20 Most Recent 1998 Suzuki GSF 600 N Bandit - Page 2 Questions & Answers

This may take a few days, Look for a produce called "PB Blaster". This is the best penetrating oil to use on dissimilar metals where corrosion happens worse. Spray and try to tap the pin with a hammer and punch. Spray and tap, wait, spray, tap, wait. If you can get a grip on it with pliers try and turn a bit left/right just a small amount ether way. Work in small steps, work slow, have patience with it, getting in a hurry is when folks cause damage, make things worse.

Make sure the battery has a good charge on it.
If it does, check the clutch, neutral and kickstand safety interlock switches.
One of the safeties is possibly disconnected or stuck.

It is not uncommon for discs including car discs after changing pads for the disc to squeel.

Because the disc will inevitably wear with use, the old brake pad that causes the wear will also be worn to fit perfectly to the wear on the disc as at engages, whereby grooves in the disc that are formed will be identically paired to that on the brake pad.

Squeeling is also common for old pads, as well as poor quality badly manufactured cheap pads, or excessive use of brake pads - where they get burnt and are too hard against the disc or dust fibres from the brake pad get caught within pad and disc. It could even be a combination of these that causes squeeling.

When you change the pads which are now new and being smooth and unworn they do not mate up anymore with the groove marks created from the wear of the old pads. The discs when brake pressure is applied will always vibrate to some extent, even on new bikes, however if imperfections exist such as the fact there is no wear marks from new pads rubbing against the old disc with its worn imperfections or even improper fitting etc occurs - they will sing in a high pitched squeel at certain speeds, even with good quality pads.

Other than ensuring all items are set up correctly, get a good quality brake pad and if it continues squeeling consider replacing the disc rotar itself or get the old one machined by a mechanic shop to be smooth again.

The most likely fault is that the ignition switch is not working. If you have a manual you could disconnect the switch and try to link the "on" pins. this will either prove the a faulty switch of eliminate it. You don't say what the bike is or if it has an imobilise. This last may be your problem if it has one.

Sorry I couldn't be more specific. This should at least give you a starting point.

the best thing to do is buy a repair book online for troublshoot details-cause Im not understandin statement

It depends on what the model and year is.

.... if you are a do-it-yourselfer and you already know this stuff, skip to the bottom!

It could be a burr in the brake cylinder or a problem with the master cylinder....

Personally, I would not mess around with it because we all know what happens if you lock up your front brakes!

If it is under warranty, let Suzuki deal with it....

If you are out of warranty:

1- If you know what you are doing, I would recommend the "shotgun" approach and replacing both the master cylinder and the wheel cylinder.... yep, it will cost more, but you will be more confident in the fix!

2- If you are not comfortable with brake work, get a skilled friend or a shop to take a look and replace what they think is bad (I would still go with both cylinders, but that is me....)

Also, don't forget if you are a "do-it-yourselfer":

When you are dealing with dual pistons, you need to press them both in together!
(that means TWO "C" clamps- one for each piston!)

adjust the idle screw on the carburetor.

Yes you will need the CDI for the 750f and harness as well

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=repair+manual+for+1986+Suzuki+cavalcade+gv1400

The crank case will be almost as hot as the oil flowing around the engine, lubricating the bearings.

Thinking you meant Raider and not 'rider', and this is a Suzuki motorcycle and should not be in Cars and Trucks category. Edited and moved. https://www.google.com/search?q=raider+150+carb+tensioner

The air/fuel mixture screw on a Suzuki VS800 Intruder is typically located on the carburetor. To adjust the air/fuel mixture, you'll need to locate the carburetor and look for a small screw that can be turned. Keep in mind that the exact location of the screw may vary slightly depending on the model year and specific carburetor version on your VS800 Intruder. Generally, it is located on the bottom or side of the carburetor. Here are the general steps to locate and adjust the air/fuel mixture screw: 1. Locate the Carburetor: The carburetor is usually positioned on the side or underside of the engine. Follow the intake manifold or air filter housing to find the carburetor. 2. Identify the Air/Fuel Screw: Look for a small screw on the carburetor. This screw is typically flat-headed and may be recessed. It is often located near the bottom of the carburetor. 3.Adjustment: With the engine running at idle, use a screwdriver to turn the air/fuel mixture screw. Turning it clockwise (in) usually leans out the mixture, while turning it counterclockwise (out) enriches the mixture. 4. Listen to the Engine: As you make adjustments, listen to the engine's sound. The goal is to find the point where the engine runs smoothly and the idle is stable. 5. Fine-Tune: Make small adjustments and give the engine a moment to respond before making further changes. It's a process of trial and error to find the optimal setting. 6. Check the Owner's Manual: Refer to your motorcycle's owner's manual for specific guidance on the location and adjustment of the air/fuel mixture screw. The manual will provide information tailored to your bike's make and model. If you're uncomfortable making these adjustments yourself or if you're unsure about the location of the screw, it's advisable to consult a professional mechanic or refer to the specific service manual for your Suzuki VS800 Intruder.

Question edited for a lot more clarity. BTW it isn't a Moped because it doesn't have pedals 'Motorised and Pedal operated - 'mo ped'. It is a Scooter. Here is your service manual. Check all connectors for corrosion, check fuses and grounds on the lights. It may be a voltage rectifier issue. Probably need a good electrician.

Suzuki AY50 servicemanual

Scootergrisen https://scootergrisen.org > download > suzuki_a... This manual contains an introductory description on the SUZUKI AY50/50W and procedures for its inspection/service and overhaul of its main com- ponents ... 268 pages

SUZUKI AY50 SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download

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f your 2005 Suzuki 250 is refusing to start even after replacing the kickstarter and battery, there could be several other potential issues to consider. Here are some troubleshooting steps to help you diagnose and resolve the problem:

1. Check the Fuel: Ensure that your motorcycle has an adequate supply of fuel in the tank. Sometimes, an empty tank or a clogged fuel filter can prevent the engine from starting.
2. Inspect the Spark Plug: A fouled or damaged spark plug can hinder ignition. Remove the spark plug, inspect it for fouling, and replace it if necessary. Also, check the spark plug wire for any damage or loose connections.
3. Examine the Air Filter: A dirty or clogged air filter can restrict airflow and affect engine performance. Inspect the air filter, and if it's dirty, clean or replace it.
4. Verify the Ignition System: Ensure that the ignition system is functioning correctly. Check for spark by removing the spark plug, grounding it against the engine, and cranking the engine while observing for a spark. If there's no spark, the ignition system may need attention.
5. Inspect the Carburetor: A malfunctioning carburetor can cause starting issues. Check for clogs, blockages, or a stuck float valve. Cleaning or rebuilding the carburetor may be necessary.
6. Verify the Fuel System: Ensure that fuel is reaching the carburetor. Check for fuel flow by disconnecting the fuel line at the carburetor and cranking the engine briefly. Fuel should flow from the line.
7. Compression Test: Low compression can also prevent the engine from starting. Perform a compression test to check the engine's compression levels. If compression is low, it may indicate internal engine problems that require professional attention.
8. Electrical Connections: Ensure that all electrical connections are secure, including those to the starter motor and solenoid. Loose or corroded connections can prevent the starter from engaging.
9. Safety Switches: Some motorcycles have safety switches like a kickstand switch or a clutch lever switch. Ensure that these switches are not preventing the bike from starting when they shouldn't be.
10. Professional Inspection: If you've checked all of the above and still can't identify the issue, it may be best to have a qualified motorcycle mechanic or technician inspect your bike. They have the expertise and tools to diagnose and fix more complex problems.