20 Most Recent 2005 Harley Davidson FXDWG - FXDWGI Dyna Wide Glide - Page 6 Questions & Answers

What year ???? Check main fuse first

Were the lights working properly and then stopped or was the LED light installed and then did not work or?????????

Take the cover off and see what the level is and as for condition look for color and clsrity but ALL brake fluid is recommended for complete flush and change at least every two years.

test motorcycle battery YouTube

What type of instructions do you need. Just make sure you install the battery with the correct polarity and install the positive side first, the negative side last.

Good luck
Steve

Did you remove the starter gear inside the primary cover? http://www.jhchoppers.com/projects/1997_FXSTC/hot_mock/Primary%20Drive%202.jpg (the gear above the clutch) The gear is larger in diameter that the hole in the bearing that the shaft passes through.

is it a harley ?

What YEAR? Earlier fobs had a button to push, later ones have no button but a RFID chip in them. Different methods to disable with a bad fob.

Your local dealer should be able to give you a part number for this. If you still have a problem, post your VIN number and I will get you the part number.

There is a special tool to remove and install the inner race. You could heat up the old one and pull it off, but the tool is the best way to install the new one. Drag Specialties has them in their catalog.

if bike has fairing remove /start bike and see where leak is coming from , but clean the bike fist all old oil

"sometimes it starts after jiggleing the wiring loom"That right there says you have a shorted/broken wire somewhere in the area that you "jiggle", so get an Ohmmeter and start testing in that area.

Assuming that you have done a compression test and both cylinders have ample compression to run( adverage 150 psi) check that both plugs are actually sparking. If this is a fuel injected model check fuel pressure, check for voltage at both injectors on the common color wire to each. If all is good there you can swap the front injector to the rear(provided they are the same part-most are) and see if the dead cylinder moves with it. If it does the injector is bad.

They may have some info ? diagrams here...check it out...they have a good garage section,,,,,,,, http://www.hdtalking.net/

Well, I don't know if it's got a specific name since I've never seen that piece offered seperately. But, if I had to assign it a name, I'd call it a "nipple". More specifically a "filter nipple" because it is actually a "pipe nipple" that an oil filter screws onto. A pipe nipple is what plumbers and pipe fitters call a short piece of pipe. Some of them have standard threads and others are metric threaded but they're still "pipe nipples". So, there, we've made up a new name for the part. Works for me.

Good Luck
Steve

Wish I could help...Pose this ? at harleytalking.com they have helped me just another place to ask....good luck..

You need two nuts that match the thread on the stud.. you thread the stud in far as you can by hand then the two nuts thread them both on to the stud till just just enough to be securely on the stud. then then oppose thread them so the two nuts lock against each other turn the top nut clock wise to tight stud and tun the bottom nut anti clock wise to undo the stud to remove the two nuts turn them simultaniously in opposite direction to loosen then just undo them off don't feel the need to over tighten the exhaust stud it only needs be nipped in there it will naturally get more torque when you mount the header back on any way - hope this is help to you regards Jamie

According to what my parts book shows, there was not a different mainshaft for the belt drive. All models used the same mainshaft from 1970 to late 1984. Harley offered a kit, 35039-80, that retrofitted the 1970 and up to late '84. I know the 1965 through 1969 is shorter and won't work. Then in 1984, they changed it again leaving off the kick start provisions. They only made three mainshafts so any rotary top transmission should fit your bike as far as I can tell. What is wrong with your transmission? Can it be repaired?

Good Luck
Steve

It sounds like you need a new needle in the carb. The fuel level is regulated by the float which opens and closes the needle in it's seat. If the needle is worn or damaged, it will not completely close. If you just inherited the bike, I would believe that the bike has been sitting up for a while. I'd have a competent mechanic remove the carb and go through it. Clean it out on the inside and put a new needle valve in it. This job is a bit too complicated for me to recommend that an amateur can do it. If you wish to try, I'd purchase a service manual. It's too much for me to type here on this forum. Sorry. Good news is the needle valve only costs about $25.

Ride Safe
Steve

On the older wide glides, you had to remove the seat. There were two bolts between the battery box and the rear fender on the outside. Loosen, but don't remove these two bolts. Back under the seat just inside the frame was a "jack bolt". Turn the bolt Counterclockwise and the battery tray would lower, Clockwise to raise it back up. Once lowered, top cover and outer cover would come off the battery. I hope this helps.

Good Luck
Steve