2002 kawasaki ZRX 1200 R - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi ,

Please check that all coils do have a good earth as this could be part of the problem .
if you have power with the new battery i would suggest to trace the power source from the battery to the coil with a tester but the earth is usually the trick .
Please let me know if you have all lights working , horn and the starter is turning the motor etc...

HI Dave, according with you discription of the problem (by the way very good explained) look like you have a problem with the wiring conection in some parts or the batery is no good (you don't say if it is new).If the batery is good then start removing every conection and clean it well (w40 is a very good cleaner) dry proply and back assembly the conection. First with the cable from the point of the batery to the main switch with all parts in betewen, like the black box you say (that is probably a relay). After this is finish, or before if you like, check the earth cable, remove it from both ends, at the batery point and at the point where is conected to the engine, I think may be it, the earth cable is the main cause of the problem. Be pacient and do step by step and I'm sure you will resolve the problem. If still it is no enough to resolve the matter, and you consider I'm of value to help you to resolve the problem, do not exitate and send me a message and I will help you with real plessure.
Cheers Oscar

Let it warm up set the idle and that is when it will idle correctly.

try denniskirk.com

USUALLY THIS IS A FUEL PROBLEM, OR COULD BE THE CARBS NEED BALANCING

Is this the sound of 4 pistons goin up an down???

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2005-kawasaki-zrx1200-zr1200a-clutch/o/m149151sch436013

What is the bike ?

Fairl straight forward job, start at the top avoiding any tight bends with the wheel clear of the ground insert the cable whie turning the wheel this will hellp locate the cable a small amount of grease wouldnt heart

The wires are not replaceable. They are part of the coils

Know that most shops will probably refuse to do repairs on your bike if it is more than 10 years old. Most all shops use this same standard. Parts availability is the main problem. In any event, below are things to look for if getting a used bike.

Does the engine start easy and idle smoothly? Does it accelerate without hesitation?
Any smoke when it starts or when pulling away from stop light? (Bad valve guides).
Any smoke when riding at 30mph? (Piston rings worn or possible previous seize up).
Does the clutch engage and disengage smoothly? Clutch lever easy to pull?
Any oil or coolant fluids leaking after a ride?
Do all gages work? Lights, horn and flashers?
Any red lights on the gages lit up? Any computer codes flashing?
Do front and back brakes operate and stop smoothly?
Is the motor oil pretty clean or really dirty? (Sign of how well the owner has cared for the bike).
Is the oil "white-ish"? (water in the oil. If motor is water cooled it's usually bad water pump seals).
Any funny sounds from the gear box? Anywhere else?
Does it shift smoothly up and down the full gear range? Neutral light come on properly?
Sprockets still have rounded tips not pointed? Well lubricated chain?
Good tires? How old is the battery? All lights work properly?
Is the upholstery good? Plastics cracked or broken?
Gas tank badly rusted inside? Do the wheels run true or weave?
Do the forks look bent from a side view or front view?
Does it drive nice or is the bike squirrely to drive? How about around curves and corners?
Ever been wrecked? What service work has been done in the past?
With the handlebars driving straight ahead, is the front wheel pointing a slightly different direction?
Do all accessories work properly?
Ask what doesn't work on the bike. What known problems do exist?
.
These are things to look for. I hope this helps.
A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)

We are in North America, so this link might work better for you than it does for me. I can only find a Parts Catalogue and an Owner Manual. https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+kaze+zx130+service+manual ..

I'm assuming you have already checked the actual bulb is still OK? The bike uses a 'twin element' bulb so the tail light element might still work but the brake light element has blown. It's designed to be two bulbs in one so it takes up less space.On a lot of vehicles some electrical features share a fuse and only some of them are marked on the fuse box lid. Has anything else stopped working? On some Kawasaki bikes the brake light shares a fuse with the horn and the tail light so if the fuse has blown all three won't be working. Check the fuse labelled as the Horn to see if that has 'Popped'.*NOTE* ONLY replace fuses with one of the SAME Amp rating as lower 'A' fuses will blow and higher 'A' fuses won't protect your electrics.Bulbs and fuses are usually cheap to buy so you could replace them anyway before thinking it's going to be a 'Big' repair.