20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki DR 650 SE Questions & Answers

take loose any pinch bolts squeezing the main axle on both forks then take off the brake caliper for ease of maintenance and then take off speedo cable if it has one, then take loose the main locking nut for the axle, now put the bike up on a plastic study milk crate or better, and then push axle out, wheel should drop right out make sure you don't let any spacers or speedo housings drop to the ground! look to see which way the spacers and other parts are oriented for reinstalltion. Do the reverse for installation.

2003 Suzuki DR... | Answered on Aug 19, 2010

should be an adjuster on the rear shocks ... turn the top portion.

2003 Suzuki DR... | Answered on Oct 12, 2009

Have you checked your fuses?
Checked your carbs for debris or fueling issues.
If an electric fuel pump, does it 'buzz' when ignition on. If non electric (most likely) are you getting fuel to the carbs?
Have you checked your filter, fuel tap and or vacuum lines.

Suzuki DR 650 SE... | Answered on Mar 06, 2018

There should be a Haynes manual for it.

Hope this helps.

Suzuki DR 650 SE... | Answered on Oct 20, 2015

I would BUY a service manual at a dealer or at
least go there & ask the questions

I have never in 50 years found- free to be of much value-
& you do need the best reference material out there

No inexpensive, popular & talked about stuff, will replace
the factory guides & specs, you need to do your own work

Suzuki DR 650 SE... | Answered on Aug 13, 2014

Check the vacuum line between the carb and tap. It may have come off or is leaking. Remove the 'fuel out' lines from the tap. Remove the vacuum line from the carb and **** on it, turning the tap to "Reserve". You should now have fuel pouring from the tap. Also when sucking on the vacuum line you should only get a little air out the line and then it stops. If you can continuously pull air through the vacuum pipe then either it is leaking or the diaphragm in the tap is leaking.

Suzuki DR 650 SE... | Answered on Aug 30, 2010


The rattling will be either/or both the upper rear sprocket chain guard (black plastic) or the lower rear sprocket chain stay (silver metal). With the bike being lowered it has changed the angle at which the chain is pointing. There should be some adjustment in the lower silver chain stay (the bit that keeps it directly safely and stops it jumping). The black plastic upper guard is not really needed and can be removed.

The lowering procedure would have been to compress the forks a few inches, tighten up the yokes, so effectively you have a lowered front end and less suspension travel. Sometimes they slide the top of the forks out of the upper yokes (next to the speedo) and they stick out a little, maybe an inch or so. The rear suspension would have had a shorter spring installed.

The chain tensioning procedure can be done by tightening or loosening the rear chain tensioners next to the rear sprocket. Measure the slack/deflection of the chain in all gears and work out the average deflection of 1.4/1.5"

I hope all of this information helps and you can carry on riding your bike without any more annoyances.


Suzuki DR 650 SE... | Answered on Aug 06, 2010

If trash was removed from carb,they were probably filled right back with trash if you didnt clean the rest of the fuel system before reinstalling it.(check fuel filter for dirt trash or water)

Suzuki DR 650 SE... | Answered on Apr 26, 2010

if it will run under partial throttle then sounds like your idle jet is clogged pull floatbowl off carb remove idle jet clean and replace make sure you can see through the jet before reinstalling

Suzuki DR 650 SE... | Answered on Jan 30, 2010

chreck your HT and see if you have a spark at the plug .
your HT may be faulty or you may have a loose connection somewhere .
CDI unit could be burned too .

Suzuki DR 650 SE... | Answered on Sep 27, 2009

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