Top 20 2005 kawasaki KX 250 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

try craigslist or call your local motorcycle salvage yard good luck

65PSI is way to low. It probably won’t run at 88PSI either. Put a small drop of engine oil (20w50 or similar) into the cylinder and do the compression test again. If there is a big improvement in compression it means the piston rings are worn and you will have to do a top-end overhaul. As a very rough guide you need 150PSI for a 4 stroke engine and about 120PSI for a 2 stroke engine.

It is not necessary to change the oil after every ride. Unless you are talking over 1000 miles each ride. A little water in the oil will not hurt. Especially if you are going to rebuild the engine this winter. And you can use any gear oil that is 80w or higher. Walmart sells some in a blue bottle. I am sure that you have a blown head gasket. You can try some radiator stop leak in the radiator also. This may seal the head gasket temporarily.

What model - year - etc>??

Sounds like a head gasket leak or cracked head

dirty air filter bike not getting enough air to run and there for too rich a mixture!

You mean cylinder jug? You don't hone the heads, but they do have special tools for polishing the valve seats. Usually they just spin the valves with a drill motor and some grinding compound to get them to seat tight, water tight. The jugs are honed out with a big brush that looks like something a chimney sweep would use. It has polishing stones on the ends of the bristles. but, they do that after the jugs are bored, they have honing stones for crosshatching the bores, kinda smooths them out. If you don't bore out the cylinders, use one of them. Check it out.

no its not right,, check the limit screw first to see if its backed off to much allowing the throttle to drop below the idle point, if this isn't the problem,, the carb itself need to be adjusted

Yes, that is a plated cylinder so if it galls, or wears out, it cannot be bored out you have to put a new sleeve in it. The new sleeve will be able to be bored out so it will last for a long time. The resleeving is best left to a cycle shop or machine shop with the propper equipment, as it is an interfearence fit and the cylinder must be bored perfectly, then heated in an oven to be able to install the new sleeve.

You have a couple jets in there, one might be clogged up, they are not adj, but your idle should be adjustable, You can take up the slack in the cable for a higher idle, If that doesn't do it, you have to get the slow speed jet going.Sometimes a squirt of carb cleaner will fix it, sometimes you have to take the whole thing apart and soak it in cleaner, then run a wire through every jet. Hope this helps.

torque it back down to 72 ft lb.

Look in eBay, Google, local wrekers or dealers

Do you by chance mean cylinder head?

If they have the same port locations and same bore dimensions they should be swappable.

You can look online at Kawasaki and see if the replacement parts have the same part number too.

50 50 mix

If it is synthesized yes.We were using these in the 2 stroke racing competition at some point and are good.

Spray starter fluid into the throttle body if it still refuses to start, consider the timing chain or belt.

Hi. Go to this link and get the clymer book that will answer all of your questions and show you step by step how to do the overhaul

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/kawkx19.html

there are a few ways and a few opinions once the nut is tightened down to proper specs the first set of threads that are exposed at edge of nut needs to be dimpled with a good center punch it actually damages those threads so if nut loosens it will not turn past those threads I personally do not like i like to apply red loctite to threads before installing nut i have never seen a nut with red loctite back off on its on you usually have to apply heat to remove a little trouble but i think better than damaging the threads if you have to remove it again some just say muscle thru it meaning when you go to remove it again you will have to overcome those damaged threads somehow my luck i would end up having to buy new nut and whatever else i stick by my locktite. hope this helps

A clutch is nothing more than a bunch of plates held together by the clutch cable which just pulls it. First thing is you need to release the cable to see if you have a cable issue If it checks out ok then your going to have to remove the side cover and determine if the inside broke or is jammed. Its pretty basic. Its possible the clutch disks are worn out and will need to be replaced. If you still skeptical about doing this best bet is to get a haynes book for diagrams.

hi,i assume you are referring to the centre nut in the centre of the clutch basket,as far as i know there is no shortcut,you will either have to make a holding tool to hold the clutch centre,if you have an old steel friction plate you can weld a handle to it and that will be sufficent to let you undo the nut,if you dont have any spares your only option will be to go to the agent and see if you can borrow the tool for doing it.alot of people(myself included) have tried to use a screw driver to lock the centre hub to the clutch basket,but i would not recommend trying it as it is very easy to damage the alloy splines that the clutch plates run in,you will then end up with a binding clutch if you damage them...hope this helps...cheers