20 Most Recent 2004 Honda CRF 230 F Questions & Answers


The spring on startr that contacts gears to turn is bad. Buya clymermanual for shopwork. Dont replace more ignition parts..it probly ok

2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Feb 02, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Feb 18, 2018


Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Feb 15, 2018


There should be no slack!, add tension until there is no noise when hot, or no play when loose. Do not over tighten it. with manual tension-er once it stops back it up and tighten the jam nut

2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Dec 27, 2017


Hi, Curtybird95 and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper valve adjustment.
2. Broken or loose cam chain.
3. Loose or broken cam sprocket.
4. Bent, burnt or stuck valve.
5. Blown head gasket.
6. Piston failure.
7. Broken connecting rod.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41333
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/84232-crf230-no-compression
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Dec 10, 2017


Hi, Brandon and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
14. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
15. Fuel filter clogged.
16. Old or contaminated fuel.
17. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
18. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
19. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
20. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
21. Incorrect valve timing.
22. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
23. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
24. Incompatible performance parts.
25. Control module may be in "LIMP" mode
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Nov 19, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Nov 19, 2017


Hi, Johan before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Nov 02, 2017


Hi, Michaelhare to perform a proper compression test you need a pressure gauge either threaded or push in. You will get a higher more accurate reading when the engine is at normal operating temperature along with burnt fingers if you are not protected or careful, cold testing works just fine and it the method I use 99% of the time. If your bike has cams and valves you need to make sure your valve clearance is within book specs Always blow forced air around the spark plug before you remove it to eliminate any uninvited contamination from getting inside the cylinder. Install the compression gauge, twist the throttle grip to the wide open position and kick or hit the starter button long enough for the engine to turn over 5-6 times. Record the reading and repeat the process 3 times to get the average reading. Single cylinder engines must have a minimum of 100 PSI anything less call a Priest for Last Rites, it's time for a top end overhaul. Multi-cylinder engines must have no more than a 10% difference between each cylinder, for you high- performance ******* no more than 10 lbs. per cylinder. To run on today's fuel most bikes have pistons with compression ratio's designed to give acceptable performance using an 87 octane graded fuel, this means the average compression readings on most bikes will be 125-150 PSI. I have gotten readings of 200+ on some big inch V-Twins and Thumpers but these are rare #'s and require high octane fuel to eliminate cylinder ringing or "PING" For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Oct 31, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Oct 16, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32108
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Sep 29, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Aug 17, 2017


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables misaligned or misrouted.
2. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
3. Intake system air leak.
4. Vacuum piston malfunction.
5. Pinholes or torn diaphragm.
6. Accelerator pump leaking or no output.
7. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
8. Fuel level in bowl too low.
9. Restricted fuel supply passages.
10. Plugged jets or passages.
11. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
12. The enrichner valve/choke not seated or leaking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Bike won accelerate
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Aug 13, 2017


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11596
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Aug 11, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $8 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Sep 27, 2016


Hi, Buckit for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Sep 24, 2016


with the plug removed back the crank up if it slightly short of mark

2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Nov 21, 2015


1.1 quart is about 1.04 litres.

2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Oct 01, 2014


I am not sure why others are recommending a carburetor rebuild - that has nothing to do with "how to jump start a CRF230F..."

If riding with others (as you should ride with at least one other person), you can disconnect and remove the battery from their bike, connect it to yours, and use your electric start. This is, of course, if the other rider has a battery in their bike and you have a 10MM wrench to remove the side covers and and battery cables.

If alone, or other riders have bikes without batteries (2-stroke machines), do the following:
* Put the bike in 3rd gear (1st and 2nd gear are typically too low of a gear ratio for jump starting to successfully work. The rear wheel will simply lock up and slide.)
* With the clutch lever pulled in, start pushing the bike as fast as you can (it is easier to do this on part of the trail / road with a slight to moderate decline)
* With the bike rolling as fast as you can get it going, hop on the bike and then let the clutch lever out. With the rear drive wheel connected to the transmission/crankshaft/connecting rod and piston via the chain, the piston will compress the fuel/air mixture, the spark plug will ignite, and then the engine should fire up and be running.

2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Jul 24, 2014


sticky gel coming from CDI box indicates CDI failure. Sticky gel is the insulating material in the module that is melting and leaking out.

2004 Honda CRF... | Answered on Mar 05, 2014

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