2008 kawasaki Z750 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

spray your switch with light oil ie wd40 ...no contact is being made ....and I mean your light switch not your ignition....infact spray them both it will not harm the and when you have don't forget to work them

Hi Sounds like you have a faulty connector/wiring to the display unit, most likely a bad connector (known as a dry joint) leading from the ECU junction relay box. Dry joints/circuits a sensitive to vibration! Getting the wiring checked by an auto electrician to make sure where the fault is actually in the wiring. If the fault is a dry joint in the wiring, re-soldering the connector will fix the fault. If the fault is a bad wire, replacement of the wire will fix the fault. If the fault is a dry circuit in the display unit, replacement of unit necessary(costly & worst case). Have a full Kawasaki service manual for the bike on an USB STICK in PDF form with you, when you take the bike to the auto electrician, it will help them find the fault quicker & cheaper. If you haven't got a full service manual, you can download PDF file from the internet, the cost very minimal compared to a printed manual. When I had my problem with the electrics on my Z750S, the fault was with the connectors(dry joints) and re-soldering them solved the issue! Hope this helps

Possible water damage to head light relay in the fuse box under the seat or the stator which controls the head light relay. Get a auto electrician to do an trace check on the wiring & connections to rule out all other faults. If the lights cut out after an heavy bump and come back on after a set time, the fault could be the relay or stator. Have the auto electrician resolder the relay connections in the fuse box (about 40 connections), also have an 12v LED warning light fitted to the stator connections with enough wiring so the LED can be mounted on the handle bar. If the LED cuts out the stator is at fault(very costly), if the LED stays on the head light relay is at fault. Also better waterproof the standard fuse box , the case is not that waterproofed (easy done with insulation tape). Hope this helps.

Sounds like you may have a probblem with your master cyl. It could be bypassing the seals inside. Does it drift off when holding?If there is no external leak problem is usualy here. Try replaceing brake fluid use only specafied fluid wrong fluid will ruin system.Bleed brakes.If still pursists master cyl needs rebuilt or replaced.

Look at the sidewall of your tire for proper inflation information.

HI,
You can check the forum below , may this would help
http://www.riderforums.com/showthread.php?t=48744

Thanks for using Fixya
proton

best bet go to the dealer check for after market parts from parts unlimited, street, LP "lockhart phillips" or pay the price for an O.E.M

Hi,

To my knowledge and on most versions/models, the battery would often be located under the seat. In your particular model, I believe the air cleaner box has likewise to be removed to gain access.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

only one wire is 12v other is neg , coil fires when the neg is grounded not sure if your bike has pulse generator this sends signal for coil to ground at correct time look on you tube for coil test primary and secondary there are two dual fire coils on that bike

sounds like bent sifter forks

Error Code # 34 - Exhaust butterfly valve actuator sensor malfunction, wiring open or short. Error Code # 35 - Immobilizer amplifier malfunction (Equipped Models) These are the exact error codes from the service manual itself. Good luck.

Remove it and connect it to a battery charger. That should do it!

The other one probably goes to the reserve tank which is sometimes separate from the main tank.

If they are KAWASAKI pads, they should be fine.

dude your engine should have about five or six main bolts holding it in place unless you know what your upto would take it to a dealer without driving it to far but as an extreme temporary solution put a jack under the engine and slowly lift it up place the jack under the weaker side ie side the engine dropped also if ya get the engine up to put the bolt back in run the engine for a bit to make sure nothing else has been affected by the drop and smell for exhaust fumes coming from header pipes best of luck mate but do take to a dealer for a check if it is second hand

take the carbs off and clean them out ,the idle jets sound like they are a bit choked up ,this is caused where its not used every day and the petrol dries out leaving a white film which builds up and eventually blocks the jets

STANDERD RULE ANY ENGINE 10%-15% BUT THATS LOW MILAGE UNLESS YOU SEE A REALY BIG DIFFENCE ON ONE CYLINDER YOUR PROBELY OK IF ITS A LITTLE MORE AS LONG AS THERE ALL FOUR CLOSE IN PSI AND THAT DEPENDES ON YOUR COMPRESSITION RAITO BORE STROKE AND TYPE OF RINGS

Originally Posted by whitehendrix - your ECU has a reduced voltage input from a resistor in the key switch's contact block. if that resistor burns up (common, unfortunately) you'll have 12 volts everwhere, and no power on the gray wire from the keyswitch harness. that gray wire has less than 12 volts on it (i can't remember exactly what the voltage is). this will cause you to *not have fuel delivery, (the fuel pump is powered from a pulse fed relay. the pulse is source from the #1/#4 sparkplug coil.), *no spark, *and the bike will have power everywhere, but won't start.





-the little black junction/fuse box under the seat contains two relays on a printed circuit board. one is the headligt relay, and the other is a relay the operates the starter solenoid. this little relay will not always work, and when you push the start button, the bike won't always start because of it. i'm working on a cure!!

Check for cable binding.

Some older bikes (don't know what year yours is) have an engine vacuum line that allows fuel to run once the engine starts. (Starts with the fuel that was already sitting in the carb's) If you put a vacuum hand pump and start to pull vacuum, the fuel will flow...
Otherwise, something may be plugged.