20 Most Recent 1997 Honda CBR 600 F(3)V Questions & Answers

Hi, Markmorri89 if you have an old bike that has not had regular fuel system maintenance and you run the fuel tank dry I feel your pain. All the contaminants water-dirt-rust-liner paint flakes-ethanol sludge etc. that lived in the bottom of your fuel tank get mixed with the last few oz. of fuel left in the tank and enter the fuel system clogging up fuel filters-fuel valves-fuel lines-carburetor jets-needle jets and seats-fuel injectors etc. You fill up your fuel tank and guess what your bike does not start or if it does it runs poorly, a complete cleaning of the fuel system is mandatory, the procedure is as follows:
1. Drain the fuel tank and inspect the inside for leftover uninvited guests decontaminate as necessary for rusty environments install a liquid fuel tank liner.
2. In tank fuel pumps with external filters need to be cleaned.
3. Fuel valves need to be rebuilt with a new gasket kit.
4. Fuel lines need to be inspected for integrity and replaced as necessary any inline fuel filter should be cleaned or replaced.
5. Carburetors need to be disassembled then "DIPPED" and soaked in a commercial carb cleaning solution Gunk sells 1/2 gallon pails with meshed screen baskets. Reassemble using new rebuild kits. Record all jet sizes and float level for fine-tuning.
6. Fuel injectors and fuel rails need to be properly cleaned and tested for optimum performance, if necessary send off any suspect injectors to "InjectorRx.com" for a modest fee they will refurbish the unit back to factory specs.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Mcdnjffm before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Melloluver for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1996 CBR 600 f3 CLUTCH PROBLEM HHHEEEELLLLLPPPPP
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Hi, Lbelvin for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Hi, Jmillerjr1 and the usual suspects are:
1. Choke not functioning properly.
2. The battery is not fully charged 12.5 volts or better.
3. Throttle not fully closed.
4. The intake manifold is loose or cracked and sucking air.
5. Air cleaner not sealed properly or missing element.
6. Air fuel mixture not adjusted properly.
7. Valves adjusted to tight.
8. Low compression top end needs a rebuild.
9. Engine oil to heavy for cold temperatures.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Jmillerjr1 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
27. Faulty run/stop switch.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-cbr-600/62949-97-cbr-600-f3-wont-start-help.html
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Hi, Hegelp3 and the usual suspects are:
1. Low coolant level.
2. Restricted radiator air flow.
3. Faulty thermostat.
4. Coolant pump or fans inoperative.
5. Vent hose crimped.
6. Air in the coolant and needs bleeding.
7. Engine idling too long or bike moving too slow.
8. Coolant too old needs to be replaced.
9. Faulty temperature sensor, wiring or connector.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Overheating Issues CBR Forum Enthusiast forums for Honda CBR Owners
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-cbr-600/75938-95-f3-tacho-problem.html
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Matalicachic Pinkfloydguy here, engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed out they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for cracks.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must have for fine tuning and maximum performance.
Fine tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
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Hi, Jjc0651 moisture, condensation, rain, or bike washing can make the bike run sluggish, not able to rev, and misfire. Older bikes, engine configuration, and exposed electrical components are at the front of the line for acting up. During the diagnostic procedure spray Electrical Contact Cleaner on corroded wire connectors/pins/sockets etc. and apply a liberal amount of "DIELECTRIC" grease to the mating harness/wire connectors. WD40 works great for eliminating suspect areas in your quest to find the real offending gremlin.
For additional insurance you can spray a High Temp Clear Coat on the most vulnerable areas it will work like Scotch Guard does on fabric. Fabricate a rubber or plastic splash guard to deflect water coming off the front wheel getting to the front cylinder spark plugs. The design should be adequate for its purpose with the least amount of air flow restriction to cool the cylinders. The usual suspects are:
1. Air filter soaked with water.
2. Water in the fuel system gas tank and carburetors.
3. Wet ignition coil packs.
4. Spark plug boots wore out or loose allowing water to enter.
5. Spark plug cables old check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Spark plug wells filled up and drain holes clogged.
7. Water in a wire harness that has exposed open ends and have a sharp bend or kinc allowing the liquid to form its own pool of potential threats to chaffed wiring.
8. Sensitive fuel tuners and downloaded ECM remaps may get confused with the abnormal cylinder temperature difference in a V-4 engine configuration.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, B_shipp the ignition circuit cut-off system comprising of the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch has the following functions:
a. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is up, but the clutch lever is not pulled.
b. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, but the side stand is still down.
c. It cuts the running engine when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is moved down.
Periodically check the operation of the ignition circuit cut-off system according to the following tests.
With the engine turned off:
1. Move the side stand down.
2. Make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN"
3. Turn the key to "ON".
4. Shift the transmission into the neutral position.
5. Push the start switch if the engine does not start the neutral switch may be faulty.
With the engine still running:
6. Move the side stand up.
7. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
8. Shift the transmission into gear.
9. Move the side stand down if the engine does not stall you may have a faulty side stand switch.
After the engine has stalled:
10. Move the side stand up.
11. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
12. Push the start switch if the engine does not start you may have a faulty clutch switch.
This check is most reliable if performed with a warmed-up engine.
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Honda CBR600F4I 2001 Service Manual
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Have the carburetors or throttle bodies & injectors cleaned, clean fuel lines replace all fuel, change oil to be safe.

Sounds like your clutch is partially engaged.
You may be able to adjust the screw near the lever to tighten the cable (take out the slack) and allow the clutch to disengage when you pull the lever.
If that does't work, the clutch plates may be dry or seized?

Begin by eliminating ignition problems first: Be sure your kill switch is in the "run" position. ( I know, it sounds stupid, but you would be amazed how many bike owners will hop on after a riding break and leave the switch in the "off" position)

Next, using an old plug and leaving the installed plugs in place, unplug the cap to one of the outboard plug wires; either the #1 or the #4 and plug the old loose plug into the cap. Insure that the threaded portion of the plug is resting on metal and hit the starter button. You should see a fat blue spark at the loose plug electrode.

No spark? You have an ignition problem which will require more troubleshooting, but I am assuming when you parked it a year ago it ran, thus I will jump straight to what I think is the problem. Re install the plug cap.

Obtain some spray start and following the instructions, spray into the the throat of the carb, or into the air box. Immediately attempt to start. If it coughs/farts/sputters, you are in luck. Your ignition system is probably OK. You then need to move onto the fuel delivery system.

These bikes do not take well to long term storage as the remaining fuel will separate with the combustibles evaporating leaving a dark shellac-type residue. This can cause blockage of the very small main and pilot jets which will result in poor performance or a no-start condition. A first step is to unscrew the drain screw at each carb bowl and drain the contents followed by a flush with fresh fuel from the tank. If no debris, water, or gook (a technical term) is noticed, attempt to start the bike again. If it starts, but runs rough, I would recommend for you to pour some SeaFoam into the tank and run the engine

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sea-Foam-Motor-Treatment-16-oz/16664932 . This will clean the entire fuel system and may take a couple of treatments.

In the event you did not get the engine to come to life, you may have to pull the carbs to clean them thoroughly. A good instructional video is found on youtube here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXoDX1RzBJ4 Good Luck!

Try the following link to download a full service manual for free.
You will find it the starter motor by removing your fuel tank and left engine hanger plate. This is described in section 17, page 4.

http://www.carlsalter.com/honda-service-manuals.asp

check on the sidewall, should be like 42 psi max. have local tire store fill them up and ask what pressure they put. it will probably be manufacturers suggested pressure.