1986 Honda VT 500 C - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

where is the leak comming from??

steering sec is going to be 83 lbft/ftlbs
and wheel bolts are going to be 95 lbft/ftlbs

Try here... http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?fileid=072111110100097095086084053048048099095039056051095119111114107115104111112095109097110117097108040101110045100101045102114041046112100102

or here... http://www.megaupload.com/?d=M02365DH

Rate me if this helps. Thanks.

https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com
This is a link to American Honda Motors. They should have a download for the owner manual you seek. They had mine. :)

Clean and rebuild the carbs as a first step. Is it a ping, knock, or rattle?

You ill need to take off your left engine cover, remove the flywheel, and replace the starter gear (part#5) and three rollers (part#13). This is your one-way clutch that allows your starter motor to turn the engine over. The gear mating surface has become rough or chattered and is not grabbing properly.Replace these parts and your starter motor will turn the engine over again. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1983-honda-vt500c-shadow/o/m9690#sch421900

The fan is designed by Honda to come on just as the needle touches the red zone, or just slightly before it.But if its not coming on then its problem with fan.It should come On.You can provide 12 volt to fan connections directly by external battery source and see, if fan starts and runs directly.If the fan runs by external 12 volt source then its problem with fan controlling relay under seat.But if fan is not running by external 12 volt direct source then its problem with fan and needs to be replaced.---------- But if fan checked out ok and fan relay looks fine and checked ok, 12 volt by meter, then its problem with thermostat.------ The thermo-switch that operates the fan is on the bottom of the radiator and the thermo unit for the gauge is on the side of the thermostat. The fan does not turn on until the coolant in the bottom of the radiator is up to a certain temperature. The coolant can be hot at the thermostat and much cooler at the bottom of the radiator.

You may want to drain the coolant and look inside the top of the radiator for corrosion or anything restricting the coolant flow. If it looks dirty, take the radiator off and take it to a radiator shop to have the inside cleaned.------------- Once the rad is completely flushed cleaned the coolant has to be refilled.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/

Check the main fuse on the starter solenoid. If it blows everything just shuts down. Follow the positive battery cable from the battery to the starter solenoid and replace the fuse. If that does not fix the problem remove the battery and have it load tested. A simple way to test for a broken cell in a battery (if you do not have a load tester) just jump the two starter solenoid terminals with a piece of wire or a screw driver, if there is not enough power to move the starter you may have a broken connection between the cells in the battery. Then you just need a new battery. My bet is you just need to replace the main fuse.

I would add the following thoughts for consideration. Many things can cause this, some are, from a short driving cycle that doesn't allow the engine to fully warm up, to a faulty fuel pressure regulator, to leaking fuel injector/s or a carburator float bowl being overfilled, to worn engine parts, like piston rings, valve guides, faulty spark plugs resulting in poor fuel burn ect, ect. Basically it's gasoline getting from the top of the engine, into the bottom of the engine, where the oil sump is. Gasoline in the oil isn't good for it, or the engine, as it dilutes the oil & robs it of it's lubricating properties, resulting in accelerated engine wear & bad engine deposits. Best to change the oil & filter right away, review all the listed ideas & have the most likely checked out by a pro you trust. If your bikes mechanical condition is ok, but your driving cycle is short, after changing the oil & filter, try changing your driving cycle, or by taking your bike on a weekly 20 mile interstate round trip, to warm the engine & oil up competely, to evaporate condensation & any gasoline thats found it's way into the crankcase oil sump. Your ride will love you for it & the gas oder in the oil, will likely take a hike!!!! your bike is not good mechanically or u would not be getting fuel in oil. take it to a REPUTABLE mechanic and get it looked at .problem may be small and easy to fix. the longer you wait the worse it will get

the choke is not turning off, or off soon enough. inspect and clean/adjust choke assembly, your carbs may be gummy

I have a 94 magna that had the very same problem. I thought it was a problem with a stopped up carb or gas line but determined the battery connections had worked loose. Tighten the battery connections. Since you are there also check the fluid level in the battery. Only use distilled water to refill the cells NEVER tap water. You can buy distilled water at most grocery stores or WalMart for about a buck a gallon. Hope this helps.

To read the serial number on a Honda PC50 moped, follow these steps: Locate the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): The VIN is a unique code that provides information about your moped. On a Honda PC50, you can find the VIN in the following places: Under the Air Filter Cover: Look on the left-hand side, just above the engine. The VIN should be stamped there. It typically looks like this: PC50 - 1234567. Frame Number: The frame number is another term for the VIN. It's usually located near the air filter body. Decode the VIN: The VIN contains important details about your moped, including the year of manufacture. Here's how to interpret it: The 9th digit of the VIN is a check digit. The 10th digit represents the year code. For example: A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984 F = 1985 G = 1986 H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 1 = 2000 2 = 2001 3 = 2002 Note that if your scooter was manufactured between February 1986 and February 1987, it's likely to be a '87 model; Additional Resources: If you have the full VIN, you can use the NHTSA VIN decoder to get detailed information about your moped. Alternatively, you can call Honda with your VIN, and they will provide you with the necessary information.

Question edited for clarity and add magic word. The Owner's Manual covers basic repairs and is free. https://www.google.com/search?q=honda+anf125+innova+service+and+repair+manual

Honda ANF125 Innova Service and Repair Manual

Google Books https://books.google.com > ... > Repair & Maintenance The aim of this manual is to help readers get the best from their motorcycle. It provides information on routine maintenance and servicing and the tasks are ...

Honda ANF125 Manuals

ManualsLib https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Scooter Manuals and User Guides for Honda ANF125. We have 1 Honda ANF125 manual available for free PDF download: Owner's Manual ...

Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter (2003 - 2012)

Haynes Manuals https://haynes.com > en-gb > anf125-innova-scooter Detailed repair guides and DIY insights for 2003-2012 Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter's maintenance with a Haynes manual. ..

The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.

Question edited for clarity, but no idea what you mean by - "What do I need to do to get the gay? The clutching gauge in again?" You issue is probably that all the clutch plates are glued together. Leaving a bike for 21 years will do that. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Honda+Gold+Wing+1200+stuck+clutch ..

Check the wiring, especially the engine earth lead.

On the bottom of your speedometer on the left side there is 2 buttons press the far left one for a couple of seconds and the light should go on

Question edited for clarity. The RC26 has a few modifications, but nothing that should alter the wiring.

1986-1987 - VFR700F / VFR700F2 (RC26)

The "Tariff Buster"[ 700cc VFR700F was almost identical to the 750cc version, with minor changes to graphics (no 750 on the lower fairing), shorter stroke, different cams, and altered ignition timing. Otherwise the VFR700F2 was mechanically the same as the standard F, but had an upgraded rear shock and fork internals alongside square gauges. Wiring diagrams and manuals https://www.google.com/search?q=1987+honda+vfr+700f+wiring+diagram ..

For a 1999 Honda CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are essential to ensure proper engine assembly and function. When tightening the cylinder head bolts, it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommended torque settings to prevent damage to the engine components. For the CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are typically as follows: 1. **Initial Torque:** 29 Nm (2.9 kgf-m, 22 ft-lbs) 2. **Final Torque:** 64 Nm (6.4 kgf-m, 47 ft-lbs) It's essential to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the specified sequence and in multiple stages, gradually increasing the torque until reaching the final specified torque. The exact tightening sequence can usually be found in the service manual specific to your motorcycle model. When torquing the head bolts, ensure you're using a reliable torque wrench calibrated in the appropriate units (Nm or ft-lbs). Always follow the tightening sequence precisely to ensure even pressure distribution across the cylinder head gasket. Additionally, it's advisable to use new cylinder head bolts if the old ones have been previously tightened or stretched beyond their yield point. This helps maintain proper clamping force and ensures the integrity of the engine assembly. As always, referring to the service manual or consulting a professional mechanic experienced with motorcycle engine assembly can provide additional guidance and ensure the correct torque settings are applied during the cylinder head installation process.