2005 Harley Davidson FXDWG - FXDWGI Dyna Wide Glide - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:1. The Run-Off switch is in the Off position.2. Corroded contacts inside the Run-Off switch need cleaning.3. A faulty wire from the Run-Off switch to the starter button.4. Corroded contacts inside the starter button need cleaning.5. Faulty wire leaving the starter button going to the starter relay.For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.v-twinforum.com/threads/press-starter-button-and-nothing.181511/http://www.mediafire.com/file/6cp9fbatnw1z4di/2005+Harley+Dyna+Service+Manual.pdfhttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/dyna-wide-glide-2005-owners-manual-66390https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom, etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses. Before continuing, connect the test light clamp to the negative post of the battery and touch the point of the test light to the positive post to validate that your test light is functioning properly.If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, your test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short. If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohmmeter set on a low ohm scale of 100 ohms or less. Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any reading or infinity indicates poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/threads/fuse-for-battery-tender.231834/http://www.mediafire.com/file/6cp9fbatnw1z4di/2005+Harley+Dyna+Service+Manual.pdfhttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/dyna-wide-glide-2005-owners-manual-66390https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/63706-pop-back-through-air-cleaner.htmlhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/6cp9fbatnw1z4di/2005+Harley+Dyna+Service+Manual.pdfhttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/dyna-wide-glide-2005-owners-manual-66390https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Duplicate question already answered

. Put the jack under the swingarm shaft. I use a scissor jack. Raise the jack just so that it's snug against the bottom of the shaft.

there is a problem they accidently misplaced and plugged the couplers.try open the mask and look for defaults.

Try this, disconnect the battery for five minutes and let the system re-boot, than hook the battery back up, should work.

What do you mean by pumping to pressure????

The Dyna Wide Glide was not made to be running at speeds of over a 100 mph. It's upright stance and seating position are not conducive for aerodynamics. That's why the 200 mph Japanese bikes are built like they are, they're more aerodynamic. I've been riding Harleys since 1966 and the only bike they make that MIGHT be anywhere near suitable for that speed is the Sportster. The rest of them are called "cruisers" for a reason. Now, the V-Rod sounds like a Harley that you might be interested in if you a bike that is fast and handles good at those speeds. Not trying to be smart or anything, just telling the facts. Apehangers and high speeds are two things that don't exactly complement each other. If you want to go fast, you need a bike that is designed to go fast. It's much safer that way.

Ride Safe
Steve

Right grip will come off when brake perch and switch housing comes off. Left grip is usually glued on and when clutch perch and switch housing is removed it is usually cut off but if a screw driver is worked down inside of the rubber grip and some brake kleen sprayed in between the screwdriver and the grip and the screwdriver is wiggled and worked around the rubber grip will usually come off undamaged.

I believe your upper motor mount is damaged

Your coil could be dead

the ground or the positive wires are not getting a good connection; there may be a break in a wire, or it is a bad connection at the battery-relay-

Do you have your handle bars leaned far forward? If so pull them back slightly and it will change the geometry slightly and fixed my wobble.

P1356 = rear cylinder no combustion

If it's a single click each time, sounding like it's coming from under the seat area, starter relay, $10 part.