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1987 Honda GL 1200 Interstate Gold Wing Questions & Answers
Best way to replace speedometer cable
most cable drives for speedos are replaced by removing the cable from the drive end ( not the instrument end) and pulling the inner cable out
if the inner cable is damaged , check for kinks and squashed sections of the outer cable case as these will affect the new inner cable
Was just told that my
Has he based his coment on a coolant leak or a mechanicle noise, does the coolant level go down? Maybe he has recomended this as a preventative maintenance ie reached a high milage etc, regards paul
Where is the key code on a 1987 Honda Goldwing
The key code is on the back side of the ignition switch body but it is also stamped on every lock on the cycle. So if the trunk or saddle bag is unlocked you can get the code from there, unless you have a two key bike. Honda key codes are hidden in a 6 digit alpha-numeric code.
Example you see: #345A56... A56 is the key code. #123456 the key cod is 456. A nice dealer will write the key code in your owners manual or on your paperwork. The original dealer will no longer have the original paperwork and it is not embedded in the VIN#. Every lock is stamped with it's key code.
I lost the key to
sorry but no, your gonna have to change your ignition, and replace the bag locks.
Hi
I have a 1984
You can use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate/year round. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier. Shell Rotella T 10w-40 ($12 a gallon) and Rotella T Synthetic 15w-40 ($22 a gallon) are inexpensive JASO MA oils. Be sure to check the label on the bottle, some of the lighter weights are not JASO MA. You will need 4 quarts of oil, an aluminum drain plug washer, and a filter.
Just bought a 1985 goldwing.
It depends on whether it has a rear disk brake or a rear drum brake. If it is a disk brake the caliper will have a small bleed screw on it, all you do is fit a piece of clear hose to it or use a vizibleed which is basically a hose with a one way valve on it. Pump up the rear brake pedal and keep it held down, best to have two people. Then you crack the bleed screw by about 1/4 of a turn and allow the fluid out, tighten and repeat until all the old fluid is replaced by the new fluid.
If however it is a drum brake, you need to locate the drum adjuster. You will see an arm coming off the rear axle housing which looks like a gear lever, it will attach to a rod with a spring and a nut on it. Basically you tighten the nut until you get some pedal pressure.
However which ever version it is, you may want to change out the shoes/pads first.
Master cylinder not releasing pressure
This is probably not the master cylinder, but more likely the brake caliper sticking.
The caliper uses hard-rubber 'O' rings, and they get old and 'sticky', to the point that they will no longer 'release' the brake pads.
Either rebuild your caliper, or replace with a new one.
Where are the timing marks
Let me start by saying i have worked on alot of goldwings and replaced more timing belts on them then i care to say, they are very easy to spot and set, in the front of the motor you have a cover that is in two parts remove that cover after you have off you will see two (2) belts one to each bank. the timing marks or on the pullys and they are hard to miss and are very clear how to set. I'm going to send you a link that will give the micro phish to your bike.
http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/Honda_OEM/HondaMC.asp?Type=13&A=33&B=5
this link is to world of powersports the have all the micro phish on your bike.
the timing marks on the pulleys will line up the split in the case and should be on the outside of the pulleys (facing away from center)
if yo have the belts off already the timing mark on the center pully has it's own hash mark, set cylinder 1 t.d.c. check marks.
if you need more info please contact me
M.Woodring
How do I change timing
The only thing usually necessary is to pull a little slack in the carb heater air hose to get enough room to pull the plastic belt cover free. Changing the water pump, timing belts, alternator are much easier.Just be sure to double and triple check the cam alighnment before tightening the tensioners. If you do it right you are spot on. Just be sure to rotate the crank at least twice.---
For complete detail on how to replace the belt and other parts.please click the link below:---
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/how-to-replace-timing-belts-on-1200cc.html
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This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
My clutch lever does not
what bike is it on? most have an adjuster by the handlebar, and one the clutch casing actuator arm.
do it from the bottom first and make sure there is a nut either side of the cable grab on the motor itself. and make sure that the handlebar end is wound in first.
I'm trying to change the
I have only changed the belts on my GL1000's. The manual says to remove the radiator but I have found that it is not necessary. With a little bit of knuckle scrapping and some care when removing the four long bolts that hold on the belt covers, you can slide both the bolts and the covers out and replace the belts underneath. If there is just not quite enough clearance you may be able to unbolt the radiator and move it forward just enough to accomplish this with out having to drain it. The pictures you have may be from a 1000, an 1100, or a 1200. The fact is that the timing belts are changed and adjusted the same way on all three models. Just take care when removing the cover mount bolts that you do not damage the radiator. If you are careful you should be able to replace the belts with out all the extra work of draining and removing the radiator. Dealers short cut the radiator removal but charge you for the time anyway. Good Riding.
HISTORY: Here is what happened
Hi, they used points and condensors on the very early gl1000' but your model has electronic ignition and does not use points and condensors, more the pitty in the old days you had points condensors and ignition coils, if you had a problem it was far easyer to trace the fault, but now with pulse generators etc its more difficult to diagnose without diagnostic equiptment, and to expensive to re
My Bike has been covered
If you are not going to work or fix in the engine, just do a oil and filter change, make sure you are using a good recommended quality oil.
This is only if there is not water bodies in the oil, such as the oil does not have some milky liquid flowing in oil when you are changing the oil.
If that the case does your bike use coolant for cooling (use a radiator?), if so you must follow the coolant pipes and find out whether you have any crack anywhere the coolant passes.
As you have not described what kind of bike we are talking about, my answer is just a general suggestion. Cheers. Do not forget to mark thumbs up.
Turn signals not working, hazzerd
Most motorcycles use a "flasher" to operate the signal lights.Older ones used a mechanical type that heared up a bi-metalic strip that flexed, then cooled down and make contact again. usually it made a clicking sound. they are very similar to the auto flasher that you can buy in any auto store. newer ones use an electronic type with transistors that time the operation. The older ones used a lot of current and if the battery was low, then they tended not to fully operate. the newer ones use very little current and operate most of the time if the battery is reasonably charged. The flasher looks like a small can with two or three blade plug ins, that plugs into a position on the wiring harness.
I have a 85 gl
Try this: Slide back the rubber boot that goes between the back of the engine and the swing arm. Do this by slipping the front edge of the boot off of the collar on the back of the engine. Now you can get a screwdriver - or your fingers in there to help hold the end of the u-joint up and align it with the end of the drive shaft. The end of the shaft - and the u-joint - have splines that must match up before they will slide together, requiring that you rotate the drive shaft as you insert it. Be sure to apply grease to the splines before assembly. When you are done, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to carefully re-attach the rubber boot the the back of the engine.
Tip: Assemble the final drive unit to the swing arm, but do not tighten the four nuts until after the rear wheel is in place and the axle nut tightened. This will help ensure proper alignment of the final drive assembly and the splined joint that attaches it to the rear end of the drive shaft. Also, make absolutely certain that grease is applied to the splines in the rear wheel hub where it meets the final drive output splines. Failure to grease this section will cause premature failure of the splines.
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