20 Most Recent 1997 Honda CBR 600 F(3)V - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Sound like fuel supply fail.Check the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump relay first.

Check the fuses. Next, check for spark but with a new spark plug. How good is the battery? Try a jump start from your car battery. Is the kill switch on? Does the side stand have a kill switch? Is it working properly? Check the operation of the ignition switch and all kill switches with a volt ohmmeter. You should be getting power into and out of the ignition switch.

Check the wiring harness. Did a wire come unplugged? Are all wires clean and with solid connections? Any abraded or pinched wires? Is the bike in neutral and the neutral light is lit up? If no neutral light, check the neutral switch and neutral switch wire on center casing. If still no spark, get CDI system and coils checked at the dealers shop.

Please rate this as a top answer. Thanks

I think your diagnosis is correct. Tighten all fittings and the problem may disappear. By the way if you go to the website below you can download a service manual for your bike. FREE. I really love free. It is a big file and will take maybe 10 to 15 minutes to download. Download time is dependent on the speed of the computer, etc.

Pleas rate this solution. Thanks

i have an F3.. my uncle has just rebuilt the whole bike.. im sure he would kno wats wrong.. Email me at [email protected]

In my experiences over the years pressure testing the carbs and messing with the fuel pump, I have never actually tested the pump output. Knowing that the average pop off pressure of the float valve on the float is 10-13 psi, this being tested via hand held pressure gauge to ensure no leaks before installation on the bike. I assume that the fuel pressure coming from the pump should not exceed the pop off pressure or it could cause the carbs to leak though and the bike would run rich. Hope this helps out.

Stock is a 160/60ZR17. I run a 170/60ZR17 with no issues. That is as wide as you can go on the rear without major modification to the swingarm or rubbing the stock arm.

It's running to lean and thus the combustion chamber is to hot.
The ignition timing could be to advanced. 

Check your fuse box first if ok then take the ground cable wire off from the frame opposite from the battery neg and wire brush it , clean it (metal shine) so it will make a good contact to the frame, next try checking both cables for acid corrosion at the ends under the protective coating, if you still have a dead bike then check or replace the starter solinoid, as it's positive side may be shorted out due to overheated contacts.

check to see if fuel switch is on...when was the last time carbs were checked?

Did you replace the coils with new ones, or replace them with existing coils? Was the bike starting before they were removed? How long was the bike not running for? Once I have more information I can assist you further.
Thanks,
Lee

sounds like a regulator failure , take it to a good motorcycle electrician.



hope this helps

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Your description could be any of 2 possibilities:

• starter relay/solenoid; and/or
  
• starter motor.

To determine which, jump the 2 big terminals of the starter relay/solenoid when starting the bike; if the motor turns, the relay/solenoid is defective; if the starter motor does not turn, the starter motor is defective (most likely the carbon brushes).

Of course other possibilities still exist, such as:

• loose, corroded battery terminals, relay, starter terminal/connectors;
• weak battery.
• open, corroded fuse/fuse terminals.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy New Year.

Pls be informed that due to my current rank and rating, even a Helpful would be detrimental to my status. Should this solution not address your concern, it would be appreciated if you could just not rate this at all. Cheers.

It should be 1 down and 5 up. About the 5500rpm at 85... That sounds about right with stock gearing. Let me know if i can help further. Good luck and happy holidays. Jay

40mm slack up and down middle of chain. not tight when sitting on bike. loosen axle ajust both sides evenly, retighten axle install new split pin

It starts because current flows easier in a warm battery. But any guessing about what the problem is needs to start with a charged battery, lead acid batteries need to be charged to 12.6v, if it won't charge to 12.6v, the battery needs replacing. It also sounds like your charging system may not be working right, which may have caused the battery to fail. With a charged battery check voltage at battery at 2500-3500rpm, it should read 13 to 14 volts, most bikes do not charge at idle.

what kind of bike and year ,size cc'sand any work done to motor. does it have a rad

To read the serial number on a Honda PC50 moped, follow these steps: Locate the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): The VIN is a unique code that provides information about your moped. On a Honda PC50, you can find the VIN in the following places: Under the Air Filter Cover: Look on the left-hand side, just above the engine. The VIN should be stamped there. It typically looks like this: PC50 - 1234567. Frame Number: The frame number is another term for the VIN. It's usually located near the air filter body. Decode the VIN: The VIN contains important details about your moped, including the year of manufacture. Here's how to interpret it: The 9th digit of the VIN is a check digit. The 10th digit represents the year code. For example: A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984 F = 1985 G = 1986 H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 1 = 2000 2 = 2001 3 = 2002 Note that if your scooter was manufactured between February 1986 and February 1987, it's likely to be a '87 model; Additional Resources: If you have the full VIN, you can use the NHTSA VIN decoder to get detailed information about your moped. Alternatively, you can call Honda with your VIN, and they will provide you with the necessary information.

Question edited for clarity and add magic word. The Owner's Manual covers basic repairs and is free. https://www.google.com/search?q=honda+anf125+innova+service+and+repair+manual

Honda ANF125 Innova Service and Repair Manual

Google Books https://books.google.com > ... > Repair & Maintenance The aim of this manual is to help readers get the best from their motorcycle. It provides information on routine maintenance and servicing and the tasks are ...

Honda ANF125 Manuals

ManualsLib https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Scooter Manuals and User Guides for Honda ANF125. We have 1 Honda ANF125 manual available for free PDF download: Owner's Manual ...

Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter (2003 - 2012)

Haynes Manuals https://haynes.com > en-gb > anf125-innova-scooter Detailed repair guides and DIY insights for 2003-2012 Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter's maintenance with a Haynes manual. ..

The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.

Question edited for clarity, but no idea what you mean by - "What do I need to do to get the gay? The clutching gauge in again?" You issue is probably that all the clutch plates are glued together. Leaving a bike for 21 years will do that. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Honda+Gold+Wing+1200+stuck+clutch ..