20 Most Recent 1993 kawasaki ZXR 750 Questions & Answers


Hi, Anonymous the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Aug 29, 2018


Hi, Frewgarry for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 30, 2018


Hi, Gorman94 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 30, 2018


Hi, Craig and the usual suspects are:
1. Dirty or clogged air filter.
2. Faulty spark plug.
3. Bad Gas.
4. Improper oil level.
5. Improper chain adjustment and lubrication.
6. Low tire pressure.
7. Dirty or contaminated carburetor needs cleaning and tuning.
8. Clogged or faulty fuel pump or injectors.
9. Improper valve adjustment.
10. Slipping clutch.
11. Improper timing.
12. Low compression.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 29, 2018


Hi, Andre for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 28, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 28, 2018


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 28, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-7r-forum/35464-bike-runs-bit-then-dies.html
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1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 28, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 28, 2018


Hi, Craig before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for, corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, for corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Dec 14, 2017


Replace the fuse before the loom catches fire and destroys the bike!
Likewise, check and replace the rear loom.

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


that is a relay connection. use comment to get assistance.

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Dec 16, 2014


Check your ht leads are right to the correct plugs. I once changed plugs, took ALL leads off at same tiime forgetting which went to which plug. Got 3 and 4 wrong way round - did exactly that.
No expert - got zx7r.

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 12, 2014


Best you can find. Rock Oil if you can. Stay away from the old Magnatek etc etc as I found them to be no better than the 15 quid cheaper Rock Oil. (Slick50 my ninja too! Old thing. )

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 12, 2014


Prob miles off here but my zx7r did this after being sat 20 months. Turned out it simply had exhaust gaskets totally inoperable. The block where the pipes come out, therefore was in fact sucking air in as the hot fumes were spitting out, mixing up and creating a mini explosion. Check pipes are all sealed nicely tightly. Everything else you did sounds right. What about lifting tank off - airbox off (check that) and look at carbs? clean? Sounds daft this but is it sat with 2 year old petrol in the tank too? It's as if the mixture is going in, plug is igniting but then like its no compression? Mine 'was' simply exhaust gaskets. Think they would do the same if you totally stripped the whole exhaust off and tried starting with a couple of dirty great holes in your bore. Will it not even start with jump leads to a large car battery? Did mine to our landrover and forced it to start - endless charge from running landrover. Take a plug out, connected to your HT lead, turn it over but touching / earthing plug onto part of your metal frame / casing. Should see the actual spark, if not its your coil / ht leads??? Not an expert just had Kwakker long time lol. Love hate relationship.

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 12, 2014


Had a similer problem with my L1 recently and narrowed it down to the cluctch not getting enough oil through so changed cylinder put an ebc clutch in and serviced entire clutch system and thankfully seems of done the trick now no gearbox or clutch noise and goes throug the gears superbly with no slipping or noise even when going for it

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Jun 09, 2014


If you jump started from a car you have fried the battery. Also possible cooked the rectifier/regulator unit. I suggest get a new battery and charge it at no more than 1 amp for a few hours. Fit the battery and see if the bike starts. If it does check the charge rate to the battery with a muti-imeter. You should be looking at just over 14 volts with about 5K RPM. Good luck and please remember never jump start from a car, van, lorry etc in fact don't jump start at all from anything.

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 07, 2014


dead battery or just a bad connection.

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Jun 07, 2012


Did you put fuel in it??

After a day at the track and running at full throttle for a good majority of the day the fuel consuption of your bike goes through the roof.

When doing track days i always fuel up twice - once in the morning then again at lunch time to get me through the day.

A tank of fuel that would normally last you about 300km's will disapear in about 100-150km at the track.

Check the fuel mate, at least try it on res and see if it starts.

If it runs on res your problem is solved.

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Dec 17, 2011


tire is, and has to be located on the side of the tire.

1993 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 23, 2011

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