Top 20 1996 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Questions & Answers

Probably a bent shift fork internal to the transmission. No easy fix. will require total engine tear down.

If you want to get the fuel out of the tank and into your engine...well YAH

Yes, or it will run lean at high revs. You can bypass it as a get you home.

Dude shift forks...no you dont have to spilt ****** can go threw oil pan just difficult since you are working under the bike....haynes manual will explain it all,,,im having same problem mine wont shift down and no cant get neutral...so gotta find a good place on the web to buy chaep good parts!

well, my friend i suggest to change all your spark plug, after you've done it, then probably we have a changes...good luck buddy...

The cable has snapped.

hi there, it should be a screw on the same mount as your clutch lever, with a seperate cable leading down to the right hand side of the carbs. alternatively, there may be a knurled adjuster on a cable sticking out the side of one of the fairings. hope this is helpful

The ZX6, as with most four-cylinder motorcycle engines, is mounted transversely in the frame. When sitting on the bike, the cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4 left to right.Firing Order: the firing order is 1-2-4-3. There is no distributor for the engine, as ignition is controlled electronically.Extra Ignition Information: there are only two ignition coils for this engine. Each coil has two spark plug wires. One coil fires cylinders 1 and 4. The other fires cylinders 2 and 3.Addtional details in this link: images/4/45/ZX600E13.PDFhope this helps (remember to rating this free answer).

they dont go from tank to carbs they go from tank to fuel tap then from fuel tap to carbs.

Assuming the bike is yours to ride, you could, simply remove the ignition switch, unscrew the plastic lower and separate the switch from the lock and then turn the the centre of the switch with a screwdriver until the ignition lights up, when the lock is removed take it and have a new key cut.

they only way is to cut the wires which is not recommended you can get the number of the top of the ignition and have one cut

This problem is the alternator is not charging. You will need to trouble shoot the stator, rectifier/regulator. You will need a volt/ohm meter. It is best to get you a good manual. But as always check your fuses. The stator will produce AC voltage in about the 27 - 32 volts AC range at idle. Unplug the stator and check for voltage there at this plug when idling. Next plug the rectifier back in and check for voltage at the battery at idle, should be in the 14 volts DC range. If you are getting the proper AC voltage at the two wires on the stator and only battery voltage at the battery, then your rec/reg is not doing its thing. Hope this helps FixYa up.

you cannot the battery is under the seat which must be removed by firstly removing the rear seat with the key and there is one 10mm bolt at back of front seat once removed the battery is easily accessed

try emptying out fuel and replace with new fuel at least 95 or above octane (do not use E10) if this dosnt work change the fuel filter under the tank and may need to clean carbies

The bike has a bent shift fork. The engine must come out then gets flipped upside down to remove the bottom half of the crankcase. This allows access to the gears and shift forks. The repair is not recommended for the home mechanic. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Hello, the leak may be caused by the carb gaskets or seals drying out and splitting if the bike has been sat idle for a while.It may well be that the float for that carb is punctured and sits at the bottom of the float chamber. This will cause the needle valve to stay open and will allow the carb to flood all the time and fuel will leak.
Best advice I can give is be careful, get a manual, draw pictures or take photographs. Work in a well ventilated space with a markd out area for dismantling the carb.Do one carb at a time and do not mix any parts. As you dismantle parts use indelible marker or a small screwdriver to scratch location lines for re-assembly. Never trust your memory if it is going to take more than one hour to complete.
Make sure that you have the spares to complete the task befor taking anything apart.
Use masking tape to hold small parts in the sequence that they are dismantled.
Do not let your mates or children touch anything
Make sure the battery is disconnected before you start any work on the fuel system
Good luck jamesey555

sounds like a faulty earth wire which is usually black and screws toanything metal take it off and clean with light sandpaper and replace

my guess is your fuel has gone off drain tank and replace fuel with at least 95 octane (do not use E10) you also may need to replace fuel filter which is under the tank and clean carby bowls

The problem with changing some motorcycle spark plugs is getting a socket to them--once you're able to slip a socket on the plugs, you can usually get an extension into it and a ratchet onto that. However, if you can't get at your spark plugs with a deep socket and regular extension, you might want to get a so-called "wobble extension" that lets you pivot something like 10-15 degrees while still having a solid connection to socket and to ratchet. I have used my 3" wobble extension quite a bit when dealing with motorcycle spark plugs that are deeply recessed. That set-up usually lets me get the socket and extension into the spark plug well in one piece, rather than dropping in a socket and fishing around with an extension to connect it up.

If you have power to the coils have you checked that it is 12volts ?
If so then for some reason the Igniter is not switching the ground to the coils to produce your spark or it is and there's a break in the wiring/Bad connector or the Igniter is not getting the switching signal from the Pick up coil or again bad wiring/connectors---hope this helps.