20 Most Recent 2001 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic Tourer - Fi Questions & Answers

Now's the overdue time to stabilize your fuel, Buddy!

Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. If in a hot area like Texas or New Mexico go with 20w50.


Lubrication: Wet sump, 3.7 qt A “very helpful” rating on this answer? Thanks!

Compression ratio: 9.0 :1 Carburetion: Digital Fuel Injection, two 36mm throats
Minimum fuel grade: 90 octane Valve arrangement: SOHC, 4 valves per cylinder
Type: Liquid-cooled 50-degree V-twin Transmission: Wet clutch, 5 speeds
Displacement, bore x stroke: 1470cc Final drive: Shaft, 2.619:1

Remove cap from radiator and fill this way, the meaning of the word reservoir remove oir from the end and you are left with the word reserve, the mass of the coolant is located in the radiator, the resovoir holds the coolant that is exsess when the engine is hot and the water has expanded,

Yes they should. Compression should be checked with the throttle held open. 110 sounds marginal but may be in spec. You haven't listed your model so I can't check.

Start with a compression check to eliminate a bad head gasket. Drain and flush the cooling system, could have a blockage. Be sure you check the pressure cap to see if the cooling system is full. DO NOT REMOVE THE CAP ON A HOT ENGINE! The overflow tank is not the place to check if you are having overheating issues.

Remove the seat and loosen the tank to lift it up. the vent hose will be the one attached to the tank. Make sure the hose is not pinched or kinked.

Hi mate if your just changing the actual lever like your question suggests forget the other two answers.
If it is a cable clutch loosen the adjuster at the lever end until the lever is floppy.
Now where the lever is bolted/hinged at the bars this is tje bolt and nut you need to remove, it will more that likely be a 10mm nut on the bottom and either a 10mm bolt or a large flat blade screw driver on top.
Remove this nut and bolt and the lever will come out.
Unhook the cable( if no cable just remove) and remove lever.
Reverse the removal process to reinstall.
Hope this helps

I would go directly off an ignition switched source capable of dealing with the current draw. OR I would use a sealed 30 amp minimum relay using the ignition switched lead to trip the relay and run a fused feed from the battery to the relay to power the lighter. That way you do not pull a lot of current from wires that may not be able to handle it. seal everything watertight or bad things will happen....

FI , im guessing is going to stand for "fuel injection" If the bike now sounds different it has probably got a problem with the fuel injection somewhere that the computer has picked up. If the sound of the bike has changed it may have dropped 1 cylinder and that is why it sounds different all of a sudden. It could be a simple blocked injector or water in the your fuel - a bad batch of fuel will play havoc with the fuel injection system on any vehicle. When was the last time you bought fuel ? was this problem only after getting new fuel? when was the last time the bike was serviced? id have the fuel system checked buy someone that knows what they are looking at.

I assume the engine is not seized and the battery is charged and good. Unplug the two small wires going to the starter solenoid and push the starter button . With a voltage meter on the wires from the harness you should have continuity.Reconnect the wires. Push the starter button, if you hear a click from the solenoid, the button is good. Now , jump the two cable posts on the starter solenoid. If the starter works you have a bad solenoid. If you push the starter button and tap on the starter with a plastic hammer and the starter works, you need new starter brushes. If anything else in the starter is keeping it from working you need a new starter , the starter parts are probably not available from the manufacturer.

I believe its half inch. Not 100% on this one. Id get online and get specs on Vulcan.

It is more likely to be a problem with the air supply or the ignition system. Check your coils, plugs and air filter. Could also be a blocked fuel filter.

under the the gas tank

ru racingf fuel

check the glow plugs ( maybe busted ) or the high tension wire..

bigger cam ,, bigger engine,, free flow air cleaner, better exhaust,, are starters

first up I wouldnt recomend changing the bars from standard on these machines a set of risers is a better alternative either way you will notice a negative effect on the handling.However if you must the safest way to extend the wireing is to determine how much longer you need it it is better to make it a bit longer.Dont make the common mistake of removeing the original bars and hacking the wires trace the harnes down to were it conects to the main loom & unplug the coupling having done this strip the wrap away from the wireing for about six inches back from the conecter cut the wires & solder in the required extra length one at a time this will help you aviod makeing wrong conections use heatshrink to cover soldered joins take extra care to get all conections right one wrong connection can result in a very costly fry up.enjoy the expierence

check wheel bearings, sometimes this is the case on the **** rockets up at 110, to 125 then will level out. just hits a spot where its ruff

go to mechanic

DRAIN CARBS FROM PETCOCK AT BOTTOM OF EACH CARB MAKE SURE FUEL DRAINS COMPLETELY THEN TURN FUEL BACK ON, IF THIS IS AN INJECTED MODEL DRAIN TANK AND FLUSH THEN RUN IT HARD FOR 20 MILES OR SO, MAKE SURE YOUR OIL LEVEL IS OK If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5