Hi, Zwelithini your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. https://www.gixxer.com/threads/idle-issue-then-black-smoke.356474/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YfEIP6eRzs https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki https://www.gixxer.com/threads/k8-750-owners-manual.378746/
Hi, Richard and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. A failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen the gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1321428000 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jPjq_aAy-8 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1165889/Suzuki-Ls650-Savage.html https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/transfer/2002_LS650P_Owners_Manual.pdf
Go to Google and type 85 Suzuki murader Factory service manual PDF download. Look for a sight called manuallib. Factory service manuals are free online for bikes of you know where to look it will detailed description with pics on what you need to know.
I earned $5000 ultimate month by using operating online only for 5 to 8 hours on my computer and this was so smooth that i personally couldn't accept as true with before working on this website. if you too need to earn this sort of huge cash then come and be part of us. do this internet-website online ...........
Are you working on turn signals or head light? Blinkers going too far because there isn't enough of a load on the circuit. Burnt bulb in the front, or a wire not hooked up, maybe that's why they don't work and the back are going real fast. If you are putting in LED bulbs, without a resistor thwy qill not load the flaher enough either, and it will flash very quickly. As for color of the wire, usually you can Google wire diagrams for specific vehicles.
Hi, John engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is the air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into Suzuki Raider 150 your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components has been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in the process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://katriders.com/forum/service-department/mechanics-101/70944-bike-won-t-go-past-7000-rpm https://www.gixxer.com/forums/137-08-10-gsx-r600-750/736369-another-wont-rev-past-problem.html https://lubenertioti.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/61.pdf https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki Suzuki Raider 150 FU150SC Owner Manual
Is the petcock "on"? No, I'm not being sarcastic. The filter in the tank (fuel pump) may be clogged. Because you said you have no clogs in the tank, you may have a clog in the fuel line itself. If you take the line off the carbs, does gas flow? If yes, your carbs may be dirty, and the gas is not able to run through the jets properly.