20 Most Recent 2002 kawasaki KLX 300 R Questions & Answers

Source: kawasaki klx Fist, Shut off the fuel at the fuel tap. Second, remove the drain screw, and drain any remaining fuel from the float bowl. Reinstall the drain screw. Third, remove the two 8mm mounting bolts from the rear of the carburetor body. Step 4. Release the clamp, and remove the fuel line from the right side of the carburetor. Step 5. Remove the spacer from between the carburetor and the intake pipe.

Most likely stuck float . Disconnect the fuel line under the tank with the fuel valve turned to off. Once the line is off open the valve to see if any gas comes out. If so then follow the line to the carb. On the bottom of the carb there is a small pocket where the float bowl lives. There should be a drain plug in the bottom... remove it and see if anything comes out... hook the fuel line back up to the tank and open the valve .. If the float is stuck then no fuel will flow out of the float bowl. To clean it remove the 4 screws on the float bowl. Inside you will see a plastic or metal float... on the top is a needle valve that is supposed to move up and down freely. If not remove the wrist pin from the float.. It just pushes out but be careful it is small and easily lost. Once it is out pull gently down rotating slightly but not too rough. Once out ( make sure the fuel is off.) Clean the hole it came out of and wipe the crud off of the pin..the top of the pin will usually be made of soft rubber so do not use sand paper on the pin .. When you believe it is clean open the fuel to see if gas comes out.. If not then your going to have to do farther cleaning by removing the carb and soaking it in seafoam...... Do not use carb cleaner or you'll wreck your rubber and seals . If all goes well put the pin in the hole turn on the gas while pushing the pin up with your finger to see if any gas leaks past. If it does you will need to clean better inside the hole. If no gas turn off the fuel and reinstall the float and pin . Check to see if it moves freely.

Check that you're getting fuel and spark. Possible restriction in airbox. check for short in kill switch

There should be a cable that runs under the carb on the left hand side of the quad,that has a black knob on it.If that has no effect,then its a possibility that your cable is too tight,needs lubing,OR you could have a vacuum leak somewhere.Good Luck!

Just loosen the tensioner bolt then re-tighten. The tensioner assembly is on the back of the cylinder. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

Kawasaki made them that way in order to meet the California emissions controls. ie. there is one available size pilot jet, main jet and needle from Kawasaki. They are all pre-set. Many people buy a Mikuni pumper carb. I didn't. I own a machine shop so I modified the stock one. I made some mini adjustment rings for the needle and modified the main jet diameter to suit. I had to tune it until it didn't lean bog any more. Now it runs great. The mod worked for me. I was leaving to go riding the next day so getting the carb wasn't an option. Most people buy the carb and like it.

i suggest that you pull the throttle slowly and gently... and if this dosent work theres a problem with your bike .. you may need to change the engine oil or spark plugs..

The owners manual says to do the following if you don't want to remove the forks:
*raise the front wheel
*remove the fender, meter cable & unit, headlight, handle bar, fork protectors
*loosen the fork upper clamp bolts
*remove the caps from the top of the fork tube
*fully compress the fork tube so the dust cover touches the bottom and place a stand to hold it
*remove the springs
*set the oil level 68mm (standard) or 60 - 90 mm (adjustable) from the top of the tube

It may be easier to remove the tubes and you could replace the leaky seal at the same time. I did this recently and put in new springs too. It was my first time working on forks. With help from TT members and the service manual it was fairly easy. I didn't buy an oil gauge, seal driver, or spring holder. I used a ruler to measure the oil and a medicine dropper to remove any excess. For a seal driver I used a piece of PVC pipe cut in half then secured around the lower tube to drive the seal. Try a search on replacing fork seals for more info. 5w oil is standard but i have heard that 7 works well Good luck.

Get someone to help--set the brakes and try to drive it. The other person needs to watch what is turning. If it turns into the differential, but nothing happens coming out on either side, then drain the oil out of, and open the cover on the differential. Look at the drive pinion gear (you can run this for a short time without lubrication), is it turning? That will turn the ring gear which turns the differential unit. If one axle turns, but the other side doesn't, look for a broken axle on the side that turns. If the input pinion gear doesn't turn, look for a broken pinion shaft. Hope this helps!

If you are not a mechanic, take it to a shop before you completly destroy your cylinder or case. You most likely have a broken ring, bad valve or loose ring clip, but either way, the reason it is worse at the lower end is because that is where you are putting the most stress on the engine. OR...you could try using higher octane fuel, OR...your running the engine to lean. In any case, you should seek professional help with the issue, because running it with it knocking WILL end in an expensive repair.

electrical problems

if your pilot jet is pluged it will not idle. the pilot jet controls fuel from o-1/8 throttle setting only

You need to say what size as a 110 needs are different from a 650.

ok i,m taking a guess on the year but i think this link will help you out a lot

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2003-kawasaki-klx300r-klx300-a8/o/m3727

good luck.

Battery voltage falls off radically with a drop in temperature. To really test a battery you need to apply a load to it and then check the voltage, but it has to be a considerable load in the region of about 50 amps. Try another battery or even a jump start at those low temperatures and see if it still will not start. If it starts, the battery is on its way out.

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White smoke means head gasket is leaking coolant in to combustion chamber. Look at the engine oil for signs of coolant in the oil and oil floating on the top of coolant. You could also do a compression on the motor

sounds like gas problem and bike may be overheatin--du u hav a repair book for details-clymer makes a good one

If they are foam use kerosene soak a few hours then wash with warm soapy water and let dry. If they are paper replace.

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..