20 Most Recent 1995 Suzuki GS 500 E Questions & Answers

you should,unless you take off rim

If the starter is spinning but the engine is not cranking, the sprag clutch (a gear that turns only one direction) is either bad or the nut on the end of the crankshaft that holds the sprag assembly is lose. Remove the stater or the cover that holds the sprag assembly and rotate the sprag gear and it should rotate only one direction. Rotate the large sprag gear with a screw driver wedged in the gear and the engine should turn one way an freewheel the other way. Check to make sure that the nut at the end of the crankshaft is tight or it will not turn the crankshaft.

hi , i own the same model , and yes this problem is common at this model , you either try to heaten up the block before you fire it up or to hold the bike in a warm place , what are the symptoms before the she fire up ?

Valves could need adjusting, try tuneup first. New plugs and wires, new air filter and clean fuel filter.

remove oil cap/dip stick and replace the ruber bush on the cap/stick
and check for cross theading on the cap/stick (a big fault plastic & ally dont mix to well)
tc

Sounds like you have a stuck float in the carb. or a piece of crud on the float valve, or a bad float valve. The tube is the overflow tube. Shut off the petcock on the fuel tank. Take the leaky carb off, (you can leave the throttle cable attached) flip it over and remove the float bowl on the bottom. There should be some phillips screws. The hex shaped plug in the middle is the jet access plug. You don't have to remove it. Once it's off, you will see the brass float. Spray the hinge and needle/seat area really well with carb cleaner. LIGHTLY Lift up on the float and spray out the valve needle and seat right below the float really well in case there is a piece of debris causing it not to seat fully. You'll see the valve, it has a clip that attaches it to a little tang on the float. Flip the carb back over to an upright position (before putting the bowl back on) and see if the float drops down. If so, LIGHTLY push up on it and see if it moves freely. If so, and you are sure you cleaned the valve and seat, put the bowl back on, reinstall the carb, turn on the fuel flow and see if the problem is resolved. Most of the time this will fix it. The only expense is a can of carb cleaner and about a half hour of your time if you've never done it.

only 4 miles????? thats not bad realy,,after all its darn cold air out there!!,you never start it and let it run up for a fuw minuets before you drive away then? a cold engine will have maximum engine were done to it if driven cold! have you checked the thermostat out? if its stuck open the engine will take longer to warm up,,,but 4 miles???? thats nothing my BMW takes forever to warm up,,,the fan has only ever started up once in 3 years of riding it??? i was sat in a jam up for 30 minuets first with the engine ticking over!!! dont worry it will warm up quicker when the wether warms up

go to www.servicemanual.com

Gas will turn to varnish in as little as 6 months.
The new gas was just enough to get the varnish nice and sticky before it started giving you fits. There is noway the carburetor will function correctly after 1 year let alone 3 without maintenance on the carb. This will require the carburetor to be removed and completely disassembled and cleaned. This is not rocket science and with just a few tools and a bit of skill anyone can do it. However if you have never done it before the very least you need to do is get a service manual. It will give you a far better explanation of the task then I can give here.
Hope this helps.

The Autodata tech book says the 1995 GS500 takes 377cc of SAE10W fork oil in each leg.

Look for a small drain screw of at the bottom of each fork,this is where you drain it,Then there should be a large hex at the top where you add the correct mount,also the spring is in there so have the front end raised off the ground by setting the frame up on some blocks

to remove seals you will need to remove each fork leg from the bike,i put the bike on the centre stand and jack under the motor to get the front wheel off the ground,after you remove the fork leg,remove the dust cover(if fitted),remove the circlip holding the old seal,you may have to stab through the old seal with a screwdriver to remove the seal from inside the leg(be carefull not to damage the chrome on the fork leg),clean around the surfaces and install the new seal making sure it goes back in dead square,refit the circlip,then refit the dust cover,replace fork tube back in bike and top up with new oil,most bikes take between 300 to 500cc of oil,but check with your local shop as all bikes are different,and you can adjust the amount of rebound damping by varying the amount of oil you put back in,..sounds complicated but quite an easy job..hope this helps

I am not familiar with tha GS500. If it has carbs and not fuel injection then try the following.

Get new stock plugs from the dealer. Shut off the gas and drain the carb. Now remove the water trap from the bottom of the petcock. Any water there? Dump the contents of the water trap and briefly turn the gas on . Hold a cup to the petcock to catch the flow. Turn off the gas and look at the bottom of the glass. Any water at the bottom? Any water in the tank should be gone now. Put the petcock bowl and fuel line back on. Turn on the gas and wait for the carb to fill with fuel. Give it a try now. Choke on?

since some of carb are pneumatic drive it depends on air intake as you move the throtte and the idle wont back to normal when your bike is warm..the trouble is in the carb flapper,it is a flat shape steel that contols the air flow of the carb,if you can find a spare for that..better

Did you search on www.suzuki .com ? Suzuki Motor of America Inc

Make sure the battery cables are clean and tight. The starter cables get warm due to excessive cranking, or high amperage. The starter or solenoid need to be repaired or replaced.

Low compression is typically a sign of worn piston rings. The fix is very expensive - overhaul of the engine. You may find it is more economical to replace your motorcycle. Before you go over the edge, I suggest you have your engine looked at by a professional, who can ascertain if in fact your compression is low and will have a prety good guess at the cause and the repairs required.You can probably get some more miles from your motorcycle by using heavier grade oil ... if it is worn rings, it will ONLY get worse, it will not improve.

check kill switch, fuel shut off valve, an6d fuel level If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5