20 Most Recent 2006 kawasaki ER-6n Questions & Answers

2008 and same problem,but with no headlights;checked all the normal things,thought it was ignition,but now back to battery ,same problem as guy o0n you tube,so think i,ll replace battery,,,

if there is no locking tag then the nut tightens up in the revers way the sprocket turns in drive

i am assumeing you want the part no for the front disc rotor this can be obtained from any kawasaki dealership

manuel says 32 front and 41 back tires say 41/41 i run manual pressure and get a smooth ride

The max pressure is on the side of the tire; look close. Set the air pressure to how you want the bike to ride. 20 lbs and the bike is mushy and soft and pretty squirrely on the corners. 45 lbs and the ride is like a rock. Probably 35 lbs is a pressure you can be pleased with.

A bucket for soapy water Soap or liquid detergent; automotive cleaners will work Gloves (to keep your hands clean) Bug and tar remover Degreaser and/or engine cleaner A toothbrush WD40 A brush for wheel cleaning Wheel cleaner At least two microfiber or 100% cotton sponges A variety of soft cotton towels and more abrasive rags A chamois cloth for drying

depends on what material is stained.. Aluminium stains can be very tricky to get clean if not impossible...some cleaners will also cause a orange/reddish stain wich will not come out unless you use some harsh chemicals to get them out. problem is it's hard to get to those chemicals. IF you happen to have a truck wash nearby where they wash the big trucks (18 wheelers)take your parts there and tell them to use some brightener on it , it's a chemical that really cleans aluminium.it may cost you a little bit of money but that stuff really works and i haven't been able to find that stuff for private sale anywhere. the number 2 reasons for stains on the bike are : 1) waiting to long to wash the bike , some types of sand/mud especially the red dirt we have down south here will stain a bike if you leave it on the bike , not only that it dries as hard as concrete and is very difficult to remove , so was your bike ASAP. 2) washing chemicals. Some chemicals / soaps when they are left too long on aluminium will leave stains as it reacts with the aluminium , these stains are almost impossible to get out.

check all hoses are fully connected and in good order and check fuel on/reserve switch

To remove/unlock the seat on a Kawasaki er-6f find a circular hole under the plastic seat fairing half-way along the seat on the left-hand side. Using the ignition key twist the lock set in the hole

This answer is printer on the tires. Usually around 44 pounds, on many tires. Typically at full load you push pressure to that point, and when running lighter, drop 4 to 6 pounds, or so. Anything else and the TIRE will now work as designed.

warm the engine to HOT/operating temperature...
if you've found the plug..(nothing else would look or be shaped like it no doubt)
cool JUST the plug down quickly with ice cubes or an upside down can of compressed air or A/C refridgerant sprayed on it.
(tap it first with a hammer on the flat side facing you of course)
use correct size socket(try several for tight fit-SAE or Metric)or try the new type sockets that grab the sides of the nut if you can or can borrow one.-they sell them at AuotZone or other stores..
like the Metrinch tools (check eBay or Amazon.com--worth the price bc they WORK !!)
also check APEX sockets on eBay for the one you need..nice sockets
Good luck!

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)

We are in North America, so this link might work better for you than it does for me. I can only find a Parts Catalogue and an Owner Manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+kaze+zx130+service+manual ..

I'm assuming you have already checked the actual bulb is still OK? The bike uses a 'twin element' bulb so the tail light element might still work but the brake light element has blown. It's designed to be two bulbs in one so it takes up less space.On a lot of vehicles some electrical features share a fuse and only some of them are marked on the fuse box lid. Has anything else stopped working? On some Kawasaki bikes the brake light shares a fuse with the horn and the tail light so if the fuse has blown all three won't be working. Check the fuse labelled as the Horn to see if that has 'Popped'.*NOTE* ONLY replace fuses with one of the SAME Amp rating as lower 'A' fuses will blow and higher 'A' fuses won't protect your electrics.Bulbs and fuses are usually cheap to buy so you could replace them anyway before thinking it's going to be a 'Big' repair.