I, also, have a 2008 Road King Classic.
Do you get a check engine light when this happens?
On mine, I DO get a light, and it goes into "limp mode", where the power is VERY restricted.
Turns out (in my case) there's a service bulletin about corrosion on the plug connector where the wiring goes into the throttle body.
On mine, I disconnect/reconnect about 3 times, and that seems to remove (by scrapping) the corrosion, and all is good again.
For a 2008 Touring bike with the ignition switch turned to IGNITION the fuel gauge is connected to +12 volts. Current flows through the gauge and the variable resistor in the fuel gauge sending unit to ground. The sending unit float controls the amount of resistance in the variable resistor. Inoperative gauges may be caused by several different circumstances: the sender or fuel gauge may not properly or sufficiently grounded; there may be a malfunction in the sender or in the fuel gauge; there may be a broken or disconnected wire from the ignition switch to the fuel gauge; there may be corroded connections at the fuel gauge. Test the fuel gauge system by FIRST removing the gauge, THEN ground the fuel gauge sender Y/W wire located at the bottom of the gauge, turn the ignition switch to IGNITION and the fuel gauge must indicate FULL in which case it is functioning correctly in which case set a multimeter to the RXI scale and measure the resistance of the sending unit by placing one probe on (Y/W) and the other probe on the motorcycle ground or bare chassis point as a ground. If the fuel tank is full the reading should be 30-50 ohms while an empty tank should have a 240-260 ohm resistance value and a half full tank will be approximately 125-165 ohms. If a very high resistance or infinity is indicated on the meter, the sender may be "open" or not grounded. Check that the sender and the fuel tank are both grounded by placing one probe of a Multi-Meter on the sender flange and the other probe on the engine crankcase. The meter then must indicate one ohm or less. Replace the sender if one ohm or less was present and if a higher resistance is present, check for a poor connection on the ground wire. If when the gauge did not indicate FULL when the fuel gauge sender Y/W wire was grounded with the ignition switch at IGNITION check the voltage to the (O/W) (+) and (BK) (-) wires of the fuel gauge connector and a correct reading will be equivalent to battery voltage. If battery voltage is not present check for a broken or disconnected wire. Replace gauge if wiring problem is not foun
Raise the rear wheel off the ground and then with a no loss air pump apply more pressure to force any oil down the lines into the shocks, then release all air pressure and press the air line fitting collar in and disconnect the lines. THEN remove the upper shock mounting bolt and lockwasher and flat washer and then remove the lower shock mounting bolt and lockwasher and flat washer and remove the shock absorber assembly from the motorcycle. BUT do not lay it down as the oil will leak out and cannot be replaced so the shock would then be garbage. You could remove the air line fitting and plug the hole with a 1/8 NPT thread plug if the shock is to be retained and stored or etc.
Unbolt the caliper from front forks (2 bolts).
You'll have to move the caliper as far down as the hose will allow to clear the edge of the fender with the caliper to get it off the disc.
Remove the "hair-pin" clip on the one pad bolt, then remove the bolt.
Pop the old pads out of the caliper.
If master cylinder is almost full of brake fluid, siphon some out.
Clean off exposed pistons, then press them back into the caliper.
By hand is preferable, but you might need a "C" clamp to do this.
Install new pads, and reinstall pad pin.
Torque to 75-102 INCH lbs., and install "hair-pin" clip.
Reinstall caliper, and tighten two mounting bolts to 28-38 FOOT lbs.
Because the pistons were pushed back into the caliper (to compensate for the thicker new pads), it'll take several pumps of the brake lever before the pistons move the pads out enough to make contact with the disc.
DO THIS BEFORE RIDING OFF!!!!!!!!
Keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level (don't let it get so low that air is introduced into the system), and top off with DOT 4 brake fluid.
SOLO RIDER
Up to 150 lbs = 0 psi
150 - 200 lbs = 0-10 psi
200 -250 lbs = 5-15 psi
RIDER WITH PASSENGER
Up to 150 lbs = 10-15 psi
Up to 200 lbs = 20-25 psi
MAXIMUM = 20-35 psi
Unbolt the caliper from front forks (2 bolts).
You'll have to move the caliper as far down as the hose will allow to clear the edge of the fender with the caliper to get it off the disc.
Remove the "hair-pin" clip on the one pad bolt, then remove the bolt.
Pop the old pads out of the caliper.
If master cylinder is almost full of brake fluid, siphon some out.
Clean off exposed pistons, then press them back into the caliper.
By hand is preferable, but you might need a "C" clamp to do this.
Install new pads, and reinstall pad pin.
Torque to 75-102 INCH lbs., and install "hair-pin" clip.
Reinstall caliper, and tighten two mounting bolts to 28-38 FOOT lbs.
Because the pistons were pushed back into the caliper (to compensate for the thicker new pads), it'll take several pumps of the brake lever before the pistons move the pads out enough to make contact with the disc.
DO THIS BEFORE RIDING OFF!!!!!!!!
Keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level (don't let it get so low that air is introduced into the system), and top off with DOT 4 brake fluid.
Disconnection of the battery for 30s to 1m usually will clear the computer. If you do this and it still is flashing a code, then you will need to fix this before you can reset. Hope that helps!
I assume you mean it leaks where the cable goes into the transmission cover on the right hand side?
The cable at that end has an o-ring to seal it, and yours might be bad, and needs replacing.
Does it sound like a chain noise, coming from the primary case?
In 2007, Harley changed the primary chain tension adjuster to an "automatic", spring loaded one, that doesn't work very well.
You can bolt in an older manual adjuster, BUT the area that USED to be an inspection/access cover on the outer primary cover is now a solid area, so you'd have to remove the outer primary cover everytime you adjust the primary chain.
There are some aftermarket "automatic" adjusters out on the market.
Do you mean a auto code reader?
If so, I haven't seen an adapter for that.
If you want to use the code reader just to retrieve error codes (DTCs), on your bike you don't even need a reader.
Turn the Ignition switch to the OFF position.
Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position.
Push in the odometer reset button and hold.
Turn on the ignition switch and release the odometer reset button. The process has been completed correctly when the speedometer needle sweeps across the speedometer and all indicator lamps illuminate. The speedometer will also display "DIAG."
Press the odometer reset button once. "PSSPt" will display on the speedometer. Each letter signifies an area of the diagnostics testing, with the current selection flashing. Push the odometer reset button to scroll through the components for testing.
Press and hold the odometer reset button for 5 seconds, then release. Any codes stored will be displayed on the speedometer. If no codes are stored, the speedometer will display "NONE."
Press the odometer reset button again to view additional codes, if any.
Record the codes and refer to your service manual for possible faults or conditions.
Turn off the Ignition switch to exit the diagnostics testing.
