20 Most Recent 1999 Suzuki GSX-R 600 Questions & Answers


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Blown instrument fuse.
2. Faulty sending unit.
3. Faulty wiring between the sending unit and gauge.
4. Faulty ground or power connection.
5. Bad fuel gauge.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.gixxer.com/forums/80-06-07-gsx-r600-750/260874-fuel-level-gauge-not-working-help-plz.html
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Mar 28, 2019


Hi, Alexcalderon for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 05, 2018


Hi, Ice56 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 04, 2018


Hi, Jkozza for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 04, 2018


Hi, Drluke69 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 04, 2018


Hi, Jonny_sorens and the usual suspects are:
1. Inlet system air leak.
2. Enrichener valve not seated or leaking.
3. Damaged or restricted fuel tank vent system.
4. Restricted fuel supply tract.
5. Dirty or damaged air cleaner element.
6. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
7. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
8. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
9. Loose or plugged main jets or passages.
10. Improper float level.
11. Accelerator pumps inoperative.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 02, 2018


Hi, Brookcitykid and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.
14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
16. Fuel filter clogged.
17. Old or contaminated fuel.
18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
20. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
22. Incorrect valve timing.
23. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
25. Incompatible performance parts.
26. The control module may be in "LIMP" mode
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 02, 2018


Hi, Justin and the usual suspects are:
1. Installation of a different camshaft.
2. Different exhaust system or "STRAIGHT PIPES"
3. Faulty advance curve.
4. Multiple carburetors not in sync.
5. Improperly installed jet kit or wrong kit.
6. Carburetor internal malfunction.
7. Fuel mixture too rich.
8. Fuel mixture too lean.
9. Extremely dirty air filter.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 01, 2018


Hi, Clive and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables misaligned or misrouted.
2. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
3. Intake system air leak.
4. Vacuum piston malfunction.
5. Pinholes or torn diaphragm.
6. Accelerator pump leaking or no output.
7. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
8. Fuel level in bowl too low.
9. Restricted fuel supply passages.
10. Plugged jets or passages.
11. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
12. The choke valve not seated or leaking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 31, 2018


Hi, Djchucks if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging remove the leads and let the battery sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and cracks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 31, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 31, 2018


Hi, Anonymous before you start it in the morning, pull the spark plugs and sniff them. Do they smell like gasoline? Are they wet? If so, you may have fuel leaking past the needle and seat in the carburetor and flooding the cylinders.
Use a voltmeter on the battery an hour after you shut the bike off. It should be at least 12.6 volts. Check it again in the morning. It should still be 12.6 volts or more. If not, something could be drawing current when the key is off.
If it's a carbureted bike and the ambient temperature is warm, you may be over-using your choke/enrichner. Try cranking it with the choke turned off first and then try half-choke, and then full choke. If you start with too much choke it will flood. After it starts, shut the choke off after 15 - 30 seconds and then use the throttle to keep the bike running until it warms up. Over-using the choke will soot up your spark plugs.
A fresh set of properly gapped spark plugs can make a lot of difference in how easily a bike starts.
Engines need a richer fuel mixture when they're cold. An intake leak can also cause hard starting because it leans out the air/fuel mixture.
After you get the bike started, spray some WD-40 or carb cleaner around the carburetor intake manifold seals. If the RPMs change, you have an intake leak.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 30, 2018


Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day
Suzuki GSX600F Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals
Suzuki GSX R600
Suzuki GSX R600

1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 13, 2018


Hi, Billy for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki 2001 GSX R600 Service Manual
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http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 12, 2018


you need to replace the air temperature sensor. looks like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSXR-TL-SV-AN-600-750-1000-Air-Temperature-Sensor-1996-2009-13650-61B00-/182447458716?hash=item2a7ab7499c:g:-rYAAOSwopRYmblq

1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Feb 12, 2018


Hi, Kev you may to synchronize your carburetors before you can perform this procedure you must check the intake rubbers or blocks for leaks, this can easily be done by spraying Starting Fluid or similar flammable on the intake manifold while the engine is running, if there is a substantial change in RPM's you have a vacuum leak and it must be repaired before proceeding, so if your bike runs like hell, is hard to start, idles erratically and feels down on power. What you need is proper Carburetor Synchronization What's that? On multicylinder bikes with separate carburetors (or fuel-injection throttle bodies), all carbs need to be doing their fair share and operating in tight lockstep with one another. When one or more carburetors get out of line, some cylinders will be receiving more air and fuel than the others, causing uneven idling and, possibly, surging at cruising speeds.
Professional technicians take training classes in the art of carb syncing, but it's a pretty straightforward exercise requiring only the right tools and some patience. To begin the procedure:
1. Have a clean, well-lit workspace with good ventilation, you'll be running the engine during syncing so don't enclose yourself in the garage.
2. You'll need a reasonably powerful fan to help keep the engine cool.
3. A lot of shade tree wrenches do without, but if the engine overheats your settings won't be right.
4. I "HIGHLY" recommend you buy all of your equipment at Harbor Freight if there is one near you or you can order online from their website they have very inexpensive prices.
5. You'll need a carb balancer, of course. Several types are available, including some inexpensive mercury manometers, tall glass or plastic tubes attached to a reservoir of mercury on one end and hoses that lead to the intake ports on the other.
6. For you ******** cheapskates there are many YouTube videos on how to make homemade versions with individual vacuum gauges.
7. Plan to buy or fabricate a temporary fuel source, because on most bikes you'll have to do the syncing with the tank removed. You can also use the stock tank elevated and fitted with a long fuel line.
8. Long, thin Phillips screwdriver.
9. Start by clearing away as much bodywork as you can to gain access to the carbs. Some bikes will have screws filling ports in the intake tract, the most common size is 5mm, but some Yamahas use 6mm threads. Make sure your balancer has the right adapters. Still, other bikes have ******* on the intake tubes, like the Suzuki Bandit. Remove any lines or covers and attach the carb balancer lines, keeping track of the order from left to right.
10. Check to make sure the hoses don't get in the way of the throttle linkages or cables.
11. See if the idle-mixture fuel or air screws are exposed and double-check that they're set correctly and equally.
12. With the temporary fuel supply attached, start the engine and let it warm up. Resist the temptation to blip the throttle because the spike in the manifold vacuum can draw the mercury out of the balancer. Look down between the carbs and you'll see a small screw head near the common throttle shaft. There are three of these on a typical four-cylinder bike to set the relationship of the adjoining carbs.
13. Begin by adjusting the screw between the number-one and number-two cylinders to match the readings on the balancer. Normally, the spec says to get them within 0.5 to 1.0 in. of Hg of each other but there's nothing wrong with setting them dead even. Gently blip the throttle to make sure the linkage has taken a set and check the balancer.
14. Next, move to the number-three and number-four pair and balance them.
15. Finally, use the center adjustment to synchronize the left and right pairs. By now, you may have to reset the idle speed. Don't be surprised if you have to go back and slightly tweak the settings one more time.
16. As a final test, run the engine up to a low cruising rpm and see how the vacuum signals compare. If they're way off now but fairly equal at idle, you may have a sticky slide, sloppy linkages or some other malady and syncing won't help. Shut off the engine, remove the test gear and button it up, being careful to secure the manifold plugs and fuel connections.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki 2001 GSX R600 Service Manual
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Suzuki GSX R600 2003 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 27, 2017


Hi, Sharon my gut tells me you may have a faulty battery ground cable connection to the frame or engine case or your starter relay, starter solenoid, starter motor are being given last rites for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on May 07, 2017


You need to have the carbs cleaned. The idle jets are plugged with dried gas from sitting.

1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 20, 2016


Hi Anonymous, You need to rebuild your petcock with a new kit and I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Harley but despair not for a mere $15.00 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1999 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 07, 2015

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