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2002 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R Questions & Answers
Change fork seals Kawasaki GPZ 400
If you are not VERY mechanically inclined...and have the special tools required... .please take this to a professional!! it will be less expensive in the long run.!!
It takes some special tools that only dealers have.
I lost my key to
Before you attempt to take out the ignition, call a dealer and ask him if they can get you a key for your bike by using the VIN as reference. Harley and some metrics can do it this way.
No fire to the motor
check coil or wire from coil. could be blown fuse or bad brain...aka CDI in which case you could open it after locating it and possibly discover a bloated capacitor which you can snip off and solder in a new one for 2 bucks. at a radio shack or electronics parts store
Motorbike wont move
sidestand lockout switch is sticking...bike thinks that you're trying to ride away with the stand down so it kills the sparks.
How do u no if ur coil packs are fireing
If you have a wiring diagram, trace out the ignition system this way you trace problems. But you could pull the plugs and put them in the wire and ground it against the head, away from the spark plug hole, turn the engine over and see if it fires, i use a spark tester, but a known good plug will do. If there is no spark then check to see if you have volts at the primary side of coil "the little wires that hook to it test them with the ignition on" if no volts there then begin your volt chace checking all wire and connectors. You will need a multi meter ok. let me know how it goes, just takes patience and time k.
It drives great 1st gear
The cakey, white oil color is water emulsified with the oil. Rainwater, car wash spray, condensation in the tranny, rain water or sprinklers have contaminated the oil. If the tranny will not shift into a higher gear, there is a bent shift fork or two creating the problem. This can be a costly repair and is not recommended for the novice mechanic. Below is a diagram showing how the shift drum rotates to move shift forks left and right to change gears.
Took the carbs off toclean
I would say if you have not messed with the adjutments on your carbs , they are prob ok.
It sounds like if you drain your fuel, tank, all filters, what is left in the carbs
will work it self out, you can remove and drain either way. Go buy new spark plugs and filters
Charge your battery to full charge slow trickle while you working on the other . I am confident that you will be happy with the results .
How can i start a
boost it, it should stay running if the charging system is good, then you can check charging rate
Hi
i got a kawasaki
Kawasaki's are notorious for the waterpump seals going. There are little rubber doughnut seals (3 if i remember) that run along the impellor shaft. When these break down, you get the leak. I would be pretty certain on a bike of this age, that this is your problem. It isnt a massive job to do, but if your not technically minded it can get messy. The shaft is connected by a circlip on the opposite side to pump prop, and should, i emphisise the word SHOULD slide out, once the clip is released. But beware as ALOT of these become siezed and stuck fast, so some more dissasembly may be required. You can try taking off the cover and using a good instant gasket, providing that your running temp is fine, no water in the oil (if your lucky) but these cover seals are designed to pop if there is too much pressure behind them, hence me telling you about the impellor seals.
Hope this helps mate,
Mista B.
Need to clean radiator but
drain the coolant and fill with water and about a half cup of tide powder detergent, run the bike a while and drain, you will have to flush with water several times to remove all detergent before refilling with coolant.
My gpz500s keeps blowing the
assuming it is the correct amp fuse there is possibly a short in the system somewhere.
check for broken wires, often jammed by the steering head, damage to the switch blocks, or the head lamp or tail bulb can short out inside, remove these one at a time and see if this helps
Could you please explain briefly
My cheater method involves a lint free cotton sock. Cover cycle with plastic and old towel to protect the paint and plastic.Remove the master reservoir cover and carefully put the sock into the reservoir to soak up all the fluid (Be Careful not to pump the lever at all or air will get into the master). Remove the sock full of fluid and dispose of properly. Refill the reservoir with DOT 3/4 brake fluid. Put a small clear tube on to the slave cylinder bleeder nipple and place the other end in a pan or container. Now loosen the nipple and pump the old fluid out of the system till you see new clean fluid and retighten the nipple. Be careful not to run the reservoir out of fluid (top up as needed) or you will have to start all over). If you do not have pressure at the master cylinder you can bleed the master by loosening the banjo bolt holding the brake hose on and pumping the lever once or twice till the air is out and the unit is pushing fluid. Now bleed the system at the slave cylinder nipple.
I want to know what
Try 9 -11 kgf m or 62.5 - 80 lbf ft. If you do not have a torque wrench then do this as a rule of thumb. Tighten nut until snugly tight then give it 1/4 turn additional which should be about right amount of torque.
Good advise? Please return a comment, thnaks.
Not finding what you are looking for?
In the above picture inside the rectangular box area to the left of the push rod do you see the many actuator parts that the clutch has to push the rod and disengage the clutch? One of these is broken or has come loose and jammed the clutch release mechanism, you will need to pull the assembly apart and see what has gone wrong, no matter what it has to come apart for inspection. Here is the factory parts site where I got the diagram.
