20 Most Recent 1998 Suzuki GSX-R 750 W - Page 3 Questions & Answers

You cannot bleed the fuel injection system.Test the pump alone (not on the bike) for sufficient fuel supply.Also check the fuel pump relay.
If all that is ok next time you try to crank the engine (only with kill switch on, the fuel pump primes up) with lifted tank and opened air box, spray a bit of carb cleaner spray towards the throttle bodies.It will help.

Look harder

You have to plug in a diagnose console to show you what error is being recorded by the ECU.Must go to a dealer's workshop.

there is a sight glass toward the bottom of the motor keep looking you'll find it

Yellow and red wires should be your power wires, the others should be ground. Check for both. You may need to turn it over a few times to get the pump to prime.

Here it is.

Hello

This will help you

http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2008/10/28/bikepics-1464099-320.jpg

Thanks

Sounds like you're running out of fuel. It doesn't take much power (ie, fuel) to rev it in neutral, which might explain why it does that fine but falls over under load. Checked your fuel pressure/pump/filter?

There are usually two methods to check the oil. One is a dipstick and the other is a sight-glass. You should have one or the other somewhere on the side of the engine crankcase. It should be fairly obvious and not require the removal of any body panels. If you can't find a dipstick in the side of the crankcase you will need to get down on your hands and knees and have a look for a sight-glass instead. This will be like a tiny window with a gauge against which you can check the level.

If I had to guess, it sounds like fouled spark plugs to me.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Your description indicates an electrical malfunction. Offhand, the jump start and charging is significant. This points to the bike's battery not charging. Suspects would be:

• voltage regulator (most likely);
• connectors to voltage regulator (likely). Check/clean corrosion/burnt marks;
• stator and/or the 3 wires coming from it (least likely).

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Yes, could be dirty carbs, but it sounds like a bad throttle cable to me. Check your throttle cable. It should operate with no binding, and it must freely spin back to closed when released from any position, especially full throttle. Try this procedure several times (with the bike turned off), while turning the handlebars to both stops and testing this freeplay. The throttle should operate freely throughout the entire left/right travel, including at both stops. The cable can/should be lubed, if needed. Your user manual should list a procedure for that. Also, put some penetrating lubricating oil (I prefer ProLong super lubricants myself) on all the throttle linkages, too. They tend to bind up with age. If it still sticks, you might get lucky and get away with using a high-quality fuel system cleaner to help free up the carb float response. Otherwise, you probably will need to have them disassembled and cleaned. As long as you're in there, get 'em synched, too. Good luck!

check to see if the spark plug fouled. Common problem with restrictor plate in place and may have just picked this time to foul.

have spark and compression but do you gave good supply of fresh gas?

This may help you a bit.

1. Undo the two screws for the fuel tank (steering side, not seat side)
2. Lift tank, unplug all attachments to airbox.
3. Loosen screws on the left and right of airbox to loosen from the carbs and remove air filter box.
3. You should see four black 'things' with wires attached at the top of the engine - unplug wires and pull the black plugs out.
4. If possible, use compressed air to clean out the holes before attempting spark removal. Sand can sometimes get in there.
4. Insert spark plug socket in the holes to remove and replace.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Two possible reasons:

• faulty throttle cable. There should be a spring like feel when throttling/revving the bike. If none, then either the cable is broken or the lock has been dislodged from its hooking point between the carbs;
• vacuum leak. Another indication of a vacuum leak is relatively high idling RPM even when the choke is in normal position. Vacuum leaks could be caused by a cracked rubber connector from the carbs to the intake port, a loose/crack vacuum line or missing carb balancer rubber cap/cross-over.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Use a Helicoil or a Recoil. Either is available at your local auto parts or search the 'net for "thread repair" and you'll find what you need. It will take a drill bit and a tap or two, but the hole will be as good as new when you are done.

I did the same upgrade with the same bike. put a 16t in front and 64t in rear, never had a problem. just more power. I did notice when the chain was to tight things werent working right. gave the chain a little slack and the bike performs great. you might want to remove the front sprocket cover and check if the end of the clutch cable is installed properly. Hope this helps!

Make sure the cable didn't slip out of it's detent. If it isn't placed exactly where it should be, you gon't get proper tension on the clutch plate.