20 Most Recent 2004 kawasaki KX 250 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Replace the sleeve is the only option - I think there would not be enough cylinder wall left if you rebored it as it is a sleeved cylinder it relys on the sleeve for extra wall thickness and strength you can rehone the sleeve if it is not too badly scratched you can get honing tools around $80 ish? they fit into cordless drill

Please check your jetting ( main & pilot ). Are they work. Check also your floating valve for stuck. A stuck floating valve will not allow the fuel flow.

Regards

A couple of possibilities- - Float is corroded and not floating - Valve either gummed up or worn and stuck - Float level not properly set
Typical float valves
Typical floats

does it have spark and are the rings in right aliment and is the gas on i have made that mistake

The reason the system will not pump fluid is because there is air in the master cylinder pump. Typically, air trapped in the master cylinder is the cause of the lack of pressure. Cover your paint and plastic first with a plastic bag and then with a towel in case of spillage. Now loosen the banjo bolt on the master cylinder just enough to let allow fluid to leak out when you pump the master cylinder. Pump the master cylinder until you get a big push of DOT 3/4 brake fluid at the banjo bolt(usually 2 or 3 pumps). Now tighten the banjo bolt and bleed the system (slave cylinder) to get the rest of the air out. Be careful to keep DOT 3/4 brake fluid in the reservoir. Do not pump it dry, if you **** air into the master cylinder you will have to start all over again.

good day please check your engine oil and if its o.k check carburetor clean your clean your airbox,check also your sparkplug and your high tension wire and try to start tnx.

there is no ryme or reason on vin #'s like there used to be, it is usually a letter out in the middle. you about have to call a dealer

Yes it will still run just a little ruff and may die after just a few seconds

A 250 is a pretty strong bike. I would suggest something like a 125 or 175cc. You can always trade it in or sell it when you are ready to go bigger and that way you are not getting in over your head. Be sure any bigger bike like the 250 has an electric starter. A kick starter on a 250 can break your leg if the bike fires early. The 250 also weighs about 75 pounds more than a 125. Pretty hard to manhandle a 250 in the woods and an inadvertent twist of the throttle can pop a wheelie that can bring the bike right down on top of you. That kinda hurts. Please rate my answer. Thanks and best wishes.

Not really use small screwdriver and slowly tap it with small hammer in side of the wall but be careful do not spoil the housing.

This is general info as there are many models of kawasaki
There is usually a spring and ball bearing, or spring loaded lever,that holds the shift cam in position
The spring and ball is held in by a bolt that may look similar to a sump plug under the bike.(could be called an indent spring)
or the lever is in the rhs side cover under the clutch, if its not them. It could be a bent shift fork or worn shift drum, but these two require a major strip down.
See if you can get a manual with an exploded view of the gearbox for whatever model you have, and see what is most likely.

have u tried a hotter plug it worked on my car, also i add lead substitute to gas .try a performance coil and switch to electronic ignition also i did this to my bike and it ran a lot better.

Go to the site below then enter the serial number. The site ia a VIN decoder. The VIN will tell you all sorts of info, including the year. http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/kawasaki.asp

It could be caused by a worn/damaged selector or even just a clogged with mud/grit gear shift lever.

You are ok if you can see the oil in the sight glass. About halfway up the glass is about best, then you are sure that you are seeing oil and not a stained glass and that the crankcase is not too full.

Hi, you dont say what this bike is, is it. Two or four stroke engine, On a 2stroke this type of problem could simply be carbon jumping around between the gap on the plug,Or a crankshaft oil seal leaking,

The whole basket isn't all that great to take off....but if you are just changing the clutch plates, you won't need to remove the basket. There will be an outside pressure plate holding them all in there, usually 5 bolts hold that down (those 5 bolts also have the clutch springs under them) Pull that off, and inside there will be the part that your clutch pushrod moves to release tension on the plates (sorry forgot the name of it right now) make sure that when that comes off, that you don't lose the ball bearing behind it. Goodluck.

That could be the final drive bearing or wheel bearings or even a sticking brake.
If you place it on a paddock stand, turn the rear wheel by hand and you will be able to determine the fault.

Check and see if they have the same part number.

The torque specs for your cylinder base nuts are 25ft.-lb.and the head flange nuts at 18ft.-lb.tighten them in criss cross pattern,at three different stages,ex.25ft.-lb.start with 8 then15 then 25,18ft.-lb.start with 5 then 10 then 18.good to go.Hope this helps.