Hey Mata,
You have purchased a project that may be complicated... Internal combustion engines need only three things to run..(if it was assembled correctly)
1. A properly timed spark
2. Compression
3. Proper fuel ratio
..NOW - First, You need to run a full compression check on all cylinders.. this will eliminate a compression issue that would prevent the engine from running right! Compression should be 120+psi MINiMUM with the throttle held wide open and the engine spun for 6-8 seconds.(on each cyl) ..If you have more than 20PSI difference between ANY two cylinders you have a problem.. and this MUST be repaired before proceeding - Next, take the carbs to a qualified professional and have him check, clean, and set the carbs... once you get them back, make sure you have fuel going to the carbs..If all is correct, and you have installed NEW spark plugs.. it should run..and run well..
Begin by eliminating ignition problems first: Be sure your kill switch is in the "run" position. ( I know, it sounds stupid, but you would be amazed how many bike owners will hop on after a riding break and leave the switch in the "off" position)Next, using an old plug and leaving the installed plugs in place, unplug the cap to one of the outboard plug wires; either the #1 or the #4 and plug the old loose plug into the cap. Insure that the threaded portion of the plug is resting on metal and hit the starter button. You should see a fat blue spark at the loose plug electrode. No spark? You have an ignition problem which will require more troubleshooting, but I am assuming when you parked it a year ago it ran, thus I will jump straight to what I think is the problem. Re install the plug cap.Obtain some spray start and following the instructions, spray into the the throat of the carb, or into the air box. Immediately attempt to start. If it coughs/farts/sputters, you are in luck. Your ignition system is probably OK. You then need to move onto the fuel delivery system. These bikes do not take well to long term storage as the remaining fuel will separate with the combustibles evaporating leaving a dark shellac-type residue. This can cause blockage of the very small main and pilot jets which will result in poor performance or a no-start condition. A first step is to unscrew the drain screw at each carb bowl and drain the contents followed by a flush with fresh fuel from the tank. If no debris, water, or gook (a technical term) is noticed, attempt to start the bike again. If it starts, but runs rough, I would recommend for you to pour some SeaFoam into the tank and run the engine http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sea-Foam-Motor-Treatment-16-oz/16664932 . This will clean the entire fuel system and may take a couple of treatments.In the event you did not get the engine to come to life, you may have to pull the carbs to clean them thoroughly. A good instructional video is found on youtube here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXoDX1RzBJ4 Good Luck!
Try the following link to download a full service manual for free.
You will find it the starter motor by removing your fuel tank and left engine hanger plate. This is described in section 17, page 4.
http://www.carlsalter.com/honda-service-manuals.asp
Sounds like your clutch is partially engaged.
You may be able to adjust the screw near the lever to tighten the cable (take out the slack) and allow the clutch to disengage when you pull the lever.
If that does't work, the clutch plates may be dry or seized?
I would not recommend using an Automotive Oil in your bike. Make sure the oil has a JASO rating, this rating is obtained by the additives and breakdown of the oil. It is designed for the high RPMs of Metric and sport bikes. Use a 10w40 major brand such as Honda Pro oil.
Every lock on your bike is stamped with a key code. Example #345A56 You use the last three digits or letters. In this example the number is A56. The easy locks to get to are the ignition switch and the helmet lock. The fuel cap also has the number on it, but you have to take it off with a key to read it. Some dealers are nice and keep a record OR write the key code in the owners manual.
1. Engine cut switch is set to run. 2. The bike did not get knocked into gear as it will not start without either putting back in neutral or pulling in the clutch. 3. The side stand switch was not damaged.
A few things to look at and try, if it was working before hand, it will be one of the above more than likely!
NO DRAIN PLUG ON RADIATOR REMOVE LOWER HOSE, FROM RAD THIS WILL EMPTY THE SYSTEM, IF YOU REMOVE THE 10 MM BOLT FROM THE WATER PUMP YOU WILL GET MOST OF THE COOLANT OUT, IF YOU DONT REMOVE THE RAD COMPLETELY TAKE OF THE TOP HOSE AND FLUSH THROUGH WITH WATER, TIP ONLY DO THIS WITH COLD ENGINE.
If you cut the ring on the side of the gauge you can open it up , but chances are there will be no way of fixing what is wrong with the odometer part of the speedometer. Finding a new one or a good used one may be the best option.
Its an older bike. Check your linkage, make sure nothings been overtightened and all the bearings are greased. Run all your clickers in and back them both back out 7 clicks or so. There are both compression and dampening adjusters. One on the cartridge and one down near the linkage.
