust power valve adjustment for "stock setting" is: 1/2 turn out from closed.

The problem is common in 2 stroke watercooled bikes ,what happens is the head gasket leaks and the leaking burnt gases pass the gasket and sneak into the water jacket which highly compresses the cooling system and blows the water past the water pump seals and into the gearbox,mixing with the oil and making a vile mayonnaise mixture,make sure when you fitted the seals you fitted them the right way around the main sealing lips should both face their fluid they are keeping out and the impeller shaft should be free from and scoring or damage where the seals touch it.p.s im a fully qualified motorcycle mechanic with over 20 years experience so im not just guessing at an answer

It dependes on who you ask or which manual, you read but the main names are
counter shaft seal.
or drive axle oil seal
or drive shaft seal,
or sprocket shaft seal

the transmission shaft that the clutch is on is called main axle, the sprocket shaft is called drive axle\counter shaft

the spark is probly weak-magneto worn or the fuel delivery not rite--purchase a clymer manual-has detailed maintenance for shop mechs

check the battery with a load test to see if there is a dead cell. go to a battery shop to have this done

trail riding d'idnt provided enough air to make you're bike running cooler..and get you're head to warp a little and let pressure in you're cooling system. at least i would try a new gasket and some coolanol coolant to put in after....they get faster heat transfer..also you can put a higher pressure radiator cap that will keep in you're coolant...

sounds like the float is not working properly , could also be the jet. would be a good idea to buy a carb kit, not very expensive and save a lot of grief.

First thing is check your oil pump if function properly maybe sum damage on rings and pistons in your engine.

Posably a bent or broken reed remove and inspect reed valve

If it was white smoke coming out you may have blown a head gasket. If it is water cooled and there are no signs of external leakage then it only has one other way to go, inside.
If you have an oil dipstick, pull it out and check to see if your oil looks more like a milk shake sludge. Even if you can't see it, try dumping your oil from the sump and take out your oil filter. (unless it is a 2 stroke)

Exhaust Power valve setting for stock is: 1/2 turn out from closed. **3/4 of a turn for extra low-end grunt. [all varies depending on jetting selected,..start at stock 1/2 turn out ... and X-periment from there] .

alot of four strokes will lock up like this they get vapor locked the best thing to do is let it set do not try and start it until it free's up it could bend the valves but i dont kno about the smoking unless you tried to start it while locked up

Hi,,first thing to check is the valve stem seals,,,then id be looking at piston rings and checking the condition of the bore.

unfortunately it involves removing the head.

good luck.

keep it in power band remember

good luck.

If you are running 5th gear mid throttle the compression in the motor wasnt enough to push the piston back down

for the record ( i run a ts 250 savage 2 stroke ) i,ve done it my self it happends

try to keep it the power band you will be fine

good luck.