Top 20 2006 kawasaki KX 250 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Put the piston in with the mark on the top of the piston facing the exhaust port of the cylinder. put one circlip in the piston in the bore seated correctly in the groove. place piston over rod facing correct direction and insert wristpin into piston and through the rod needle bearing in the top of the rod. insert other circlip and seat correctly in groove. install compression rings with letter or any markings facing up. markings usually located at end gap on either side. install oil ring with straight ring on top squiggly ring in center and straight ring on bottom all in the same groove which will be the lowest groove on the piston.stagger all the ring end gaps. do not let all the gaps line up. install base gasket on engine case. clean everything and make sure everything stays clean. slide cylinder over piston and compress rings with fingers and finesse cylinder over piston. do not force. put nuts on studs and tighten to spec in service manual. install head gasket correctly and put head on and put nuts on studs. tighten to spec. reassemble rest of motorcycle and get hurt! have fun

Sounds like your syncros are out of wack or a worn clutch. Check to see if they need adjusting call a shop for service). try making sure the fluid is at the proper level also

try a coil on another bike that would be my bet then get back to me buddy

U ARE GOING TO HAVE TO GO THROUGH THE CARBS, THE DRIED GAS IS HOLDING THE INLET FUEL VALVE OPEN IN THE FLOAT BOWL, EVEN IF U STOP THE VALVE FROM LEAKING i WILL BET IT WON'T IDLE OR REV UP, PULL THE CARBS OFF AND OVERHAUL THEM, DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF AGGRESSIVE CLEANER CARB DIPS, THAT WILL DESTROY THE CARBURETORS, ORDINARY SPRAY CARB CLEANER AND COMPRESSED AIR WILL DO, U WILL ALSO FIND THAT ALL THE RUBBER PARTS ARE DIESTROYED AS WELL SO PLAN ON REPLACING THEM, YOU MAY WANT TO FLUSH THE GAS TANK OUT AS WELL..

On a 2 stroke bike cause of smoke is due to excess oil in the fuel oil mixture, incomplete combustion in the cylinder or the engine oil finding it way in through the piston rings into the firing chamber. Check the oil levels and clean the plugs, which must be black in color by now, so replace if possible and if engine oil is low, the change the piston rings. Also look up the carburetor jets/nozzles are clean and the engine gets the correct fuel/air mixture by adjusting both fuel and air jets(turns)...sodeep

Either the clutch is mal/over adjust or the clutch plates are gone.

make sure you clean the fuel tank, petcock, change the oil. old fuel does not work, dump the old fuel and buy the best gas you can get

take off the brake line to the caliper and press the brake slowly. look for fluid coming out of the line. if it is not then you would need a master cyl rebuild or new one. if fluid is comeing out then open the bleeder valve slowly press the brake over and over till caliper is filled then bleed as nessisary. hope this helps. i have an ase certification in brakes so just try it out

There is pressure in the crankcase when the engine is running and when you rev it up this pressure increases. Oil pressure inceases with RPM and yes the oil will get frothy under pressure.

If you suspect the drain plug is leaking then remove the plug and wrap the threads with teflon tape and reinstall the plug, this should prevent the plug from leaking.

Selecter forks could be damaged, gear shift shaft bent, return spring faulty, clutch dragging maybe! Try rocking it backwards and forwards engine off and see if you can find that gear! Good Luck - The Yeti

I assume you need to know how to re-assemble the clutch. You may also need some parts.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Viewing the parts diagram will show you you how the clutch goes together. Post a comment if you need any further information.


Please top rate this solution. Thanks!

Break in is just riding the bike easy for an hour, shifting through the gears w/o high revs. Now go out to the woods and have fun. Change gearbox oil after about 20 hours of riding to remove metal contaminates from the full break in.

Top rating due on this answer! Thanks arenacross91!

You will need a flywheel puller you can purchase from denniskirk.com or other mc tool outlet. This is a must tool. Otherwise you can do the job with simple hand tools such as wrenches, allen wrenches all metric of course, and a rubber mallet. It will take about two hours to disassemble. your crank will have to be rebuilt by a shop with a crank jig and a press. the halves must be aligned perfectly. then wash everything very good make sure you have all the exploded bearing cleaned out then make sure again, and reassemble. best wishes!

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. Your output shaft is in stock, $96.97.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Please top rate this solution. Thanks! :D

I think your mate is right try pushing the bike to get it going then once fired up & cleared out should be fine. Put choke on full kick fully 2x then take choke off completely, kick again.

Steve

I am not sure what you mean on the "running fast" statement. If idle speed then turn the idle screw outward to slow down the idle.

The backfire is caused by turning off the ignition key when the bike is at high revs. let it idle down THEN turn it off. The backfire is there because the carb idle circuit is active anytime the piston is in motion. Gas goes into the cylinder as the bike revs down then a hot spot in the exhaust pipe finally ignites the built up gas. There is your backfire.

Is the running fast question answered? Give me more information on the problem if it isn't.

Please rate this answer. Thanks njv6!

what do you need to know i might be able to help you???? http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

hello sounds like the head gasket could have failed. with the bike cold, if you can take the radiator cap off and rev the bike. if the fluid seems to rapidly change level, and start to foam up, or shoot out. then yes there is a fault with the head gasket. and keep in mind more severe would be a cracked head or cylinder. both should be inspected if the head gasket does not show signs of leakage.

Engine Top End:
Auto Decompressor Bolt 104 in·lb
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 87 in·lb
Cylinder Head Bolts: M10 36 S
M6 104 in·lb S

the S in that means the specified pattern ... just like tightening car tire bolts... please note all that it its INCH lbs....

don't know why it says just 36 for the M10 bolts unless they left out inch lbs

Anything else let me know as i've got a manual for the 250 f... actually i've got a few different ones

Robert

Please take a moment to rate this solution as i've taken a few minutes to find the manual thanks

Low speed screw 1.5 turns out from bottomed. Middle position for clip #3 position.
I never rely on the factory settings for the low speed screww, set it to factory and keep adjusting it 1/8 turn at a time until idle sounds best and quick throttle blips dont sound "stumbly" the later being the most important.

The needle position is for low altitude.