20 Most Recent 1999 kawasaki ZX-9R Ninja - Page 3 Questions & Answers

pull the plugs and see if you can turn the engine over if you can then it is hydraulic lock from fuel leaking into the chamber onto the top of the piston so you problem will be fuel and injector related if it is still seized then that indicates a lack of lubrication and the mechanics doing the repair initially where not sufficiently interested in find out why the bearing failed in the first place bearings on crank shafts fail mainly from not enough oil pressure / supply --pump or pick up failure or lack of quality oil in use or from excessive pressure -- pump relief valve jammed and not operational when that happens the pressure can reach pressures that will remove the metal in the bearings around the oil holes and that will lead to blockages in the oil galley Talking with the repair shop may get results but you can also contact the manufacturer direct to see if there were any service recalls / bulletins related to the failure Kwakas are reliable bikes with race bread engines so there is a problem that has not been properly diagnosed from the start and unfortunately that has set you back some money

you may be fluding the ingen with to much gass

open bleed screw a small amount and pump clutch until only fluid comes out, ensure resevoir is kept topped up at all times

Usually it is always under the seat

I think you are way over your head here ... evidenced the red hot pipes. Could be time ... could be you didn't do the head gasket properly. Might be time for a professional to check out your ride.

it could do as one cylinder would be running too lean and the fuel tap may not be getting enough vac at low revs

you should be able ot get a good reading anywhere after the throttle plates, just be sure to plug the line that you remove so that you do not throw the idle off.

Hi, Yes you car start from there but d'ont exclude the possibility of a sudden dead battery.
You may also want to check some safety dvices (like side stand switch, neutral switch) because in some situatins they can cause that simptom.
good luck

Inside the tank the petcock is simply two openings at different levels. The reserve is the lower one and since it feeds from the bottom of the tank it's susceptible to blockage by rust and detritus.

To clear it you'll need to drain the tank (as far as you can) remove it from the bike and detach the petcock to clean it.

You need to reajust the clutch as the new discs are wearing in. As they wear down just a bit, the adjustment needs to be reset as they'll slip.

Unlock the rear seat, then there are two 10 mm bolts that hold on the front seat, take them off and you are there...

lets start with the carbs. You say you cleaned them. But did you remove and clean the jets ? start there.

Use only a JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. Automotive oil uses different additives and will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Shell Rotella T Synthetic (15w-40 about $22) and Shell Rotella standard oil ($12 a gallon) for diesel engines , both are JASO MA rated for motorcycles.10w-40 oil is good for cold climate. 20w-50 for hot climate/touring. Synthetic oil will make your cycle run cooler and shift easier. For the engine you will probably need four quarts of oil, a filter,and a drain plug washer . Pour in three quarts and check the oil level by placing your motorcycle on the center standard looking at looking at the dip stick. Run the motor and top up as needed.
If changing the oil filter you will have to run the motor to get an accurate oil level reading.

12 volts

check your carburatures. Sounds like they could use a tune up. Seems as if they are not getting enough fuel after it is warmed up, that is why it runs good when choked. Also check your air filter first.

I assume that you have removed the seat and checked that all the harness wires are plugged in correctly. There are two brake light switches one on the handle bars and one on the foot pedal. It is extremely rare that they both stop working at the same time. Unless one switch has been broken for a while and you did not notice the brake light was not working until the second switch went out. It sounds like you have a common problem any older light bulb socket can have. Remove the tail light lens and take out the bulb. Look carefully at the contact plate. If it has gotten too hot one of the contacts may have sunken into the plate and no longer touches the contact on the bulb. This happens a lot. You can take a socket plate out of any old dual filament light socket by pushing on one side,cocking it at an angle, and pulling it out with the wires attached. Install the good plate in your socket by feeding the wires through the spring and out the wire holes. Cut and solder the your old wires onto the wires on the new socket plate minding which wire is the running light and which wire is the stop light. If you make a make a mistake it is not hard to remedy , either switch the wires (resolder) or plug them into the wrong colors. The dim filament is the tail light and the bright filament is the stop light.

what i suggest because it happened to me if the fusees are all good then stick your hand between your radiator and fairings and try to spin the fan by flicking if or something, if it doesn't move freely then it may have a foreign object in there or be bent like mine was. and replace or unbend
the fan does move... heres how i checked to see if it would work.. i unplugged my left blinker and unplugged the fan cable then connected the blinker with the fan cable and turned the left blinker on and it was turning on / off with the blinker flash..then i would check the relay if not that then the temp sender

Hope this helps

John

Kawasaki service manual
recommend 10W40 or 10W50 oil
so if you want to use some good oil go with something like
Silkolene Comp 4 10W40 or
MOTUL 5100 10W40