2005 kawasaki KX 250 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check:
1 coolant level
2 coolant flow (the water pump fins could be damaged)
3 radiator fins are clean and clear of mud and debris

Does it not engage (drive) or disengage (releaase)?

fork oil capacity is 578 to 586cc

First, get a new clutch cable. Tape the new cable to the old one and unhook the old one. Now you have a new cable and a reserve cable ready for use if needed during a race.

Second, change gearbox oil and install a new oil filter if your bike has one. All the dirt and grit in the oil is binding the clutch. Ride the bike for a couple of hours using the clutch often. Now drain the oil again and put in fresh oil. This will flush out the dirt and grit. Use 10w40 motor oil. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.

Take some duct tape and put it around the shape of the new port opening. Now put on a second layer of duct tape. This does two things. First it outlines the size and shape of the revised port, and second when the rotary grinder skips out of the port, (as it is going to do a bunch of times), the grinder bit won't nick up the cylinder wall.

The only polishing needed is on the face of the new port area. Give the burned gas a smooth exit into the exhaust pipe. Don't go too extreme on the changes. Too much and you loose performance. This is the voice of experience talking.

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if its fully adjusted and it is still too soft then it will need to be replaced. you may be able to just replace the coil spring only. check with local MX dealer

yes and no Yes it will run with the power valve out but it will be a dog.

you need to find somebody to put a patch on it, I patched mine after having a screw through it and I drove it for another 3,000 miles with no issues. A lot of people say you can't patch them but its bs and I personally did it.

Sometimes you need input rotation to properly align gears spin the crankshaft a little then try.

Are you sure the torque specs posted are correct? They seem a little strange to me

Here's how I'd try to fix the clutch: 1.) Try to adjust the cable at the handlebar; usually there's a little bid of clutch lever travel (like 1/4"-1/2") before the clutch disengages. For right now, adjust the clutch so that there isn't any play and the adjustment all the way out. If the clutch disengages the transmission, then you know you have to fiddle with the cable to get it adjusted properly. 2.) The clutch plates could be sticking: here you'd have to take the clutch cover off and get to the clutch. Remove the clutch (usually an impact is ideal for removing the clutch holding nut. Take the clutch apart (steels and clutches), make sure they aren't sticking together. Then dip the clutches in oil, then reassemble. 3.) Sometimes the clutch basket (holds all of the clutches and steels in a "basket") gets grooves in it. These grooves prevent the clutch from disengaging. Sometimes you can file the clutch basket fingers down to remove the grooves. Alternatively, if the clutch basket fingers are really worn, you may have to replace the clutch basket. Typically, when your in the clutch side of the engine case, I'd examine 2 and 3 (above) at the same time.

1996 KX250T

check for the fuel filter in the bottom of the gas tank attached directly to the outlet

most ignition problems are simple 3 parts - fuel / fire / air from everything you've already worked on, it seems you must set your IGNITION to FIRE on time at higher rpm .

First, did it break or is it bent or is it stripped? These all require different approaches once you get the right side of the engine clear, clutch removed, etc... TAKE PICTURES WHILE YOU ARE DOING THIS to make sure you put everything back where it belongs. Do you have a clutch hub holder? (IMPORTANT) Do you have a air wrench, you will have a large clutch nut (24-26MM?) to remove and then reinstall the nut with the correct torque! If you do not have these tools, PLEASE take it to a PROFESSIONAL. He will have all the tools necessary. If the shift shaft is broke or bent it is going to be more difficult because it is a tight fit through the engine cases, they are aluminum and they will break if the shaft is forced out!! You will have to carefully saw the shaft off CLOSE to the case as possible before attempting to remove it. If its just stripped, it can be filed or sanded down, cleaned, and removed easily. Change the shift shaft seal too!!! If this is your first time to try this... and you don't have any of the tools I mentioned, PLEASE take it to a professional!!

Bent shift fork is your problem.1st and 2nd working fine,wont go into 3rd,replace the shift fork and stop being so hard on the shifter.Costs a lot of money to fix these toys.

Hi, i am sorry but you dont say what the model of your machine is, this would help me determing the correct, answers for your questions, most kickstart springs can be changed by simply removing the clutch cover followed by the kickstarter shaft and then replacing the spring, make a note of kickstart stop location carefully remove the shaft holding the gears together replace the spring followed by the. Replacing the shaft and tensioning the spring before cover replacment, oil,etc. Some machines the shaft and spring is inside the centre cases and a complete engine strip is ness

sounds like a air leak. check the gasket around the reed block

A weld will ruin the temper of the metal, it will fail. A rim that cracked probably is weak elsewhere.

i promise u its the carb buy the whole unit