20 Most Recent 2002 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 Questions & Answers

Most sports bikes are limited to 300km/h by the manufacturers in an effort to be responsible. Actually the ? was about the 1000 not "most sport bikes". The Suzuki gsxr1000 for 2007 is rev limited to 184 mph. U do the math to figure out kph but in the U.S. who cares about the metric numbers.

http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals Motorcycle Service and Repair Manuals

The "bottle" is probably the overflow tank for the radiator/coolant. Any oil in that is, unfortunately, terminal. Or , lack of service of a cooling system produces "gunk" and looks odd. Cooling systems need periodic servicing, yearly or more is a good yard stick, depending on mileage. Does the bike overheat or misfire?

what does the bottle normally hold?

If nothing else comes on such as lights or anything, I would suspect the main fuse is blown.

Disconnect the battery and while the battery is disconnected turn the ignition switch to on. After 5 minutes turn off the ignition and reconnect the battery. You will need to reset the clock and shift light if it has one.

Carbs, You must be an ethonal user. jets not flowing the way they should....Not fun..

Clutch slip I think.Simon

Press SELECT until your odometer reading is displayed.

Press SELECT and hold then immediately press ADJUST and hold it as well.

Keep holding both and your miles should switch to kilometers.

If it does not and your timing is ok, try pushing ADJUST first, holding, and pressing SELECT second, holding both until it changes.

You should change the oil at 22930 miles.General recommendation is every 3500 miles for mineral oil and 7000 for synthetic oil.This is for road use.If you are racing then halve the intervals.

This is highly technical and you have done a great job to look around correctly. As you have inferred the fault seems to be fuel starving at the highest point when it is required to PUMP into where the shortage of fuel seems to starve off the engine.
Seems that the settings for fuel flow must be altered to suit your requirement, the change of throttle body did make a change suggesting that flow was better than the first one.
The low fuel pumping--- 1040 instead of 1200+- is also a point to consider. If the fuel pump calibration can be increased this might help.
Otherwise I think you are doing the right thing , start with the fuel pump bring up the pressure to exceed 1200.
Good day.

Fuel PRESSURE may hold but volume may not be there. Have you pulled the fuel pump and checked the sock? May be its getting clogged. Check the internal O rings in the pump assembly to see they are in good shape. If that fails to cure, test the pump for fuel volume using the discharge test. It should be 220 ml or more/10 seconds. If you're still stuck, have the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. The injector issue may be the culprit. Multi-holes clog when you look at them wrong. It also fits with your increased rev limit when the engine's just started, as the injector pulse width is increased.-----Remove and recheck side stand switch wires.If they are getting short or loose it can also cause this problem. ------------ Also check the battery, stator voltages, are they getting hot after the bike cuts off.If thats the case then any of them is getting weak or battery loosing its charge or stator stops charging battery after getting hot/warm. ---------- This should help.Thanks,.Helpmech.

Not to sound rude, but do you know the right way to check your oil? Do you have the right amount of oil in the bike? Now that you have a pipe do you have a power commander or anything to adj the EFI now that you have a pipe on it? And last question, are you riding on one wheel?? i ask that because i see alot of guys riding wheelies for miles and that starves the motor for oil. please get back to me and ill be able to help you more.
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M.Woodring

if everything else is working electrically ie lights indicators horn and such then its not the battery if you have been driving it and it got a little spluttery or jumpy when driving then this is the spark plugs you could take out the plugs which are under the fuel tank and take out the air box not a very big job and have a look at them if there overly black or wet then there is a problem with the spark or lack of a spark if you had a small file you could gently rub the top of the plug where the wee hook is and then try again i have plugs in nearly 2 years that i file regularly and i get a perfect spark every time hope this is of use to you

The lcd display should show either an oil symbol, a temp symbol, or fi to let you know which system the warning light is for. The oil symbol should be present before starting the motor and go away once the engine is running, if not you have an oil pressure problem. If it is FI, then you will need to jumper the test connector located under the seat to retrieve the codes on the display and a service manual to look up the code.

clutch cover side.

Replace the bulb bulb

i do mean this nicely but this is something that should really be done by a shop. Two resons one they have the know how and know the right places to get the goodies. Two if they screw something its you them, if you screw up its on you.
Mark
C.C. Motorsports

Im not sure what the codes are but I can tell you this, my friend, if you dont get it looked at, your motorcycle will suffer as a result. The lights are there for something. Get the Suzuki guy to tell you what they mean and/or fix them before you do mych more riding ... If you expect to continue riding, that is.

Please have a pro look at it.

This is normally a ignition signal fault ,and will usually be from an interrupted signal from your ignition coil which can give the code c24-c27.

Check the coil,wiring/coupler connections and power supply from the battery.