20 Most Recent 2008 kawasaki KLR 650 Questions & Answers

it should have done no harm providing that you connected the charger positive to positive and negative to negative however if the battery has a bad cell , then charging it will achieve nothing as that bad cell takes all of the charge and does nothing have the battery load tested , then have the charge circuit of the bike tested properly by a bike auto electrician

Had the same problem on a 2008 KLR 650. It would run but only when the choke was on and no added throttle. Add throttle and it would die.Took the carburetor apart and reinstalled is several time before I found the issue. One of the very small return tubes running through the carburetor was clogged. It is so small it didn't even look like a return tube in the carb. It seems to have failed during storage and gas varnishing in the tube. Carb cleaner and compressed air finally cleaned it out. It looks like a jet but it isn't and it does come out with a straight blade. Make sure it fits so you don't damage it. This is not the main jet. but it is next to it. Found it looking like a solid and not even a tube. Again very small. This fixed the issue and it runs great again. The issue is from bad gas. Don't forget to add Stable or some other additive to keep the carb from gumming up or getting nasty inside. Problem #2, broken Choke cable nut. The factory one is plastic and will crack under heat cycles and time and well just working on the carburetor. Buy this metal one to repair: http://www.steadengineering.com/product.sc;jsessionid=D6F227A0DCEF8E87895CC3C92FFBE743.m1plqscsfapp06?productId=2&categoryId=1. Bought one and yup you will never have another trouble with it again. Made by Stead Engineering . Worth the money for get piece of mind.

the shifter shaft is BROKEN and you need to get a new one

Sounds like a blown fuse.

Air filter blocked ?

check the tag on your frame it should list the recommended tire pressure if not its listed on the tire itself.

I have seen Rotella T recommended, but also any good make of 10W40 for winter use (if cold) and 20W50 for summer use. My contribution to this is to use an oil from a reputable company that has the backing of a major petroleum manufacturer.

Until you locate the correct place, you can put your fuel selector to PRI or PRIME if that valve has that setting.
However, there should be little barbed pipes coming from the carburetors, and all will be capped but one...that's where it goes.

Find a manual here:

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

G Good Luck and ride safe

My friend, your head light is about 60 watts at 12 volts. Any waterproof switch rated above 12 volts - 100 watts will be plenty of switch.

It is true that the headlight comes on when you switch on the ignition. It stays on for about 5 seconds, in my case, before I press the start button, at which time the light goes off for the start sequence. You could do the math on the actual amount of power you take from the battery before you start the bike. OHM's law applies. I will tell you this, if it is enough to make the difference between starting and not starting, it is time for a new battery. Your head light is your main safety device telling others you are present. If you do this MAKE SURE YOU GET YOUR LIGHT BACK ON before you go riding.

You can make this change but I STRONGLY URGE YOU NOT TO DO THIS. First trouble is finding and mounting a switch that is and will remain water proof. If there is a question about the quality of your battery, replace it. Expect to pay about $65.00. Anytime you modify a vehicle wiring harness, there is danger of compromising your system. Be careful with your wires.

Good riding to you my friend. It is cold where I am ... it will be a while before I can go out again.

The plastic side panels come off with a #3 phillips screwdriver, then the two seat hold down bolts are revealed. the front of the seat is not bolted it just slide out. when you put it back on, put some white lithium grease on the front seat attachment fork piece to eliminate rubbing/squeaking noises

City driving 2000 to 3000 miles. Highway driving/touring 3000 to 5000 miles. It really depends on the driving conditions. When your oil is worn out your engine will actually sound different. 2000 to 3000 seems like a short interval but if the oil is thrashed or dirty it should be changed. I have heard it is a waste of money to change the oil too frequently, but, if the dirt is thick enough in the oil to affect how the engine runs, then it is time to dump out the dirt and put in some fresh oil. Highway and long distance riding is not as hard on the oil and builds up dirt deposits at a slower rate. Just remember to use an oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for hot climate/touring. Any oil that says Energy Conserving on the lable should not be used in your bike. It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Synthetic oil will help your bike run smoother , cooler , and shift easier.

Hi ,
Battery can colapse and die instantly .
Test your battery first by unplugging it and run a wire from the positive to negative and see if it spark ,
If it does nothing ...its dead
if it spark , check the main fuse .
Check all these and get back to me and if you have not found your problem i will try to give you advises

Ignition timing sounds like it's out. Adjust the distributor clockwise or counter until it runs nice. If you hear pinging you've gone too far. A little extra advance is good and you'll gain a peppier motor.

Vote for me please :)

http://www.drumhillcycle.com/ Try this site.

This was a recall from kawasaki

we had a klr that had the same thing going on with it our mech. found that the spark plug wire at the coil was loose. Not sure what is wrong with your bike but that is something it look at. check your valve adj. too. it looks like this guy is pretty up to speed. check it out
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html

You should try adjusting the carbs after changing or cleaninf the air filter. See whatthat dies for you. Good Luck