20 Most Recent 1990 Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana) Questions & Answers

Sounds to me like the switch itself needs replaced. You could try pulling it apart and checking for corrosion and cleaning the contacts up but the switches are pretty cheap.

Use adjustable needles.there should be five slots start in middle and get bike running.then adjust according to if bike is running rich or lean.

hi, the obviouse thing here is to get a manual, however if you think you have the finess required to do the job its fairly straight forward, put bike on stand, raise the front wheel of ground, remove spindle from front wheel, remove calipers from forks, DO NOT REMOVE BRAKE LINES FROM CALIPERS, once you have done this you can then remove the front wheel, put spindle back through loose wheel inc spacers to keep all in place, remove front mudguard, i always tell people to try and remove the lower fork leg first leaving fork tube on the bike, some forks it is poss to do this as the busshing is fitted to the lower leg and not the chrome tube, undo the bolt in the lower fork leg on the underneath inside where the spindle fits through, once removed, using a container to catch the oil, pull dovn on the lug to remove it, if it comes of all the way you are in luck easy job, the fork can then be cleaned and new seal fitted, the manual would come in handy for fork oil levels,if the leg does not come off you will have to remove the whole leg, before you remove it undo the top nut on each leg as the yokes will hold it for you, it is difficult to undo once the fork is removed, once removed, lift up the dust seal, remove the clip, and then the spring from the top, grip the lower leg in a vice with protective jaws, on the flat surface only, to grab the tube area would damage the fork leg, once in the vice, push in the stancion fully depress and pull out sharply you may have to repeat this sevral times useing the stancion as a hammer until the seal is removed, replace in reverse order,
DO 1 FORK FIRST REASEMBLE THEN DO THE OTHER, hope this helps feel free to contact me, paul

Check switch on front brake lever / master cylinder and the switch attached to rear brake lever may need adjusting or cleaning

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly

The float valve (Needle and seat) is stuck open. This can be caused by foreign particles in the seat area, (dirt ect) a very hard rubber seat on the needle or the rubber seat on the top inside of the of the carburator.
It can also be caused by a stuck or dmaged float.
The only way to properly fix it is to remove the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb and investigate where the internal leak or cause is.

Here is a forum thread you might want to visit for future help:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221589

Nice pictures on the link but you have to click on many of them individually in order to view.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

check rad fan to see if its comming on or is wore out and running slow your bike overheats in traffic because theres not enough air flow to cool the water flowing in the radiator like at highway speeds

When you are on the bike and riding do you still have the choke out? And stop spraying starter fluid into the carbs..bad bad bad.... bikes start with out that stuff and if you need it then something is wrong.. your gonna mess something up doing that....let me know about the choke and we will go from [email protected]

Possible solution: Cleaning the main jets in the carbs. They are separate from the idle jets and would explain what you are seeing. Dis-assembly of the carburetors most likely required. Although I had a bike that you could access the main jets for inspection and cleaning by removing a large threaded plug from the bottom of each carb. Second way without removing the carbs is to remove just the bowls with a short or specialized screwdriver (and a lot of patience). I'm sure no shop would recommend this however.

Good luck,
Techjoel

The only reason to change it would be an oil leak you can't fix. Keep the oil reasonably clean and there should be no problems.

Please rate this answer. Thanks!

Hello,


Try to unscrew the sparkplug and place the edge of it against the moto exterior cilinder, start the bike see if it sparks, if not you have to check the electric CDA of the bike.

Hope that helps.

Good possibility, You can check the out put voltage of the pickup coil. This has to be done with a "peak reading volt meter". There are some commercially available adaptors to insert in a standard volt meter for this check. With adapter installed, meter set to DC volts the reading across the leads from the pick up coil should be 3-7 volts at cranking speed. You should also confirm that you have battery voltage with the key & engine stop switch on at the cdi box as well as a good ground. I believe on a Suzuki this will be the orange/ white for battery voltage and the black will need to have contininity to ground. Also the orange/white at each coil should have battery voltage with key and engine stop switch on.

Change your coil

Does this motorcycle have a radiator if so, make sure it's full if it is go online and see if there's a sensor that shuts the bike down when it gets too hot. Maybe there's something wrong with that

compresion tsest could be a slightly bent valve, or valve too tight, inlet side.

bad fuel ? clean out carby and filter then if no spark at the plugs start at coil

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c I would check the coils, leads and plug cap. Check the video to see how.