20 Most Recent 2008 kawasaki Ninja 250R - Page 9 Questions & Answers

adjust the slack in the brakes as too tight can make the brakes ht & expand thus engage slightly!

2008 ninja 250s side fairings have 4 allen key screws on each side ( 2 diff. kinds) as well as 3 larger plastic locker pins that hold the fairings together at the bottom as well as 3 smaller ones on each side attaching to the headlight fairing undercover

ok i have one and i just fixed mine you need to drain the fuel from bottom of carbs and drain the tank also. then replace the spark plugs once you do that add new fuel in tank and drain the carbs again unitil good fule start runing out then shut them off. aftre that make sure there are two line connected to the petcock from the carb. spray soem starting fluid in the air box and chock it boom it will start. if it has spark.

chris

fresh gas and sparkplugs should clean it up. also check your air filter, they make common homes for mouse nests.

doess the antifreeze come out when not in overheat? sounds like a head gasket. Open radiator cap, engine cold and running. If you see bubbles, you got troubles

follow it from the speedometer if you can... it goes to the front wheel normally

Twice a year or every 4000 miles.

Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. If in a hot area like Texas or New Mexico go with 20w50.

You don't just top it up... replacing the oil consists of removing the forks, disassembly, cleaning, filling with an exact measured amount of the correct weight of fork oil, reassembly, reinstallation.
Doesn't sound like it's a job you should tackle - seeing as how you don't know where the oil goes, and all.

seems like its sticking to the gasket, use a bit of force with a screwdriver with some tape on it to protect finish and pry it off

This should help alot.

Just replace the oil, its cheap enough to do and costs less than rebuilding the engine.
the white foam on the oil cap is normal its just fine water particals built up, change the oil and take the bike on a run.
so does the bike run fine with the jet kit and exhaust change ? you dont explain your self well.

when you see the velly of the bike, you could find big hole cap which is oil filter. Take it off and replace it. Next to the cap, there is a bolt same size as the cap bolt which is oil tank cap bolt. When you screw the bolt, the oil will plow out. Let it plow untill done. Put the bolt back when it empty. Right side of the bike and middle of the foot fade, you could find a refill cap. Replace oil untill the oil fill up enough. Back side of foot fade, There is a oil check. Between full and poor would be fine.

the dealer ship can print that out for you at no charge or should.

adjust the air fuel mix screw it is running too leen

As carbon particles accumulate in the oil, the oil will become more acidic, and it is wise to change it before storage. That said, your bike is barely broken in, I wouldn't worry about it.

Consult you manual, you may want to switch to a synthetic. Pay attention to If your gearcase/clutch uses the same oil sump as your engine, this may limit your choice of oil.

You should follow your manual with the adjustments & such if possible (chain, etc.) especially as things are new and just starting to settle in. Most of it can probably be done by you and your friend with some basic tools. You'll save yourself a lot of $$$. Also you may want to pick up a service manual.

if there is no free play when pulling the lever in, the bike will most likely take off from first gear, but when you throttle it, the clutch will most likely slip. if the lever is to loose, lots of free play, you may have a hard time getting it in gear. approx 1/4 inch free play with the lever and it will work normal... unless its ready for a new clutch. hope this helps...

yes.

Measure the charging circuit.Stator output voltage (all three against ground), regulator-rectifier.
The stator should have an output of 13-14V at 2000rpm and rising while you turn the gas more open.The regulator should have a constant 13.5-14.5V at 3000rpm even when you turn on the high beams.Rising rpm should not change the reading on the battery's poles (regulator output)

Bad contacts on the battery posts from corrosion can rob the spark of 40% of its power on start. Make sure the battery is fresh with a good overnight charge and make sure the posts are really clean. You may also have a bad voltage regulator. I keep a spare in the garage so I can swap out a part I think might be bad. 11 years on the old one could mean time for a change....

after it warms up and shuts off, pull out a spark plug and check for spark.. if there is none, your coil is breaking down.